Last post on Apr 15, 2013 at 8:56 AM
You are in the Mazda 626
What is this discussion about?
Mazda 626, Sedan
#736 of 2544 1998 Mazda 626 Clutch, Transmission problem
Aug 19, 2001 (7:16 pm)
My 1998 Mazda 626LX with 63,000 appears to have a toasted clutch (just made it into my driveway).
For the past week when putting into gear the engine would rev way past 5,000 RPM in the past 2 days it quickly got worse to the point were it is now.
#1. Is 63,000 miles about the time to replace the clutch anyways?
#2. How much $$$ should is expect to part with for this.
#3. Anyone elese with a manual transmission experice the same problems if so how at how many miles?
Thank you for any and all help
Aug 19, 2001 (8:12 pm)
A lot depends on one's driving style, but the last time I had a stick shift, I finished off a clutch about every 70,000 miles, so 63,000 doesn't seem too far out of line. Bradbury (whom I have quoted elsewhere in this thread) says 55k to 65k is typical on these cars.
The major expense is not the clutch itself, but the five or six hours it takes to install it.
#738 of 2544 Dead engine guy
Aug 21, 2001 (8:20 pm)
I took it to a REAL mechanic today and he called me around 5; my timing belt snapped. Seeing that I had it changed around 58k and I lose it at 107k, I'm pretty pissed. They're going to get back to me tomorrow to see if I did any other damage...unreal.
#739 of 2544 Dead engine guy -- bummer
Aug 22, 2001 (10:17 am)
I wonder if you have cam and crankshaft leaks that could have weakened the belt. Repair costs on belts are expensive. Replace the above cam and crankshaft seals as well as replace the water pump. With that mileage on it, the water pump probably won't last. My Mazda dealer orders replacement water pumps regularly. Save duplicate laber.
#740 of 2544 Mazda Strut replacement?
Aug 22, 2001 (1:13 pm)
I just replaced mine at 10 years ('91 GT) and 117,000 miles. They were making noise over speed bumps and I found the rubber spring seats were cracking and squishing out of place. I bought KYB GR-2s from BAP and so far they feel like OE.
#741 of 2544 Strut Replacement.
Aug 22, 2001 (1:46 pm)
Thanks for the response. I had pretty settled on the KYB GR-2's since I wanted a performance shock. Good to hear that someone else is happy with them.
#742 of 2544 Surging/Missing New 626
Aug 23, 2001 (4:22 pm)
OK, bought a new 626 with a 2.0 liter unit and automatic. Seemed OK for a few hundred miles, then started to 'miss' or 'surg' frequently (independent of A/C compressor) over 45 MPH. Worse in morning until warm. Dealer saids its 'normal'--that I'm sensitive to a fuel trim condition. Passengers need Dramamine--any ideas on what/where to check (no codes or engine lights on), or do I need a 6 cylinder?
#743 of 2544 I got your fuel trim right here
Aug 23, 2001 (4:57 pm)
(I always wanted to say that.)
This doesn't sound too normal to me. Around 45 mph, you're at the point where the torque converter is locking/unlocking, which isn't the most seamless of operations but doesn't really feel like either a surge or a miss. (The A/C makes its presence known, but, at least on my car, it's barely noticeable.) And anyway, if the fuel trim were enough out of whack to push the oxygen sensor out of range, you'd get a code of some sort. Maybe I'm just, um, insensitive, but I'm not buying this.
The gas pedal on these things seems a bit hyperactive to me; if you're going over a teensy rise, the subsequent descent may jar your foot ever so slightly, and the transmission will duly interpret this as a request, whether you wanted it to or not. If your roads are as crummy as ours, maybe this is what's happening to you, in which case you probably should move.
#744 of 2544 Surging/Missing New 626
Aug 24, 2001 (3:30 pm)
Thanks for the feedback. Glad to say our most of our roads here are new--many smooth as silk. Doesn't seem like an overdrive shift point, is worse around 50-55 MPH. Drove another one today--I really have a problem, now IF I can just get the folks downtown to fess up and try to really find the non-code part. Probably something simple--e.g., gas filter, sensor, plug wire, or something major--e.g., transmission slipping, etc.--was just wondering what (if anything) has been the most frequent item causing (or could cause) this type of problem. One other thing I have noticed, it doesn't seem as bad until it does go into the top gear (about 45,46)and the RPM's drop.
#745 of 2544 Cheap troubleshooting.
Aug 24, 2001 (4:03 pm)
Go to a Napa Store. Buy Lubegard for Automatic Trannies. I believ that this only costs $20.00. Have the equivalent amount to AT fluid drained and put it in. Drive it for a week or 2 and see if it doesn't fix the issue.
My Mazda mechanic has done this to Mazda transmissions for 20 years. He believes that it avoids most automatic transmission problems.
If it still has the problem you have protected your transmission anyway. Change fluid and readd lubegard every 15,000 miles.