Last post on Nov 16, 2013 at 8:34 AM
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Mazda 626, Sedan
#475 of 2547 Problems with 1993 Mazda 626 4 Dr LX Sedan
May 09, 2001 (9:39 am)
I'm thinking of purchasing a 1993 Mazda 626 4 Dr LX Sedan with 130K miles on it. It is manual transmission. I've read through all of the articles here, and did not come across one that mentions this model specifically. Does anyone know of things that I should watch out for? The car is in good ridable condition. They are only asking $1200 and I'm hoping to ride it for a year or two tops.
Thanks very much.
#476 of 2547 1995 Mazda 626-ticking noise
May 09, 2001 (2:54 pm)
I've had multiple problems with this car.. pretty much similar to the ones previously mentioned (i.e. cranny, o2 sensor, etc.). what's the deal with the ticking sound coming from my engine? I took it to the dealer and of course they didn't hear any ticking or notice where all my oil was going. I'm trying to sell the car but I'd like to know what the ticking/tapping sound is and if it is something that needs to be addressed. Is this problem inherent in all 1995 Mazdas and does it need to be corrected or can I leave it as is?
#477 of 2547 Ah, those wonderful '93s
May 09, 2001 (4:46 pm)
Best-looking of the generation, I thought. Then again, I owned one, so I'm biased. (And had I never sampled the '93, I wouldn't have the 626 I have now.)
There aren't any real '93-specific issues; the standard aging-626 stuff applies no less - and no more - than usual. This would include deteriorating CV boots, weeping from the valve-cover gasket (both of these easy fixes), fairly crummy weatherstripping, and the usual HLA noises (see below). This was, I believe, the last year for R-12 in the 626's A/C, so checking for refrigerant leaks is advisable.
#478 of 2547 The usual HLA noises
May 09, 2001 (4:52 pm)
The infamous Mazda tick (through 1997 on this model) generally emanates from the hydraulic valve-lash adjusters; they are smallish and they're way high on the engine, which means they may not be getting quite the oil bath they desire. My usual recommendation here is to get the oil changed to a decent synthetic and install one of Mazda's own OEM oil filters, which has enough resistance to post-shutoff drainback to keep just a smidgen more oil at valvetrain level. More often than not, the noise goes away or is substantially reduced. If it doesn't budge, you may have a damaged HLA - or, in some cases, a weak oil pump - but neither of these is particularly common.
#479 of 2547 windowphobe6: weeping from valve cover gasket?
May 10, 2001 (6:24 am)
Thanks for the info! After talking to the previous owner, he says the car is burning oil, idles roughly and engine knocks at normal operating temp. He tells me the oil level goes down slowly ever since he had it for 3 years now.
Are any of these problems related to "weeping" valve cover gasket, or do you have ideas if these problems are going to cost big $ to repair? I was not sure what you meant by weeping valve cover gasket.
Any adidtional info you could give based on the symptoms i describe would be great. I guess I am a little worried that the tranny is gonna give out on me soon, and no one in Boston wants to be stranded on a cold/snowy winter evening! =)
May 10, 2001 (7:16 am)
Small (which is to say, "not gushing") leakage. It could account for some of the oil loss, yes. This is not a major repair. It can, however, cause deterioration of the plug wires, which you should replace (along with the plugs, if they look like they're fouled) at the same time you fix the valve-cover gasket. It will likely improve the driveability substantially.
If oil is actually being burned - do you see any traces of it in the exhaust? - that's another issue entirely. Mere smells could mean, for instance, a leak around the oil-pressure sensor, which tends to drip onto an exhaust pipe. (Another cheap fix.)
May 10, 2001 (8:06 am)
I said burning oil because that is what the owner said it has. Your diagnosis seems more correct since it does pass rigourous emissions testing here in MA.
There is no white/black smoke coming from the tail pipe. If I have a mechanic repair the valve cover gasket, and change spark plugs and wires, how much do you think it may cost. Am I pushing it expecting the car to go to 160K?
#482 of 2547 Mazda 626LX Automatic Problems
May 10, 2001 (6:21 pm)
#483 of 2547 Mazda 626LX Automatic Problems!!
May 10, 2001 (6:37 pm)
I have a 1995 Mazda 626 DX about 90,000 miles. About 2 was ago my daughter got in to leave school. When she put it in drive the car would not go. We turned off the I/I button on the gear shift and the car went into gear just fine. The car will go fine out of I/I then kick it in when you reach about 50 mph does fine ail you come to a stop or drop below 20 mph. If you put the car in drive and rev the engine in will pop into gear but the O/D light on the dash begins flashing.
I have talked to about 10 differant mechanics about this problem,no one knows what it is! So I took it to Mazda to see what they had to say. They where not any help either. The only error code that turned up on the computer was a 452 code
which was for a speed sensor. No one felt like this was the problem since this really has nothing to do with the shifting of the car.I have read in your postings similar problems with the 95 626Lx about that it might be a Range Sensor. Can some one please help me with this problem since it seems to be a tough one. Thanks Bellew
May 10, 2001 (7:03 pm)
The gasket itself is about a $35 part; figure an hour of labor at your local rate to install. Plugs are cheap. Plug wires, alas, are not. (A couple of dealers do substantial mail-order biz on parts like this at decent savings.)