Last post on Sep 19, 2013 at 3:03 AM
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Mazda Protege, Sedan
#2361 of 3742 99 mazda protege wont start
Mar 14, 2005 (9:43 pm)
revamp on message
i have a 1999 mazda protege 68k just stopped running this week turns over has weak to no spark replaced wires and plugs. ordered and tried new ignition coils still didnt work. wondering if it could be the timing belt and if the best way to check timing belt was to remove valve cover. had check engine codes pulled they said ignition or misfire wondered if that could be caused by timing belt any info would be great
#2362 of 3742 Re: 1.6 Spark Plugs and Wires [kaiserhead2]
Mar 15, 2005 (7:50 am)
i have a 1999 1.6L protege and on mine you have to remove the ignition coils which are mounted on top of the valve cover to gain access to the spark plugs. kinda a pain just to change plugs
#2363 of 3742 Plugs, vibration in steering column.
Mar 17, 2005 (11:27 am)
Yeah, but putting the coil over the plugs is a lot easier than pushing the boot over the plugs. Just don't lose any screws.
I get a little vibration through the steering wheel column of my '99LX (AT-equipped). It's definitely related to the transmission as it's a lot less when I put it into neutral or park. It was really bad after they serviced the AT on my '89 323LX (adjusted bands to resolve a hard 1->2 shift). Not sure where it'd be, but I suspect the torque converter, or the alignment between the transmission and the torque converter.
#2364 of 3742 Re: Plugs, vibration in steering column. [mazdafun]
Mar 17, 2005 (3:23 pm)
Don't forget that A, idle speed is usually slightly lower when the trans is in gear, and B when in gear, the engine/transaxle torques and may show up a defective mount.
Mar 17, 2005 (5:30 pm)
I asked a similar question earlier but no one could help.
The car: ’93 Mazda Protégé, 5 spd, 1.8l sohc w/ 91K+
The Problem: Car stalls under the following conditions only
1. AC must be on
2. Air temp must be above 70
3. Car is at normal temp (after 10 min. of driving)
4. Throttle is quickly closed at RPM >2500
5. Clutch pedal is completely depressed
6. Car is in gear
This happens while driving when approaching as stop sign for example. I step on the clutch while simultaneously releasing the gas pedal. The rpms drop quickly to zero. The car will start instantly by letting up on the clutch or using the starter.
This NEVER happens if the AC is off, or the air temp is 70 or less, or the car is still warming-up, or the engine speed to begin w/ is less than 2500 rpm or if I slide the shifter into neutral.
The process can be simulated in the driveway as follows:
With the car warmed up, AC on, clutch pedal on the floor, tranny in any drive gear if I rev the engine above 2500 RPM and quickly let up on the gas the car will immediately die or drop down to about 200 rpm and sputter back to about 750.
With the car in NEUTRAL and clutch in any position the rpm will quickly drop to 1100 plateau and then drop slowly to 750. The whole process while in neutral is as smooth as glass.
The computer gets input from a neutral switch on the tranny. When in neutral, this switch is closed. If I unplug the switch and tape a jumper onto the end of the wire I have no problem and the car drives fine.
On this car the throttle position switch only tells the computer two throttle positions, wide open or fully closed. If I unplug the TPS, my problem goes away. The switch is adjusted correctly and functions fine. I checked with feeler gauges and ohmmeter.
The dashpot seems to function fine and I extended the rod all the way, but that did not help. It does appear to slow the throttle closing.
The engine does get a slight boost when the AC is switched on. It goes from about 700 to 750 per the tach in the dash.
I checked the plugs, the timing and the fuel pressure. The air flow meter checked out ok too.
While checking the timing I noticed that the idle is set as low as it can go but is as per spec. The air bypass screw is turned in all the way.
The idle control valve has a mechanical feature that closes slightly as the coolant flows through and warms up. With the electrical connector unplugged and starting from a cold engine the idle may drop from 1200 to 1100 rpm once the engine is at operating temperature. When I plug in the electrical connector the idle drops back to 700 rpm. I wonder if the mechanical portion is not closing enough. Such a small drop (100 rpm) seems hardly worth having.
Why does the car die in the above conditions?
Why does unplugging the TPS or jumpering the neutral swith so the computer thinks the car is always in neutral or never has a closed throttle help?
Thanks for helping.
#2366 of 3742 CHECK ENGINE LIGHT 99 PROTEGE
Mar 18, 2005 (11:39 am)
My 99 Mazda Protege has 40 thousand miles on it. About a month ago, the check engine light came on (steady, not blinking) under normal around-town driving conditions. A mechanic and I looked at it, ran a diagnostic. The code, if I remember correctly, was something like 1401 ... or 1412 ... anyway, the translation as told by autozone clerks was an oxygen-rich system. We all reset the computer and the light stayed off for about a week and a half before popping back on under normal driving conditions once again. I have noticed a rougher idle as well as a slight hesitation during high speeds. Any ideas? I think it may be a mass air flow sensor, but it could also be a clogged EGR valve -- so I'm not sure. How do I check? Or do the codes give it away?
#2367 of 3742 Re: 1.6 Spark Plugs and Wires [kaiserhead2]
Mar 18, 2005 (6:45 pm)
I have 70,000 miles on my 2000 Protege and I have a bad ignition coil. I was considering changing them myself and I took a look at the engine today. The other two plugs are indeed under the ignition coils. It looks like an easy job. Is it hard to change spark plugs, don't you have to measure the tips or whatever?
#2368 of 3742 Re: CHECK ENGINE LIGHT 99 PROTEGE [mazdarati]
Mar 19, 2005 (8:10 am)
hey!! there is a recall on the mass air flow sensors in the 99 proteges so you should go and get it fixed and it shouldnt cost u anything (I think) since it is a recall. I have a 99 pro too I have not got mine fixed yet, but I havent really seen any symptoms like u have but i will probably call my local mazda dealer and set up an appt time
Mar 19, 2005 (11:06 am)
Have you tried a magnet on a rod?
#2370 of 3742 various drivability probems
Mar 19, 2005 (11:07 am)
Do folks use Techron regularly? I think it is worth it to keep injectors clean.