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Sedans Pontiac Bonneville Pontiac Bonneville General Maintenance and Repair
2228 messages, Last post on Nov 29, 2009 at 4:40 PM
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Feb 24, 2009 8:41 am) ">http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixityourself/ss/fuel_pump_repl.htm> Thank You for all of your help
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Replying to: phillyfrank (Feb 24, 2009 9:20 am) I'm wondering if there's a problem with the pump if it was replaced. Lots of replacements have come up failing, especially the cheap ones. If a pump is suspected, the only way to do it is use duct tape to fasten a fuel pressure gauge to the windshield facing the driver and drive it and see if the pressure falters when it gives problems. |
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Replying to: phillyfrank (Feb 20, 2009 3:11 pm) My 97 bonneville does the same thing and it is in the key and ignition switch. When it is warm the switch does not recognize the key and it disables the fuel system. It just cranks and cranks. It even does it sometimes driving down the road Then you get a big backfire. Wait for it to cool off. There is a way to bypass it. It costs about 20 bucks. Or like me,my brother is an electronics expert and he is going to bypass it for me.
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Replying to: ezlead (Mar 03, 2009 3:18 pm) I'm confused if you are talking about an actual burglar system installed aftermarket (GD is the brand?) or the alarm system built into the car as an option from the factory or the VATS system. Bad news: the VATS system will NOT shut down a car once the starting process has occurred. So it's not the etymology of the backfire. A little info: the VATS system reads the resistance in the key at startup attempt. If the resistance read is not correct, it won't let the injectors or the starter work. So if your car is cranking, the VATS system has allowed the key resistance to be within 10% of the nominal reading for which it was at the factory start. The fuel pump in the tank is NOT part of the VATS system. Bypassing the VATS system where the wires in the tilt column have broken partly or completely or the contacts at the key cylinder have worn and don't contact the key chip correctly is a pack of resistors ($1.99 for pack of 5, may need more than one combination) from Radio Shack and solder them into series and connect that across the connections at the connector at the bottom of the steering column. You are replacing the resistance-reading wires that go up the column so the resistance always is correct. However, now any key will start the car as long as it can turn the lock cylinder with or without a resistance chip. If you are getting a backfire, I'd look to the fuel system pump or the ignition system, wires, plugs, ignition control under the coils or the coils themselves. Then there is the possibility you're not getting a spark signal from the CPS. You could even have a more esoteric electrical connection problem. But my first guess (for what it's worth--I didn't win the $212 mil in Mega Lotto last night, so my luck's not very good) would be fuel system. Tape a fuel pressure gauge to the windshield if it does it frequently enough you think you might catch it. I'm assuming the pump hasn't been replaced and the car has more than 100,000 miles. |
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Replying to: jus88 (Nov 12, 2000 6:44 pm)
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Replying to: gmman3 (Mar 07, 2009 5:17 pm) |
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At what % of oil life should it be changed? I couldn't find it in the owner's manual.
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Replying to: rbullock440 (Mar 09, 2009 6:36 am) My other car just has a light that comes on and I change that a little sooner because it doesn't get the long trip drives any more.
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Mar 09, 2009 9:57 am) -rob
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Replying to: rbullock440 (Mar 09, 2009 10:13 am) The oil life indicator only measures the engine temps, speeds, outside temps, drive time between shutoffs, and maybe some others to predict when REGULAR oil of quality would need to be replaced. I've read lots of discussion about variation between types of synthetics and it sounds like you've done that homework to pick what you need. Use a good oil filter. And you if you do your own, you can always change the oil filter, add a little oil back, and drive longer if your oil and climate and car warrant that. I'd send in an oil analysis the next time you're at the end of your 15K interval to see how much life is left in the oil. Synthetic oil-EdmundsThere's a forum on here about Synthetics and oil testing. There are some people there who can help you with info and testing. If I can offer other advice, change the fluid in the transmission regularly as well. Maybe every 40K at most. I'd suggest Dexron VI which Walmart sells also for the replacement. It's a higher quality oil. They skipped from Dexron III to Dexron VI.
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