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Sedans Mazda Protege Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair
3580 messages, Last post on Nov 07, 2009 at 3:57 PM
You are in the Mazda Protege Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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97 protoge', 48+K miles. I've had it for two months and have recently noticed a groaning, scraping sound while braking slightly or during slow turns while not applying the brake. Sound is not consistent. Manual mentions brake pad indicators making a screeching sound when the pads are worn...has anyone experienced this groaning, scraping sound? It sounds just like something is dragging from underneath and scraping the road. I am taking it in this week to be evaluated. Can someone give me an idea of what a brake pad replacement will run? Do the dealership service centers indeed charge at least 10% more? Is it worth it for a Mazda authorized service center to do the work or does it really matter with a job like replacing brake pads? Thank you. |
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I am copying and reposting the following from a similar topic: #0 of 0: (wyldebill) Tue 13 Jun '00 (08:22 AM) this car has a hole the size of the grandcanyon at low speed, around 1500rpm? it literally pitches forward before shifting up. the shifts themselves feel fine, actually pretty tight. it's the damn pause before the first shift thats annoying me as well as the timing of it. it's not uncommon for this car to shift midway around a corner (90 degree). also the car doesn't seem to accellerate until the rpms are above 2500-3000rpm. i mean u put the accellerator to the floor and it's this constant speed until about 2500rpm, then it starts to pick up. is that right? i've had honda civics and chev cavaliers that accelerated harder. bringing it back to dealer (my salesman has since disappeared..figure that one out) since it is a pre-certified mazda. curious if anyone has anything similar to offer. Does anyone have any suggestions for wyldebill? Pat Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference |
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... my '92 Protege LX automatic did exactly the same thing you're talking about, and I presume you've got a '99 or '00. When I asked my Mazda technician about it way back then, he said it was operating as designed. He further explained that it's designed that way to shift more efficiently, when all of the clutch packs in the transmission are synchronized. That might be a lot of technical jargon (or even bull crap), but I do know this: I never had a problem with the transmission. My .02, FYI. MD |
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Just noticed your title said you had a '98. Sorry 'bout that! MD |
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| Took it in to dealer service center..whoever did the last brake pad replacement only replaced one side and they removed the brake pad indicator so I was not aware that the pad needed replacing (I've only had the car two months). Of course, rotor was damaged badly and that was why it was making that awful scraping groaning sound. Rotor replacement and pad replacement and turning of remaining good rotor cost me 300..parts and labor. Check out those used cars immediately after purchasing, especially if the used dealers offer a 30 day warranty (which ours did but husband declined to have car mechanically inspected). | |
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Wow, jolou, that's too bad. Sorry that happened to you. Thanks for the update. Pat Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference |
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i have a 97' protege DX, having similar problems as jolou has, hope experts here can give me some suggestions: when braking, right before coming to a full stop, i can hear some "rubbing" noise, seems the pad is runnbing against sth. more annoyingly, after coming to a full stop (e.g. in front of redlight), the some vibrating noise is heard from the hood, seems coming from engine. I took the car to a Mazda dealership, they checked , saying my braking pads are fine, it is engine that is running rough because carbon built-up in engine as a result of not completing burning gas (i have only 22k on it, they suggested that is because i didn't drive much.) Believing what they said, i went ahead to have them do the cleaning for a whopping $200. Got the car back yesterday, found out the 2 problems are the same: 1. brake still makes that noise; 2. the engine vibrating noise is even louder and more evident. I will bring back the car to the shop to argue with them. Can some one give me more suggestions on this case? FYI: it is a 97' protege, 1.5 liter engine, for the first 2 years i only drove it a few miles everyday (to the metro station) on weekdays, thus only 22k miles on it. Regularly maintained/oil change, etc. |
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No it wasn't carbon deposits. Carbon deposits cause an engine to ping or knock under load, note this does not affect idle at all. Modern anti-knock sensors retard the engine timing so no knocking is heard, you lose power and gas mileage instead. Carbon deposits reach a steady state at about 10-20k miles. The trick is for that steady state to be below the ping threshold. Causes of excessive carbon deposit buildup are putting supreme gas into a regular engine, driving a lot of short trips where the engine doesn't have a chance to warm up, and an engine that burns oil can have excessive carbon deposit buildup too. Running rough at idle which is what you are describing can be a binding automatic clutch, or maybe just the idle speed is set too low. You could also have air intake adjustment problems, the air intake is computer controlled and something in there could be binding up too. Ultimately though, all of these add up to an idle speed that is too low, although the cause is different. I would start with the idle adjust. If you have a manual then the problem is not in an automatic clutch because you don't have one. The problem is more likely idle speed too low, clogged fuel injectors, or something messed up in the air intake path. If you have a tach you can easily test and verify the idle speed, I don't know what the recommended spec is but mine reads about 650 RPM. If you have a manual then this is an easy test try gently pressing on the gas and get the idle up to 700 RPM, if the shuddering noise goes away then the problem is identified. If you have an automatic then try shifting into neutral and back. If the idle isn't up to near 700 RPM in both cases then an adjustment may be needed, if the problem goes away in neutral and the idle speed goes up, that confirms a low idle also. If shifting into drive causes a huge decrease in idle speed and idle adjust does not fix it (meaning the idle speed is hard to raise up but in neutral it goes way up easily) then you have an automatic clutch problem (these are rare so not too likely here). hope this helps, kmh3 |
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Some people have asked how long a Mazda will last. I've had my 91 626 since 9/93 when I bought it with 16,000 miles on it. I now have 350,000 miles and still with the original 5 speed manual transmission. I replaced the engine  266,000 due to excessive oil consumption. I bought a used engine with 40,000 miles on it supposedly (you really never know about the true mileage) & have been very happy with it. The only problems I have had are the air conditioner ( which I have had worked on many times) & the excessive road noise due to design I suspect. Other than that I've been very happy with it. It has been extremely dependable.
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| I HAVE A 96 PROTEGE LX THAT IDLES ROUGH OR WHEN POWER WINDOWS ARE USED AT IDLE. I ALSO HAVE A HIGH END STEREO SYTEM CURRENTLY USING THREE AMPLIFIERS BUT IT IDLED ROUGH BEFORE I HAD THE SYSTEM. RUBBING NOISE ALSO WHEN I SLOW DOWN TO BRAKE FOR A LIGHT OR STOP SIGN. MECHANIC SAYS THAT MY CALLIPER ON THE RIGHT SIDE IS STICKING. IS THIS TRUE? I JUST HAD THE PADS REPLACED AND ROTORS TURNED ABOUT 1000 MILES AGO AND NOTICED THIS NOISE AFTER THAT. | |
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