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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

3738 messages,  Last post on Apr 23, 2013 at 10:59 AM

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What is this discussion about? Mazda Protege, Sedan

Messages Page 256 of 374

#2548 of 3738 Extreme pull to the left by jcnadon

Jun 09, 2005 (3:22 pm)

I recently purchased a used 2001 Mazda Protege ES....the car runs perfect city driving but once taking on the highway with elevated speeds the car pulls hard to the left...it is very hard to keep the car straight. I took it back to the place where I purchased it and they told me it could be the tire pressure, they checked and rotated the tires and said the car was fine, I just drove on the highway again and sure enough the same problem is still occuring. Anyone have any reasoning to this??

#2549 of 3738 Re: Rough idle. [drsnake] by zoom zoom king

Jun 09, 2005 (4:37 pm)

Replying to: drsnake (Jun 09, 2005 9:32 am)
i have the same problem i turn it (CEL) off , and in about an oil change or so it comes back on ( no notice in performance change)

#2550 of 3738 Used car: Pulls to the left [jcnadon] by autonomous

Jun 10, 2005 (4:54 am)

Replying to: jcnadon (Jun 09, 2005 3:22 pm)
recently purchased a used 2001 Mazda Protege ES....on the highway with elevated speeds the car pulls hard to the left...it is very hard to keep the car straight.
 
Sounds like a wheel alignment may be needed. Also, check the state of the tires and look to see if they all match (same size).
 
When you bought the car did you get it inspected at an independent garage? If not, it may still be a good idea for your peace of mind.

#2551 of 3738 Re: 1995 Protege, Automatic, BUCKING IN FIRST GEA [joe390] by lifeisrich1

Jun 11, 2005 (3:08 pm)

Replying to: joe390 (Jun 07, 2005 8:06 am)
Take a peek at your motor mounts. I had some "bucking-like" symptoms on my 91 Maz Prot LX in first gear - found bad motor mount on front (bet engine and radiator) and on top right. Ended up replacing all four of them and the Protege is now a little sweetheart.

#2553 of 3738 Re: Extreme pull to the left [jcnadon] by lifeisrich1

Jun 11, 2005 (3:35 pm)

Replying to: jcnadon (Jun 09, 2005 3:22 pm)
Sometimes in a tire a belt can start to separate internally and it is hard to see but can cause a pull. Swap the two tires on the same axel and if the pull follows the tire to the other side, replace that tire. Good luck!

#2554 of 3738 Re: Replacement Muffler [jrdwyer] by lifeisrich1

Jun 11, 2005 (5:15 pm)

Replying to: jrdwyer (May 03, 2005 7:54 pm)
You may have solved your May 3 post by now, but for the future, muffler holes can be repaired with fiberglass resin and matting. Epoxy would work as well but with fiberglass it is easier to cover a very large area. Clean the muffler surface a round the holes, paint on resin with two or three inches extra around the hole, lay on two or three precut pieces of mat and paint on a little extra resin until the mat is soaked through. I've used this repair a number of times - the fiberglass does not rust and just lasts forever. This repair is less successful if the muffler is close to the engine because of heat. When the muffler is toward the rear of the tail pipe, it works well. Good luck!
Rich

#2555 of 3738 Re: Extreme pull to the left [jcnadon] by lifeisrich1 by capriracer

Jun 12, 2005 (4:36 am)

FYI - As a general rule separated tires don't pull, they vibrate. However a tire can be the source of a pull and frequently the wear pattern is the true cause.
 
Hope this helps.

#2556 of 3738 Re: Replacement Muffler [lifeisrich1] by jrdwyer

Jun 12, 2005 (10:13 am)

Replying to: lifeisrich1 (Jun 11, 2005 5:15 pm)
Thanks for the idea. I have used fiberglass matt and resin in the past for fiberglass boats, but never thought of using it on metal. I suppose this only works for small holes or a backer plate is necessary. That was our experience with boats.
 
The muffler flange was too rusted out for repairs. A bad design, in my opinion. The new Bosal muffler I installed was easy to do and works well and should last longer due to a better flange.
Joe

#2557 of 3738 PCM maybe? by urcrknmeup

Jun 12, 2005 (10:21 am)

Have a '91 Protege ... just wouldn't start one day. Fuel pump runs when you jump the diagnostic port, EFI and circuit opening/fuel pump relays work and Ohm out correctly. Started hoping it was the timing belt but looks good and turns the camshaft fine. Have compression and spark (although suspiciously weak looking spark ... have new wires, coil, cap and rotor and plugs). Only thing I found which puzzles me is that at the connector port under the seat to the pump, I only get about 6.5 volts with the key on. It should be full battery voltage. I'm not getting any initial prime pulse or fuel pump noise while cranking .. only during the diagnostic jump. I'm about ready to try to start it while jumped just to see if it will start at all. Could this be the PCM module? I'm about to do a fuel pressure test but this has me questioning the fuel pump operation.

Messages Page 256 of 374

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