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Mazda 626 Troubles

2476 messages,  Last post on Nov 12, 2009 at 12:00 PM

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What is this discussion about? Mazda 626, Sedan

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#10 of 2476 90 626DX burning oil by bkravitz Apr 11, 2000 (2:59 pm)
I've got a 90 Mazda 626 DX with 118K miles on it. Bought it used in 93. Been a great car but it's starting to burn more oil, about a quart every 1500 miles. I currently use 10W30 and live in Texas, which is pretty hot year round. A mechanic suggested I switch to a heavier oil (10W40?) to slow the burning. What do you think? Also, on hot days (over 90 degrees), the car is very sluggish. From reading some of the past posts, maybe my O2 sensor(s) are bad. How can I find out if these sensors (how many and where are they located) are bad and are they costly parts to replace (can I do it myself)? Thanks for the help. -Bruce
#11 of 2476 97 with idle problems by rgold Apr 12, 2000 (1:15 am)
(trinacria2)- i am having the same exact problems you are. i've brought it back several times. first they told me this was normal for a 4 cyl, but it didnt do it while it was new, next they found a bad ignition wire, then they played around with the motor mounts. it doesnt do it all the time, so maybe they didnt feel what i'm feeling. i think its definitely one of the sensors, probably the o2 sensor, but its also weird that the slightest elec. surge can throw this car out of whack, it must be a bad design. the car is in its last month of the 3 year warranty, i'm going to try one more time before its over, and if i cant get it fixed, then its time to see a Honda dealer. i'm out of patience.
#12 of 2476 626 idle by trinacria2 Apr 14, 2000 (1:45 pm)
rgold - I already gave up taking my car to Mazda since the warranty has expired and they charge way too much for the quality of work they perform. I have found a mechanic that was trained at a Ford-Mazda dealer and he seems to know a lot about the car. He is still convinced that it is a problem of unmetered air leaking in from the plastic box placed right after the computer. This would explain the fact that the idle is rough during cooler days or when the engine is not hot yet. He tryed to seal the box without replacing it, and it slightly improved for few days, but now it is getting worse. He tracked the air leak by listening to and following a subtle whistle with the engine at idle. It is something you may want to consider and suggest to your mechanic. However, I am not convinced this is the only problem. In fact, it does not seem to explain why the idle is so sensitive to any electric load. Please let me know if this helps or if you solve your problem by replacing the O2 sensor! thanks
#13 of 2476 I got a lemon by kris1013 Apr 14, 2000 (4:17 pm)
Recently, due to my return to college, I sold my 98 Honda Civic because the payments were high. I bought a 97 626 LX with low miles pretty cheap - THIS IS THE BIGGEST MISTAKE I HAVE EVER MADE!!! I have had the car for a week, and I can't even get a MA inspection sticker. The starter and the cadaliddic (?) converter need to be replaced. Because I bought the car in NH, I have no recourse. Is anyone else having such problems? The car has only 27,000 miles on it. I think I have been hosed! Replies to this message: savvyboy (May 23, 2007 8:31 am)
#14 of 2476 now I'm sure it's a lemon by kris1013 Apr 15, 2000 (5:32 pm)
Me again, this morning my clutch broke. The dealer told me I have a negative attitude - hah!!
#15 of 2476 93-94 Mazda 626 automatic transmission failures common? by anu0 Apr 16, 2000 (5:20 am)
I've got a 94 626LX 4 cylinder with the Ford automatic transmission. It's only got 89,000 miles on it and already needs to be replaced because it's venting tranny fluid. Had an independent tranny shop look at it and they confirmed that the only fix was a rebuild and this problem is pretty common for 93 to 94 Mazda 626. I was told that the 95 models and later had redesigned transmissions to address this premature failures. Has anyone had similar problems to mine?
#16 of 2476 How I fixed my rough idling by dougmckeen Apr 17, 2000 (8:25 pm)
I tried many small things before finally finding another '93 626 owner who had the same problem as I did. He replaced his spark plug wires and that fixed the problem. Both of our cars had the same amount of mileage (about 70,000miles, 100,000 km). I did the same thing and voila! The rough idling is gone. The cost was about $100 CDN ($60 US) to buy the parts and install myself. Mazda parts were a bit expensive; I picked some up from PartSource. Good luck. Doug
#17 of 2476 '93-'94 transmissions by windowphobe6 Apr 18, 2000 (12:15 am)
The Ford CD4E box wasn't used until model year 1994. The first couple of years, there were problems with blowing out the pump gasket, which would explain the Dexron hemorrhage. Ford redesigned the pump plate and gasket in the fall of '96 to take care of that problem - and yes, the new plate will fit the old transmission. There were other problems with the early CD4E, but this is the one that seems most pertinent. The Mazda slushbox used in all '93s and the six-cylinder cars afterwards has its own set of quirks.
#18 of 2476 I got a lemon by breaksr Apr 18, 2000 (9:02 pm)
Kristin, fear not. Pollution control systems on all cars are warrantied for five years unlimited mileage (Federal law). So if it is the catalytic converter it has to be replaced by the dealer for free. Also I am surprised that vehicle is not under manufacturer warranty for other problems given the warranty is 3 years 36K miles. I have a '96 which is also a piece of junk so I know how you feel.
#19 of 2476 You think you've had problems... by disenchanted May 02, 2000 (8:25 pm)
I also had a great experience with an earlier version of the Mazda 626, which prompted me to buy (new) a 93 626 LX 4cyl AT. As much as I like the look and feel of this car, it's pretty much been a dud. Luckily, a lot of the repairs were performed under the extended warranty (although not without a lot of legal wrangling, including a class action lawsuit against the insurer). I'm certainly no mechanic, but here's a list of some of the problems I've encountered which I don't consider ordinary maintenance (correct me if I'm wrong): (1) new transmission (to add insult to injury, they installed a defective rebuilt transmission which failed 3 months later); (2) shift lock repair; (3) leaking valve cover gaskets and freeze plugs; (4) replaced air bag module and control unit; (5) replaced stop light checker and relay; (6) air conditioner gasket repair; (7) repairs to the lifters and cruise control; (8) air conditioner compressor repair (after this point the extended warranty expired); (9) something called the "rocker pulley harmonic balancer" (are they yanking my chain?); and (10) replacement of the "air flow monitor". And yes, I am getting rid of the car. By the way, I had the same stalling problem as cbharvest -- replacement of the air flow monitor seems to have cured things. Now if we can figure out how to fix the idling problem (the latest development). Has anyone else tried replacing the spark plug wires as suggested by dougmckeen?

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