Last post on Sep 19, 2013 at 3:03 AM
You are in the Mazda Protege
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Mazda Protege, Sedan
Sep 03, 2003 (7:35 pm)
My 1995 Protege LX 5 spd. with 160K miles is making a funny noise. Sort of a pop type sound. I have driven it at slow speeds with the windows down and when I turn the wheel I notice the pops occuring every turn or two of the tires. I have also noticed the noise right as I come to a stop at lights. Now this car has been making the typical clicking noise from a CV joint since 70K miles, but the boots are all fine so I just ignored it. Is this more noticable pop or click sound telling me the end is near for one or both of my CV joints? And are aftermarket CV joints better or worse than Mazda CV joints. Thanks.
#1777 of 3742 Water Leak into Passenger floorboard
Sep 04, 2003 (10:47 am)
I have a lot of water sitting in my passenger side floorboard and believe it is caused by a clogged AC drain line or something similar. The water just sits in the car(ie its not draining back out of the car) and it hasn't rained in several days yet the water keeps coming back so I ruled out the typical door/windshield/trunk leaks.
Does anybody know how to check the AC drain hose and how its leaking back inside even if it is clogged? This is for a 1999 Protege ES 5 speed.
Sep 04, 2003 (10:51 pm)
Has anyone changed a door lock cylinder ['99 pro es]? The weather seal broke off and lodged in the tumbler assembly.
Sep 05, 2003 (1:33 am)
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the inner door panel and remove the inner door screening.
If the locks are power, disconnect the power lock controller from the lock assembly.
Remove the door lock mounting screws and disconnect the linkage. Remove the lock assembly from the door.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten the door lock mounting screw(s) to 37-55 inch lbs. (4.2-6.2 Nm).
Sep 05, 2003 (3:25 am)
I don't have my Protege in front of me right now (LOL) but I do know that the drain line comes out of the firewall just above where the passenger's toes would be. I believe you can reach up under the glovebox against the firewall and find the rubber tube. The tube in my 1992 LX got clogged after a couple of years, and I was able to fix it simply by grabbing it and giving it a good squeeze along the length of it that I could reach. This broke up all the nasty sludge that had accumulated in it and allowed it to drain. You probably can remove it yourself if you've got some patience and a flashlight. Let us know if you figure it out!
2002 Protege5 (wife)
#1781 of 3742 What Meade said.
Sep 05, 2003 (3:36 am)
If you have a vacuum cleaner with a hose, you can use some duct tape to get a good enough seal to try to suck out the grunge. You could also get the micro vacuum attachments (for cleaning out the insides of computers and such) with adapters to fit most household vacuum hoses. I've got a little can vac that can also blow (attach the hose to the exhaust), which I do to the hole in the firewall. There's a little tube out there that bends downwards.
Sep 05, 2003 (8:37 am)
I did it on my 626. Pretty much what alcan describes. I also think the drum is held by a convoluted clip around it (i.e., there is a bracket bolted to the door, and the clip holds the drum to the bracket). Make sure to note the position/direction of the clip before you take it apart. I didn't and ended up doing the job twice. And although easy, you have to work your tools around the holes in the door frame, and it's a pain in the neck. The drum has a metal cap that slides off, and after that the spring and remains of the flap will fly out. Try to figure out the orientation of the spring also (again, 1/2 an hour to find the damned, microscopic, spring in the grass, plus 1/2 an hour of trial an error in my case...).
It took me 2 hours in a damp, cold, windy day. I also used a Protege flap instead of the plastic one on the 626. They sell you the flap for the Protege ($1.5), but only the whole drum for the 626 ($50, plus re-keying...).
Hope this helps,
Sep 05, 2003 (12:19 pm)
Thanks for the tips. I'll see if I can get the broken flap out. A buck and a half sounds better than $50
#1784 of 3742 Clogged AC drain line Followup
Sep 05, 2003 (6:12 pm)
I dropped the glove compartment and looked where you indicated and it appears that the drain tube is "integrated" into the Cooling unit and thus I can't squeeze the tube or do anything from the inside to clear the clog... I was able to verify that this does appear to be the problem though because with the glove box pulled it was really apparent that the water is leaking into the absorbent liner under the carpetting. The liner was soaked and because the carpet is rubber on the bottom you don't notice the water at all until it builds up enough to start seeping out of carpet slits that are next to the underseat heating ducts. Unfortunately by that time you have around an inch of water sitting in your floor pan.
I then started searching for the drain tube from the engine side and am able to see it(it is probably a 1/2" diameter rubber tube that only sticks out of the firewall about 1/2"). My problem now is to figure out how to reach it. I can't get my arms down to it from above so will probably try to either jack it up and see if its reachable from the bottom or rig some type of extension on my shop vac and thread it down to the drain pipe.
Will let you know if I successfully unclog it.
Thanks for all the help!
#1785 of 3742 Ckracing noise
Sep 06, 2003 (1:33 pm)
1+ month sometimes I have on my Pro/2000 cracking sound while turning stering weel from left to strieght position on low speed. Techn from dealer drove the car but didn't hear. They checked the car and found bearing failure. Replaced the bearing ($216) but nothing is changed. Is anybody experienced such problem?