Last post on Nov 16, 2013 at 8:34 AM
You are in the Mazda 626
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Mazda 626, Sedan
#760 of 2547 626 Tranny woes.
Sep 10, 2001 (9:34 pm)
Hello, I own a 1998lx 626 2.0l 4cyl. auto Transission. This Ford unit failed at 53K miles.
I changed the fliud by dropping the drain plug every other oil change. Easy to do and cheap about 3.50 a change 3.5 qts.
owned the car since 1999. Paid 13k for the car w/12k miles. Seemed to be a good buy..the car handles well and has a spacious interior and trunk. Dash looks Quality..and it was 3k cheaper than a Camry and 5k cheaper than the Accord.
Mazda went 50/50 on the repairs still came out to $1650. Totally unacceptable. It looks like I'm married to this car. I checked the used market
and one can be had for $7500. Not a good resale value. I wonder if the word is out on dealership trade-ins to avoid this Car. My Plan is to install Transmisson cooler and change the dog out of the fluid. What else can I do?
#761 of 2547 Buying a used GF4A-EL
Sep 11, 2001 (6:25 am)
The most important thing, I think, is to make sure you get a box for the '93. A later tranny might work; '92 and before will not work. (For 1993, the transmission was switched to complete computer control; there isn't even a throttle cable.) I have no experience with, um, slight irregulars, but if the seller is willing to back the product, go for it.
#762 of 2547 Living with the CD4E
Sep 11, 2001 (6:42 am)
Drain and refill is nice so far as it goes, but it doesn't go much of anywhere with the CD4E with its internal filter; this is a tranny that really needs to be power-flushed on a regular basis. (I follow a 2-year/24k schedule myself.) Adding the cooler will likely help, since the earliest units tended to run hot. Transmissions remanufactured by Mazda (which are now actually remanufactured by Delco Remy, which bought Mazda's Jacksonville tranny facility) are supposed to have the most recent incremental improvements, but you never know exactly how old the replacement unit is - and there was a running change halfway through model year 1998 - so I can appreciate a certain level of wariness.
#763 of 2547 99 mazda 626 LX V6 Air Filter Change.. How??
Sep 11, 2001 (8:16 pm)
I know this may sound silly, and perhaps/probably I am missing something... Does anyone know how to remove the air filter on the 99 626 v6?? I checked the owners manual and it simply says to remove the clamps.. I see only one clamp (RT Front of Air box as you face the car) and that won't help open the box by itself... What am I missing here???
Thanks.. I have changed air filters before:)
Sep 12, 2001 (8:11 am)
I have a mechanic who is a Mazda specialist for 20 years. Here is what he does when he transmission overhauls are needed.
1. He uses factory rebuilds only like you should have had.
2. He installs a transmission cooler -- a more expensive one that can regulate temperature.
3. He changes the transmission fluid every 15,000 miles.
4. He adds Lubegard, or another product called Wear Guard.
He feels that this is adequate, but since you had transmission problems even changing regularly, I would recommend spending the extra and getting synthetic fluid.
#765 of 2547 60,000 mile Service
Sep 16, 2001 (7:09 pm)
I am approaching 60,000 mark on my 98'626 V6-ES and thinking about let the dealer do the 60K service. It costs $450. Fair deal?? Necessary?? Does anyone changed their cars timing belt? I am going to change it, it will cost me $400, ouch!!
Sep 17, 2001 (11:45 am)
Don't do it yourself. Unless you know how to change the Cam and Crankshaft seals. Mine was changed at 90,000 and at 120,000 it has to be changed again because the seals leaked and softened the timing belt. If under warranty have the dealer do it, and make sure that they are using an experienced mechanic. Otherwise find a good local mechanic.
Clean the MAF sensor, retorque the engine and transmission mounting bolts, replace transmission fluid (if automatic, put in synthetic) and filter, replace the following fluids brake, power steering, engine coolant. I recommend Lubegard for the transmission and power steering. it can be found at Napa for about $20.00 for both.
#767 of 2547 vacuum leak????
Sep 20, 2001 (7:25 am)
My 90 626 5spd makes a ticking/sputtering sound under load when it is cold. If I let the car idle, you can't hear it. It's more of a sputter than a tick and I am positive that it is not the lifters.
The sound goes away after the car has warmed up. My mechanic says i just have good ears
because he can't hear anything. They even hooked it up to some diagnosic machine and all read good. The car drives well even when it does sputter and i get 32-33mpg consistently.
Please help, this is driving me nuts.
#768 of 2547 Engine noises and sundry list
Sep 25, 2001 (11:40 am)
First of all I have a 2000 Mazda 626 ESV6 with about 40,000 miles on it. It goes with out saying that I use it fairly heavily. I have a problem that has been going on on and off for several months. Every thing seems to be fine but the car won't start. As "windowphobe6" suggested earlier (thank you for that) it looks like a problem that the car some how thinks that the gear is on and it won't start. So, whenever this happens I just get down and give the car a push (while in park mode) and I invariably hear an audible click. Then the car starts fine. Is this sign of a major trouble waiting to happen? And also, my car is an auto shift and I noticed some thing concerning. After a long drive, the plate on top of the gear stick .. the one marked with the gear position (sorry for the low tech description) gets hot. I noticed this because I keep my cell plugged into the lighter plug and the cell gets hot too. Is this sign of some kind of trouble? And also, more importantly, my car makes a lot of noise/sound while accelerating from park (at traffic lights.. and I don't press to the floor) and it's definitely not as smooth as a Camry or an Accord. Is this normal for a Mazda 626? Any help/tips would be greatly appreciated.
- A concerned owner.
Sep 25, 2001 (3:48 pm)
If you have to move the car slightly to get it to start, most likely the neutral-safety switch is at fault. Relatively simple fix, not likely a prelude to worse things.
Heat far away from a duct usually suggests an exhaust pipe too close for comfort, or a heat shield gone away causing same.
The V6 has a distinct growl, although if you want to hear some serious noise, you should hear the four-banger at takeoff. Then again, maybe you shouldn't. Toyota, and to a lesser extent Honda, go to a lot of trouble to tune out manifestations that might make you think your car is some mundane mechanical device. Mazda figures (1) you probably want to Zoom Zoom and (2) if so, why should they spend the extra bucks to hide it under a bushel?