Last post on Sep 19, 2013 at 3:03 AM
You are in the Mazda Protege
What is this discussion about?
Mazda Protege, Sedan
Mar 12, 2004 (12:18 pm)
Yeah, like I said, the clutch has no problems once it's "warmed up" (for lack of a better term). So I highly doubt it's the clutch disc itself, since (a) it only happens on cold mornings for a few starts, (b) it's been doing this since the car was new, and (c) I've been driving manuals since 1985 and know the do's and don't's of clutch operation. Plus, I've never replaced a clutch, and I drove my last vehicle (1994 Mazda B2300) 117,000 miles on its first one. My last Protege, a '92, was traded on the truck at 83,000 miles and it also was on its original clutch.
After about another 10 minutes I'll be gone until Tuesday morning. I'll anxiously await reading the results of your investigation!
Mar 12, 2004 (12:59 pm)
there is repair information on the mazda website that refers to 99-03 proteges (1.8's & 2.0's) in which drivers may experience clutch chatter or judder during cold operation. (dont know what judder is exactly). The fix is to replace the clutch cover, disc, and flywheel. There is no date on the document to verify when it was released. this is NOT a TSB.
#2061 of 3742 94 protege DX problem
Mar 12, 2004 (9:20 pm)
thank you for your reply. I was out of town and didn't see it until today.
The auto shop replaced the plug wires(before I post here) but the problem still existed. The car stalls after making a right turn. I did some investigations online(I know very little of car) and looked like it's probably caused by a bad coil. What do you think of it? Thanks.
My original post:
Report from Firestone on my 94 protege DX:
Ignition breaking down as engine heats up. suggest the following parts in this order:
2. distributor assembly
The onboard computer will not communicate with the diagnostic scanners.
Is it still repairable?
Mar 14, 2004 (9:38 am)
basically the auto shop wants to replace almost every part in the ignition system. I find it hard to believe it needs a coil, distributor and pcm. Perhaps their diagnostic equipment is not designed to adapt to your particular car. Early 90's imports had a lot of unique systems as far as diagnostics were concerned. Unlike today, you can retrieve codes from any newer car with the same single piece of equipment. My advice, is to take it to the dealer (keep your shirts on dealer bashers) and at least have it diagnosed there. Then you can take it to joe schmoe's garage and have the parts put in there if you like. One word of caution, aftermarket distributors can sometimes be faulty right out of the box. (The same goes for alternators.) Be sure that there is a genuine mazda cap and rotor on the car as well. Cheap aftermarket parts can breakdown the ignition system easily.
#2063 of 3742 Strut tower bar help needed
Mar 14, 2004 (12:05 pm)
Purchased the Mazda strut tower bar kit from Rosenthal Mazda and I need assistance with problem.
Have 2003 Protege LX with cruise so the bar for a Protege with cruise was ordered and received.
Problem is the replacement cruise bracket that was received appears to be the exact same bracket that is already on the car and the cruise actuator will not clear.
Bracket received is pn BJ0F-66-3BYB. Part number referenced on the instructions in section 4A is pn BJ0F-66-3AY. I assume I r'cvd the wrong bracket in the kit. Calling Rosenthal on Monday to attempt to resolve this. Any help/advice is appreciated.
#2064 of 3742 Strut tower bar update
Mar 15, 2004 (7:01 am)
I received a quick response from Rosenthal. Told that BN5W-66-3B2 is the part that I should have received and it is being ordered and sent to me. Hopefully it is the solution to the fitment issues.
Odd that it is a different part number from the Mazda install intructions.
#2067 of 3742 Okie-dokie, here's the rub!
Mar 16, 2004 (6:12 am)
Well, I got past the first hurdle with my dealership. The tough one. The one where the service manager actually admits something's up.
He told me basically what rotarykid did ... that there is a TSB for an "updated" clutch disc, pressure plate, cover and flywheel.
No recall, just a TSB. And, as we all know, TSBs do not mean "freebies" necessarily.
My service manager pointed out that my car is WAYYY out of warranty (the warranty that covers the clutch, that is ... 1 year/12,000 miles). Yes, it is. I passed 72,000 miles yesterday. Now, I did comment to my service writer that my clutch slippped WAYYYY back when, like when the car was new, but the service writer back then made some kind of passing remark like "Oh, they all do that," and I, having owned a '92 that did it too, merely accepted that answer. So the "complaint" never made it to paper.
All that said, here's the deal. The service manager told me that the parts I have on the car right now are not going to wear out any quicker than the new stuff -- i.e. the TSB solves the cold-takeoff chatter only; my current clutch isn't substandard as far as longevity is concerned. HOWEVER -- the current clutch does have 72K of wear on it (er, should I say, "off it").
So ... he's made me a deal, and since I am planning on keeping the car another year or two at least, it might be a deal I can't refuse. He has offered to install the "updated" clutch disc, pressure plate, cover and flywheel for the cost of labor only -- and his "internal" labor rate at that -- of $303. Mazda would eat the $455 in parts.
If I don't get this job done, my present clutch could last me another 30,000 miles, or not. Clutches are very sensitive to how they're treated, and I treat my clutches well. I've never had to replace a clutch, and my last vehicle -- a Mazda pickup with a manual tranny -- still had its original clutch when I traded it for the Protege at 114,000 miles.
But whenever my clutch DOES wear out, I'm looking at a $600-$700 job if I go through the dealership -- and correct me if I'm wrong, but just replacing a worn-out clutch doesn't give you all the new stuff Mazda's installing in this TSB. Taking my SM up on this offer would give me a new clutch and the other parts, and no more clutch worries ever, for half the price.
Do I feel slighted at all? Yes, I do. But am I also a resident of the Real World and know when to stop whining and accept life's little poo-poos? Yep.
Think I'll take Mazda up on their offer. Compared to not pursuing it at all, this will save me some big bucks come clutch time.
And Raymond -- you've got far fewer miles on yours, right?
Time to press the issue!
P.S. I'm still hesitating to call this a "problem," Raymond. Since the chatter has never affected my ability to use the car in any way, I'd be more apt to call it an "annoyance" like a rattle. Let's not get into wordplay, OK? I've still had a very reliable car for 72,000 miles. And now I'm getting a brand-new, updated clutch for half price. This looks like a win-win since I got a pretty good life out of the original clutch already!
#2068 of 3742 Protege Clutches
Mar 16, 2004 (7:14 am)
Just to chime in, my '95 Protege LX 1.5L with its original clutch is still going strong at 167K miles. It does shift a little rough when cold, but after a mile or so it's smooth. I found that it performs better in cold weather with full synthetic gear oil instead of standard gear oil. At the moment I'm using Mobil One, but have used other synthetic brands with success. And though I am easy on the clutch in normal driving, I also frequently pull a 4x8 utility trailer with a 400 lb ATV on board.
I like the gearing and feel of the Protege manual tranny and clutch better than that of my previous '92 Honda Civic. The Civic hydraulic clutch felt overly light when disengaging. Also, the lower gearing of the Protege over the Civic sure helps when pulling a trailer up a hill. Yesterday I was climbing a steep gravel road and needed 1st gear and 4-5K RPMs to make it up. The old Protege pulls strong and still gives me 28-30 mpg with the trailer and ATV behind.