Last post on Sep 19, 2013 at 3:03 AM
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Mazda Protege, Sedan
#2305 of 3742 Mazda Protege loud squeaking problem
Jan 25, 2005 (9:21 am)
I have a Mazda protege 1998. I bought it when it had 40 K on it. Following are the things I took care of when my vehicle was close to 45 K. I changed the transmission fluid and the tires. At around 58 K I got the timing belt changed and other associated repairs. Around 63K the car started to make a squeaking noise. The mechanic said that I had worn out belts. He changed the belts (frankly I dont know which ones) and the water pump. He said the pump change goes with the belt change. Anyway, the car worked fine after that but at around 65 K the squeaking started again. Progressively it has gotten louder and louder.
Following are the symptoms
(1)Squeaking starts as soon as the car is on.
(2)Increase in acceleration is causing more squeaking.
(3)The squeaking is for the first 5 minutes only. After that my car runs like a real Mazda.
(4)Squeaking is usually during cold weather.
(5)Rainy days and an unusual warm winter day results in minimal or no squeaking.
This may not be associated with squeaking but my car is idling very rough when in gear. The entire car vibrates when I idle in gear. Moving to neutral quietens the vibration considerably.
Can someone suggest what repairs need to be done and an approximation of how much it will cost.
I am a still a student. Looking for minimal financial hit
#2306 of 3742 Power steering squeal.
Jan 25, 2005 (11:09 am)
Tigthen your accessory belt that turns the power steering pump (check your manual). It sounds loose. There's also a spray sometimes called "belt dressing" that temporarily removes the squeal by increasing the friction between your belt and the pulleys, but I'd still make sure you have enough tension in your accessory belts.
#2307 of 3742 Same goes for the water pump belt.
Jan 25, 2005 (11:10 am)
#2308 of 3742 Grinding noise on brake.
Jan 25, 2005 (11:15 am)
Make sure your caliper's piston is able to move freely. Sounds like it may be sticking.
Also check the flatness of your rotors. If they're warped, they push the piston back, which: 1) prevents the brake pads from keeping the rotor surfaces clean through constant slight contact (which can cause the grinding noise as surface corrosion and contamination accumlate on the rotor) 2) increases the distance the piston needs to travel to a) touch the inner rotor surface and b) pull the caliper to touch the outer pad against the outer rotor surface.
Also, bleed your brake lines to make sure you don't have air in them. Any air in them will make your brakes feel weak and spongy. Afterwards, make sure the bleed screws/valves are shut completely.
#2309 of 3742 NO OBDII
Jan 27, 2005 (7:24 pm)
I recently moved to Georgia and had an emissions inspection for my 2000 Protege ES. The OBDII scanner cannot communicate with my car. I took the car to the dealer and their diagnostic equipment could not communicate either. The car is running great, but the dealer wants to replace the ECU ($1,200) to solve the problem. Does anyone know what else could cause the communication failure? It seems unlikely that its the ECU since their is no CEL and no other symptoms.
#2310 of 3742 Windshield Dings and Cracks
Jan 31, 2005 (3:23 pm)
I have had my car for just over a year and within the last several months anything that hits my windshield causes dings or cracks. Is anyone else having this problem? 2003 Protege ES
#2312 of 3742 94 Protege occasional stall
Feb 01, 2005 (10:27 am)
Hello; my car check engine light goes on as soon as engine warms up a bit. After a while, the idle gets rough, and the car sometimes stalls. When stalled under those conditions, I have to wait 25 minutes for the car to cool and then it will restart. Have replaced rotor, distributor cap, plugs, PCV valve. The car is running fine otherwise, does not use any oil, and does not overheat under any condition. No gasoline smell either. Any suggestion ? Thank you
Feb 02, 2005 (8:50 pm)
Yep, it sounds like slipping belt squeal.