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Sedans Pontiac Bonneville Pontiac Bonneville General Maintenance and Repair
2228 messages, Last post on Nov 29, 2009 at 4:40 PM
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Replying to: charko2 (Jan 22, 2009 3:23 am) A new connector was required costing about $37. However, the real cost with this repair was the labor, since the dashboard has to be removed and the airbag system disassembled and reassembled. My dealer did the repair. Total cost: $375, also not under warranty.
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Replying to: scscars (Jan 25, 2009 1:26 pm) 
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Jan 16, 2009 11:51 am) In the 2nd pic there's something on the hoses at the bottom of the engine which looks like dex-cool. I'm bringing it to get inspected any day. I unhooked the battery to see if I could get the engine light off, but It didn't go off.  
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Replying to: phillyfrank (Jan 27, 2009 2:07 pm) The bolts around the UIM develope seeps which wick up oil and in some cases coolant which pools in the low spots such as around the bolt in the middle of the picture. The UIM is dry in that area so it's not going to seep them. The coolant goes through the UIM at the throttle body seals between it and the throttle body and about an inch to the left of that where the coolant goes from the metal lower into the ABS upper manifold. You're going to see external coolant in those areas if there are seal problems. The second picture shows a gooey clamp around the CV joint on the axle. Is it leaking grease--that's bad and needs to be check or fixed before joint fails. I see an orange brown tone on the belt and the pulley for the water pump. That suggests to me the water pump may be seeping; that's a wear item. When car's parked hot so coolant is under pressure you might be able to see a seep if you use a mechanics mirror to look into the backside of the water pump pulley there. The o-rings on the plastic elbow that comes out of the LIM to the idler housing may also seep in that area. You will be able to easily see brown coolant trail if that's occuring. |
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My car doesn't start after it's been running awhile, but it starts great when it's cold. I know when the engine is going to run ok when it goes up to 3 or 4 rpms and it idles fine for awhile. When I go to start it, after it's been running it wants to stall, but if I tap the gas pedal (lightly) it will surge and not stall. Sometimes it seems like no gas is going to the engine. I took it to my mechanic and he says the fuel pumps pressure is low and needs to be replaced. Does this sound right? How can I replace it myself? How hard can it be? I can't afford to pay $300. I'm a carpenter and good with tools, but I never took the time to learn about cars.
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I'm having problems with my car having a hard time starting...it always starts but one day it's not going to. The thing is that I only have problems with it starting when the engine is warm, the car starts beautifully when it's -30 but if I've driven it for an hour or so it doesn't seem to want to start very well. I'm also having problems with the car dying when it's idling but it doesn't seem to be idling high or anything. Help!
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Replying to: sultana (Feb 23, 2009 8:39 pm) You need to find if you're getting a timing pulse and I believe their suggestion was use a 197 bulb, like is in the side market and rear lights on our cars. Straighten the prongs out straight and put one into a fuel injector lead--remove it from the injector and just stick the bulb in while someone cranks the car. If there's no flash, then the injectors are not getting a timing pulse. You might set this up and test in advance to be sure you know how to unsnap the injector lead and put in the 197 bulb leads and that you get flashes. Then when it won't start, stick in the bulb and try. You need to diagnose if you are missing spark or fuel. If the injectors are working, then have a spare spark plug and pull off a spark plug wire and lay it with your spare plug against a metal part of the motor and crank to see if you're getting spark. Last, you can spray a starting assist fluid into the throttle body while cranking if you know you have spark and know you have injectors pulsing. If it starts then you can suspect fuel pressure and delivery from the tank. |
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My car doesn't start after it's been running awhile, but it starts great when it's cold. I know when the engine is going to run ok when it goes up to 3 or 4 rpms and it idles fine for awhile. When I go to start it, after it's been running it wants to stall, but if I tap the gas pedal (lightly) it will surge and not stall. Sometimes it seems like no gas is going to the engine. I took it to my mechanic and he says the fuel pumps pressure is low and needs to be replaced. Can it be the fuel filter needs to replaced? Where can I find the fuel filter in a Pontiac Bonneville SE?
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Replying to: phillyfrank (Feb 24, 2009 7:36 am) Another commong finding is a vacuum leak. Little rubber tubing deteriorates and cracks or just rots especially near ends or hot spots on the motor. Using carburetor spray around the tubing and edges of the UIM and throttle body might locate a leak for you. The IAC can go bad. The MAF sensor can be not working properly. Some people have luck troubleshooting MAF by simply unplugging it and starting the car. If it runs better with it disconnected for idle and low speeds, you may have found your problem. The MAF can be cleaned with chemicals like alchol or MAF cleaners from the parts store, but do not touch the wires. A soft brush might be used. If your mechanic feels it's the fuel pump, he might be right. They deteriorate. The replacement with a quality pump is expensive. A lot of people put in the cheap pumps and end up replacing them again within a year because they fail. The pump replacement also means replacing the tubes and fuel gauge sender. The tank must be dropped on that year car. The fuel filter, likely not your problem, is below the passenger side on the right. It's inside the rail. The tubing in front will be partly rusted and brittle. Use a tubing wrench for good even grip on the nut. The other end is a snap connector to the flexible tubing that goes toward the tank. If it were blocked, you'd complain about stumbling at full throttle and maybe trouble running cold when it's requiring a higher flow of fuel. Odds are it's not been replaced and you're over 100K. GM doesn't set a mileage for changing them out.
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