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Mazda Protege, Sedan
#1130 of 3742 1998 MAZDA Protege A/C problem
Jul 08, 2002 (6:36 am)
I have a 1998 Protege with an A/C problem... On 6/28, I left my Protege at the airport L/T parking lot in Charlotte, NC. When I left, the A/C was working. When I got back, it started acting up. Here are the symptoms: A/C will work for 10-30 minutes and then quit. Or the A/C will not work at all. Have had the freon checked, it is fine. Compressor appears to be running, just no cold air. No strange smells from the a/c, just not working. Any ideas?
Jul 08, 2002 (9:00 am)
Here's a post that addresses the "death rattle". It's post 12999 from the Protege forum and was done by Protegefan.
"Here is a post from another forum I thought would be handy for all to see:
2.0L Engine Noise
This is what Mazda has to say about it, I think we should push them to come up with a fix faster, come on it has been a problem since the middle of 2000! What do you think? I would like someone to explain the jargon that they use VTCS plates? what are there function? What does ECT stand for and what is its function? Also they use the term "believed" to be the problem which means they are not sure or are trying to limit their responsability!
The dealer noted the noise and gave me a bulliten from Mazda.
Category: B Piston Engine
Repair Reference # 3562
Subject: 2.0L Engine noise with cold coolant temp
ALL 2.0L between 2001-2002 are affected
Customer may experience an engine rattle under light to moderate acceleration with engine coolant temps below 149 deg F and engine rpm's between 1500 to 2500.
Confirm noise only occurs within the VTCS ( Variable Tumble Control System) operation "valve closed" period (when ECT is below 149 deg F)
This noise is currently believed to be the result of the timing between VTCS plates "opening", and the ignition spark advanc command. This is an operating characteristic of this engine and no repair attempts should be made. Although the noise is present only during cold start up and disappears once the engine coolant reaches 149 degrees F, Mazda realizes that it is an annyance to some customers and its engineers are investigating possible countermeasures in an effort to address customer satisfaction.
Sounds like they are trying to get away from a recall and a problem that will or will not (they don't know)cause damage during warranty!
#1132 of 3742 death rattle - thanks Ron!
Jul 08, 2002 (9:12 am)
An operating characteristic, eh? A totally benign operating characteristic? Let's hope so.
I could definitely see it being pitched as such even if it isn't in attempt to avoid a recall, but I guess I'm pessimistic about such things.
Jul 08, 2002 (10:27 am)
I'll tell you what I do because I don't trust Mazda at all. It does only happen when the car is cold. I start the car and let it run about 1 minute. Then I shift gears at barely above 1500. I'm lucky in that by the time I reach the main road from my neighborhood, I've gone about 2 miles, so it's pretty much up to a warm enough level that there's no noise.
Here's why I don't trust Mazda. I bought my wife's MPV in 2001. It was a 200 model. The thing had a heck of a time starting up. It was the same warm or cold. You'd turn it over once or maybe 6 times to start it. I thought the problem was a leaking pressure regulator. No. Turns out Mazda said they were aware of the problem and were working on "counter-measures". Nice, suddenly Mazda uses Black Ops lingo! We had the car for moths before they installed the counter-measures. Now it's usually 1-3 times to start it. SO, they introduced the car to market knowing there wa a problem and it took over a year to arrive at a "fix" that still does not work.
Don't tell me for a second that Mazda was not aware of the death rattle noise and a potential problem. The bottom line is that after calculating customer satisfaction v. cost, they were ab;e to take the "we don't care" approach. I'm not aware of any other engine making this noise.
#1134 of 3742 '92 with Cooling Problems
Jul 09, 2002 (5:52 am)
I have a 1992 LX with the DOHC 1.8 engine, 158,100 miles. The other day I noticed that my temperature gauge was climbing considerably higher than normal (it's always been rock solid in the lower middle of the gauge once warmed up). The condition is worse with the A/C on.
I checked a couple of things...
1) Secondary cooling fan (in front of the radiator and condensor) is not running, when the temperature climbs or the A/C cycles.
2) I pulled the fuse from the on-the-hood block for the cooling fan and checked it with an ohm meter...fuse is good.
3) Coolant level and mix is good.
4) Primary cooling fan is running.
I'm thinking it's probably one of the following:
1) thermo sensor is bad (but the primary fan is running).
2) secondary fan motor is bad (how do I check this?)
What activates the secondary cooling fan when the a/c goes on? Is it a separate sensor or some other connection?
Can someone direct me to where the thermo-sensor is on this car? Should it register no resistance when the engine is hot?
Any suggestions would be appreciated. TIA.
#1135 of 3742 Check/replace thermostat in cooling system.
Jul 09, 2002 (6:02 am)
To check the fan's function, you need to hook it up to a power source. I think it runs on 12V DC.
The thermostat is a heat-actuated valve that constricts/opens coolant flow. Typically, this part is replaced when you replace the coolant. If it doesn't work properly, coolant flow is restricted, allowing the coolant to overheat.
#1136 of 3742 #1118 Mazdafun - Cooling
Jul 09, 2002 (7:49 am)
I ruled out the thermostat, since I can see the coolant start to circulate in the radiator (with the cap off) when the thermostat opens.
It's really the lack of the secondary cooling fan running that's the problem. I just don't know where the sensor is that makes it run.
Good suggestion, though, on just running it off the 12v source to see if it's functioning. I'll try that this evening. I'm going to forecast that it will run fine. I'm still thinking it's the sensor. The primary fan runs fine, though.
Jul 10, 2002 (9:14 am)
There is no sensor for the secondary fan. It runs when the compressor cycles on. It's either a relay, wire or the fan motor itself.
#1138 of 3742 Severe Engine Vibrations
Jul 11, 2002 (1:35 am)
I just purchased a brand new 2002 Mazda Protégé LX. The car only has 1,500 miles on it. The problem I’m having with the Protégé is this. I am experiencing severe engine vibrations when I drive the car on the freeway. The vibration is so bad that my feet feel numb and tingly after driving the car.
Does my Protégé have a defective engine or a broken engine mount?
Or is the engine vibrations I’m experiencing normal for the Protégé?
Is there a fix for this problem?
Jul 11, 2002 (4:19 am)
Is the transmission auto or manual?
Is it more related to engine speed (RPM) or road speed (mph)?
Can you get the same vibration if you rev the engine in neutral?
If it's engine-speed related, it's probably bad or missing engine mounts. You might also want to check your engine for proper operation (not misfiring or prematurely firing, spark plugs are firing in the correct sequence or not firing etc.). The engine doesn't have any counterbalances to smooth it out. It is what it is. If it's shaking too much, there's something wrong.
If it's speed-related, you need to check:
1) Wheel balance.
2) Wheel roundness (check the tire and the wheel).
4) Strut and spring function.
5) Other suspension components.