Last post on Nov 16, 2013 at 8:34 AM
You are in the Mazda 626
What is this discussion about?
Mazda 626, Sedan
#464 of 2547 Mazda 626 rpm surge
Apr 19, 2001 (10:13 am)
Windowphobe and Annafofana: Thanks for your suggestions on problems with rmp surge for my 1995 626 LX (posting# 453). I went to our local Mazda dealer shop to have the car checked up yesterday. At first, a technician drove the car for about 30 miles but he couldn't detect the surge. He told me that based on my description he is 90% sure that the problem is with the O/D shifting (as suggested in Windowphobe's posting). He said the transmission would need to be rebuilt(the O/D light never flashed during a surge). Later on, he called me again (I was at work while he performed the check up). He said that he did a computer diagnostics and found a code indicating that the range sensor was not functioning correctly (Windowphobe - you are right on target, the two possible causes had both been suggested in your post # 455). He said that it's very likely that the surge is caused by the malfunctioned range sensor but he could not guarantee it. He said he had never replaced one for other 626s before. Anyway, I spent about $150 to get a new range sensor installed. I haven't had time to drive the car long enough to see whether the surge is gone. If the surge returns, the technician said that my only option would be to have the transmission rebuilt. The cost would be about $1500 to $2000.
#465 of 2547 Evil spirits have possessed my solenoid
Apr 19, 2001 (12:15 pm)
I get my '95 Mazda 626 back from the trans shop for the third time, hopefully
preparing my CD4E for a few more miles, drive it around for a while, install
a new instrument panel (the previous one having been stolen by the police),
go to start my car, and then nothing, the stereo comes on, the little dinger dings,
the lights come on, but when I push the key forward to the start position, nothing
happens. Well, earlier in the month I had wrestled with a Viper 600ESP I didn't
know was installed because it had abruptly decided that I had stolen the car
and it didn't want to start (I just removed the alarm computer and kept the ignition
interrupt in and it worked), so I took the dash off again and started playing with
the wires, looking for disconnected wires, grounds that didn't ground, that sort
of thing. I find nothing. I start playing with the shifter, putting it in neutral, shifting
to park, all the while attempting to start my car. Nothing. After about 45 minutes
of messing with it, I got annoyed and started messing with the battery, checking
to see that all those big thick cables coming from it were in good condition, that
theywere bolted well to those place to which they are bolted, checking for
corrosion, nothing, the car still wouldn't start. Then I sat in the car, did my
homework, listened to the radio, for about a half hour. Then, on a whim, I turn
the key. Vroom, it starts.
That was the first time. I've been struggling with it for about three weeks, not
having the time or the money to seriously attempt to fix the problem. I've
checked my manual, and it tells me to make sure the wires to the solenoid
are in good condition. Well, the solenoid is below my exhaust manifold,
above an exhaust line, and generally in a completely inaccessible position.
As the weeks have gone by I've more clearly defined the parameters of the
malfunction, but not to my satisfaction.
After the car gets good and warmed up, about thirty minutes or more of
driving, it won't start back up. The solenoid doesn't even click. After what
seems to be a random amount of waiting time, generally 30 to 120
minutes, it will start again, and continue to start again (I turn off, turn
The main problem I have is that the problem is difficult to reproduce, I
can't seem to do it on demand. It doesn't appear to have anything to
do with the car warming up, I've idled it to operating temperature and
the problem doesn't appear. This has made it too inconvenient, so far,
to use a voltmeter to check if voltage goes to the solenoid. I've still got
some more voltmeter work to do betweent he key and the solenoid.
So, does anybody (recognize/have experience with) my problem?
Should I get a priest?
#466 of 2547 The devil you say? (for dasohm)
Apr 19, 2001 (3:25 pm)
Is it possible that this car also has the original factory security system? (And it's not always easy to detect; I drove my '93 for two months before discovering I had it.)
I'm putting my bet on the neutral start switch, though. If either or both of the P or N positions is even slightly out of alignment - and you did have some recent tranny work, right? - the car will start only if the switch component just happens to have slid into a (marginal) contact position.
#467 of 2547 Restored messages, sort of
Apr 19, 2001 (3:29 pm)
Not that it matters a great deal, but the A/C problem mentioned about 20 messages ago wasn't mine, despite having my name on it; the "Welcome to Sludgeville" post, despite not having my name on it, was. Apparently the database has some tranny slippage.
#468 of 2547 Distributor Problems?
Apr 24, 2001 (6:08 am)
To "zippy" that had the problem with his distributor, I had the same problem where the speedometer & PM starts jumping around the car surges then the car dies. This was caused by a faulty ignitor in the distributor. Now with a 6 cyl, you can just replace the ignitor as these tend to go quite often, but on a 4 cyl you have to replace the whole distributor ($800). There are 4 different types of distributors for the '93 4 cyl. If you get one from the scrap yard ($100 to $300)you takes your chances. However, you can get a remanufacture one for about $500 with a guarantee. As for the HOLD light, this can be disconnected so that the HOLD function doesn't work. The problem with HOLD is that it can damage your transmission if it is accidentally left on when driving. Personally, I don't see any purpose in the HOLD function, so just cut the wire in the gear shift lever. I also had the front left coil spring break last week, and these are not cheap to replace if you buy from a dealer. Go you a wrecker for this part. Hope this helps.
Apr 24, 2001 (4:08 pm)
Well, it's certainly not intuitive, but I found it useful back when I had the '93; the second-gear-start with immediate upshift to third (HOLD on, shifter in D) was the most effective way to get going on excessively-slick surfaces. The CD4E tranny offers no such niceties; you can start in second and stay there, but it's just not the same thing.
#470 of 2547 1998 626 CD player problems
Apr 26, 2001 (7:15 am)
I have a 1998 626 DX, and am having problems with my CD player. When I turn the volume down, it goes up and vice versa. When I eject the CD, the player continues to try to eject or whatever for 10-15 seconds after the CD is out. Now, this is the fourth CD player Mazda has put in this car, all in the last 14 months or so. All eventually developed problems like this, but not every one the same. One just stopped playing CD's completely. This car was recalled for some sort of shield around the stereo or something, which was supposedly taken care of when I had the second stereo replaced. After the third one was put in we started to suspect that maybe the problem is the electrical system, but the dealership said no. Now in the last couple of weeks, the check engine light is coming on for awhile, then going off by itself. It's done this three times now. We are less than 3,000 miles from the end of the warranty and I really don't believe that putting a new stereo in will fix the problem. We moved to Kansas after the fourth stereo was put in, so now we are taking it to a new dealership. My husband called them and asked them if they would check the electrical system, since we thought it was pretty odd for the same car to have had 4 bad stereos, and they reluctantly agreed to check, but said that it wasn't odd.
Has anyone else had this problem, and does anyone have advice on what it might be? Thanks!
#471 of 2547 windowphobe6
Apr 26, 2001 (5:13 pm)
I've brought this up on an earlier post regarding my power moonroof on my 94 626, and the problem is that in able for it to work, I first have to open the rear flap then close it; then once closed, I can then push the other switch to slide the moonroof open. I cannot open the moonroof by just pushing the slider button first. I must open and close the rear flap first. From what I can remember, you had a similar problem with your 93 model.
So my question is: Are the switches going bad, and if yes, can they be replaced? Or is the problem an indication that the moonroof motor is going bad? Would appreciate your expertise regarding this matter. Thanks.
Apr 26, 2001 (6:17 pm)
The switches can be replaced, yes. I didn't bother getting this fixed on the '93, but I tend to doubt this is a motor issue, since movement is otherwise just fine.
Each of these switches, though, has a relay, and I suspect it's more likely a relay that's acting up. (Those, too, are replaceable.)
#473 of 2547 1998 Mazda 626
Apr 26, 2001 (10:27 pm)
My transmission went out two weeks ago at 86k miles, I bought the car in 1999 with 54K miles. The warranty has expired and I did not purchase an extended warranty. Total cost for a rebuild transmission $2,744.00. My wife and I purchase two vehicles on New years eve of 1999.
We bought a 2000 MPV, which had a front end problem since the day we bought it (pulled to the left) took it back to the dealer seven times, finally had to hire an attorney that handles the "Lemon Law". After a year of stress, we won the case. I took my MPV back to the dealer and I was given my money back.
Now on to my 626, I commute to work 120 miles round trip so I thought I bought myself a reliable commuter car, the engine light would come on and go off, I take my car to a mechanic. The mechanic at the shop runs the car on a scope, gets some readings and never figured it was the transmission that was getting ready to go out.
To make a long story short I was taken again my Mazda, I didn't know I was buying a Ford product! very misleading.
I notified my attorney as well as an attorney that handles consumer fraud. They are both interested in this case. If you are interested in a class action suit, please contact me.
I do not want to be stuck with my 626, I owe appox $9,000.00.