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Saturn VUE, Saturn ION, Saturn L-Series, Saturn Relay, Electrical, Engine, Coupe, Sedan, Wagon, SUV
#264 of 860 Tapping noise in exhaust of 2001 Saturn L-200
May 17, 2005 (9:32 am)
A few days ago the exhaust started giving off a tapping/buzz sound until the engine warms up for a few minutes or is driven about a block. It seems to be located about even with the seats where what I guess are the converter and resonator are located. So far I haven't found anything loose under the car. It varys with the engine speed but it isn't coming directly from the engine as I crawled halfway under it while the engine was running and it was coming from that area of the exhaust. I'd appreciate any suggestions as to what may be at fault. Thanks.
#265 of 860 Re: 2001 L300 Starting Issues [crb] 2000 LS2 same
May 21, 2005 (6:36 pm)
I have a 2000 LS2 the is basically just like a L300, I have the same or similar problem, when I try to start it the security light blinks and it will turn over but not start. I just got back from the Saturn dealer after the “fixed” this problem by replacing the BCM (computer control), on my return trip home from Saturn some 90 miles from home stopping at a gas station I realized the replacing the BCM did NOT fix this problem. I am prepared to go to court on this one as I asked the service manager if this would defiantly take care of the problem before I had the work done, they assured me it would (verbal contract), as of course none of their service work will have any warranty either expressed or implied. Well at least I paid with a credit card – very unsatisfied Saturn owner.
#266 of 860 Re: Tapping noise in exhaust of 2001 Saturn L-200 [sandpiper]
May 24, 2005 (6:35 am)
I'm guessing that you either live in a Northern state or Canada (where salt is used on the roads in the winter) or a coastal city (where you're exposed to the salt from the ocean/Gulf of Mexico).
This can affect the rivets (or at least they sure look like rivets) used to secure the heat shields (and usually the first ones to go are right below the passenger seats of the car).
I would check the long straight heat shield (right under the seats) and make sure that it's secure. Saturn will replace the rivets used to secure the heat shield at a nominal cost (they just drill out the old ones and pop in new ones, or you can do that yourself if you have a pop riveter).
While your checking out your heat shields, be sure to check that the exhaust pipes are properly positioned and secured in the hangers as misalignment of the exhaust system can also cause strange noises.
A failed catalytic converter will also rattle/buzz, so be sure to listen specifically to it as well. With the exhaust system cold (so you don't burn your hand), you can firmly hit the catalytic converter with your fist (straight up from the bottom) to see if there are any loose pieces of the ceramic catalyst present.
I hope this helps.
#267 of 860 Re: 93 SL2 Saturn [pespino]
May 24, 2005 (6:58 am)
It sounds like you have a bad ground on one of your brake lights (or the third/high-stop light). I would double check the fuses (I believe there are separate fuses for the normal brake lights and the third/high-stop light) and make sure that you don't have any water in the lights.
If all the fuses check out and there's no evidence of moisture, make sure that all the brake light bulb housings and connectors haven't corroded out.
I hope this helps.
#268 of 860 R Billieux--saturn 97
May 25, 2005 (9:04 am)
most of the problems were caused by a mechanic turning idle screw the wrong way--- nice people--vacuum test ok would go up to 2000 when put into park engine light on--trans shifting erratic-temp sensor bad corrected surging-all other sensors replaced--throttle body cleaned about 250.00 parts my labor and brothers I canott name co. I do business with but I wish I could transcript follows----The idle stop screw controls the min idle speed of the engine from which the PCM will raise the idle speed as necessary for operation condition and load The stop screw is pre -set at factory and requires no periodic adj--be aware that improper adj will rsult in false PCM codes idle instability and problems with shifting of auto transaxle--should be done when replacing throttle body and correct speed cannot be obtained alt can produce same symptoms too R Billieux sr---
#269 of 860 Re: SL2 Transmission down shifting [unioncode]
May 25, 2005 (11:26 am)
Was my info helpfull? What did you decide to do?
#270 of 860 Re: 2001 L300 Starting Issues [crb] 2000 LS2 same [zanzig]
May 27, 2005 (8:54 am)
I actually just had this problem fixed (for good I hope!) last week. I had been dealing with an independent mechanic who could not fix the problem, so he spoke with a friend of his that specializes in auto electronics. After describing the problem, he told my mechanic it was almost definitely the BCM, which meant I had to take the car to Saturn (Saturn doesn't release security codes to independent mechanics). Luckily, the repair seems to have worked.
Actually, the Saturn repairs ARE warrantied. The standard warranty from a Saturn dealer is 12 months/12K miles (whichever comes first). I asked before having the repairs done to be sure. If they made a mistake, they should fix it at no cost to you.
Also, you may want to have them make sure they reprogrammed all of your keyless entry remotes and the ignition system. If they replaced the BCM without doing that, it wouldn't work at all.
#271 of 860 coolant in oil engine #2
May 28, 2005 (12:45 pm)
I have a 1999 Saturn SW2. Back in November I noticed oil sludge in the coolant side of things, but no coolant on the oil side. I assumed that the head gasket had failed ( only 72K), so I pulled the head, had it resurfaced, put in a new gasket, used the old bolts, and zipped it back up. I noticed right away that there was now lots of coolant in the oil side of things, and no oil in the coolant. I pulled the head off again, had the head pressure checked, and it was fine. I got in a tiff with the local Saturn dealer about whether I should have used new head bolts. Another engine, a long block, became available, so rather than mess with the original block/head, I dropped the long block in. I zipped it up, ran it, and it began to leak oil profusely. Again, there was lots of coolant in the oil side, no oil in the coolant, causing the excess oil/coolant to go overboard.
Here is my question to Saturn home mechanics who know the answer. Is there any other interface, besides the head gasket plane, where oil and coolant can come together? For example, the intake manifold, a radiator with side oil coolers, etc....I find it hard to believe that I've got another failed head gasket.
#272 of 860 Changing Spark Plugs on Saturn LS V-6
May 29, 2005 (12:47 pm)
I bought a Saturn LS about 6 months ago, The car has been good to the wife. It presently has 68,000 miles on it. I have done most of the basic servicing on this car:brakes, oil changes, etc.
My question is, how do I change the spark plugs on this V-6? What do I need to remove to access the plugs?
I had a 93 Taurus SHO 3.0 and that was a bear of a car to change spark plugs
Thanks in advance.
#273 of 860 99 Saturn LS2 Electrical problems, starting difficulties
May 30, 2005 (6:27 pm)
I have the above titled Saturn, and while installing a cd player, I shorted the accessory power to the frame (yes I did it, no fabled mechanic here) and since I have experienced a whole world of problems. First and foremost the vehicle will not start unless you press the unlock or lock button while turning the key (imagine how long it took to figure that out).
All of the auxillary electrical systems work (with the exception of the power locks, but I'm getting to that) but the ignition is completely haywire. When I turn the key to start, nothing happens... at all, no clicking no power drain, nothing, even tried jumping it, no change. So I hold it there (the start position) and press the lock button and it turns over. Oh, likewise the interior lights don't work unless you're holding down the lock button.
Problem number two. Not only does the lock button seem to govern the world of my engine, but it no longer does it's job. both the lock and the unlock button, lock the vehicle, unless you hold down the lock button for a few clicks, then switch to unlock, it will unlock one side and lock the other.... yes, it is beginning to sound like an all to familar Steven King book. Oh.. and the keyless entry does not work. I tried to resyncronize it, nothing doing.
And to top it all off, the cd player still doesn't work.
I assume that I've damaged one of the relays or some other peice of electronic thingy that I can't find. Anyone out there know what I'm talking about... or have I passed in to that relm of ... at least you're not as screwed as this one guy I read about....
Thanx to anyone who can help.