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Mazda 626 Troubles

2544 messages,  Last post on Apr 15, 2013 at 8:56 AM

You are in the Mazda 626 Forum.

What is this discussion about? Mazda 626, Sedan




Messages Page 32 of 255

#306 of 2544 WATER IN TRUNK - MAZDA 626 by suzann2

Feb 06, 2001 (12:47 pm)

I'm just about to get rid of my 1990 Mazda 626 (purchased new in 1989). Here's my tips on fixing some of the problems we encountered. Hope it helps!
 
Leak in Trunk - the water is coming in through the tail lights. Get rid of the foam seals around the plastic light covers and use silicone caulk instead. It might be harder if you ever have to remove the plastic light cover, but it stops the leaks!
 
"bucking" when you are at a stoplight or idling- The problem is the air/fuel mixture and the transmission. We can't help there - we still have the problem.

#307 of 2544 suzann2 by mtolman

Feb 07, 2001 (12:02 pm)

Thanks for the note on the 90 626. I have had the same problem with water in the trunk, to the point that it mildewed and rusted parts of my golf bag and stuff.
 
I had replaced the trunk seal but that only partially helped. Then I -"shhhh"- broke a taillight and when I replaced the whole assembly -$50- the problem almost went away. I can't tell for sure as we have had a drought in the south for some time now.
 
No problem with bucking - but I have a stick - if it did buck it would be the operator - ME !
 
Since I last wrote "knocking on wood", I have had to replace a CV joint. I didn't think that was the problem, but she is back to cruisin' now. Thanks.

#308 of 2544 ATX fluid - TrickShift by wjm1

Feb 07, 2001 (2:28 pm)

I have '94 626 ES auto. Transmission shifts very hard 1-2. Took it to AAMCO. It's easy to guess - they said - must rebuild. So I went to a mechanic I trust. Drained the ATX fluid and put TrickShift from B&M. It did make a difference (not only in the color - it's blue, not red ). Now it's way better than it was. Still - you feel it when it shifts, but it doesn't crash kidney stones anymore and I can save on dental as well )
 
(it costs about ~4.50US a bottle, but in my oppinion it's worth it every penny)
 
Thought that might help someone here...

#309 of 2544 bucking in low gear by ashcroft

Feb 07, 2001 (4:25 pm)

I a 1990 MX-6 2.2l that "bucked" in low gear. My brother had a 626 2.2l with the same problem. The cause in both cases was a tear in the accordian like air hose that connects the air flow sensor to the intake manifold. You have to look carefully in the folds to find the tear. If that is the problem, you can fix it easily yourself for about $60 and basic tools.

#310 of 2544 About to buy a '98 626 es v6 by wbissell

Feb 07, 2001 (4:59 pm)

Just wondered if anyone out there knew of any problem areas with this year? Is the engine reliable in this year? How about the automatic transmission? I've read that these engines produce 170 hp. Is this correct? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

#311 of 2544 '98 issues by windowphobe6

Feb 07, 2001 (6:32 pm)

First year of the fifth generation, though it's not much different from the fourth except in dimensions - powertrains were (mostly) carried over. The V6 is 170 hp at 6000 rpm.
 
There were some engine changes for '98: no more hydraulic valve-lash adjusters (you get to have your lash inspected every 60k miles now), and no more distributor (replaced by a waste-spark system). If anything, these should improve reliability slightly.
 
The autobox is the same old GF4A-EL - not bulletproof, but not bad.
 
The only thing I don't like about the '98 is the softened-up suspension, compared with the '93-'97 cars, but some people like the way it goes down the road just fine, and it's not tuned for maximum wallow like some other cars you could probably name.
 
As with any 626, have a look at the valve-cover gaskets and the CV boots.

#312 of 2544 check engine light by fromatoz

Feb 07, 2001 (9:02 pm)

Model: 1993 Mazda 626 ES V6
Symptom: If I start the car without warming up, the check engine light will go out after one mile or so. Then I restart the engine, the light will go away. If I start the car with warming up first, there is no such problem.
 
Would someone please tell if this is caused by something wrong with my car, or something wrong with my driving habit. Thanks.

#313 of 2544 Through the MIL by windowphobe6

Feb 08, 2001 (4:24 pm)

You'll have to pull those codes, or have them pulled for you, before you can be sure what's going on. If drivability isn't suffering, you might have an oxygen sensor on the edge of expiration and the computer is compensating - for now.

#314 of 2544 Antitheft Radio by fromatoz

Feb 09, 2001 (12:57 am)

Thanks Windowphobe6. You are a kind person.
 
Today I made a stupid mistake to guess the antitheft code of my radio(because it never worked since I bought it), after three times the system didn't let me guess any more. Now there is only 'ERR' flashing on the radio display and in addition the CD player also doesn't work now. Would you please tell me how much is cost of my mistake? Thanks again for any advice from you.

#315 of 2544 Re: Trickshift by dayokayode

Feb 09, 2001 (1:36 pm)

wjm1: Do you know if trickshift is safe for a new car? I'm seriously considering replacing the auto transmission fluid in my 00LXv6 with this product to further improve the shifts. I checked B&M's website and found that they don't recommend it for newer cars.
 
Thanks!

Messages Page 32 of 255

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