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Sedans Mazda 626 Mazda 626 Troubles
2476 messages, Last post on Nov 12, 2009 at 12:00 PM
You are in the Mazda 626 Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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My '93 is a little bit ragged around idle speed (which is 700 rpm - have it checked with an external tach) when it's cold outside, but it smooths out somewhat after warming up. Pushing the climate-control fan speed to 3 or 4 does cause a temporary blip, but it recovers within a second or so. My best guess for trinacria2's 626 is that there is some minor electrical glitch that's not being compensated for properly - which will be a pain to diagnose. Incidentally, my idle got much buzzier this month, to the point that things actually seemed to be shaking. And it turns out that something was shaking; the plastic bracket that mounts the air tube to the metal bar that supports the radiator had broken through. I have no idea what this costs to fix, so in the meantime the bracket is being held together through the miracle of duct tape. |
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I had a 90 626LX that I liked a lot but it had a ugly encounter with a SUV. That car was extreemely trouble free (not in the shop once) and fun to drive(or should I say thrash  ). It had 120K at that time and I planned to drive it into the ground 200K+. I replaced all the typical parts that wear out my self. An air intake boot every 60K was the only thing I would consider out of the ordinary. After the demise of my 90 626 I had to replace it. I looked at the sport sedan field and wanted a VW Passat but it would have been an extra $5-7K equiped the same as the 626. My past experience, test drive, and the reviews were good so I bought a loaded 626ES V6 5 speed but am now having problems with it. The first being hesitation problems. This happenes in the mid range as mentioned in the other posts. You'd swear the thing was turbocharged. It also often hesitates when shifting causing the car to lurch. To overcome this I wind her up and shift very quickly. I've tried every type of gas to no effect. I took it in to a Mazda Dealer and went for a drive and the technition experienced the problem but said it was not significant enough to justify trouble shooting it(dull looks and shoulder shrugs)!! So for now I'm like everybody else waiting for solution. I am also experiencing intermittent ABS problems. Sometimes the warning lights come on when I start the car and stay on. If I shut the car off and restart it sometimes they go out other times not. Sometimes water from puddles or a carwash will cause the system to fail. Other than these minor problems (ha, ha, wink, wink)I like the car. It is more posh than my 90 was but I can see no love affair in our future.
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It sounds like it could be an O2 sensor problem ... which is pretty common for 626's ... Which yr is yours anyways? #17 |
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I have a 93 626 and for the past 4-5 months have been having a problem with rough idling. Initially the dealer cleaned out the throttle body, then on the next trip in it was the idle speed control that was the problem. On the next diagnostic trip, the distributor cap was cracked and the rotors were bad (this was fixed without charge). The idle is still rough (it doesn't dot it every time the engine idles though). Now the dealer says I need a new distributor. I find it very hard to believe that the mechanic at the Mazda dealership cannot locate the source of this problem. I have invested quite a lot into trying to fix this problem, without any results. I am having another mechanic look at my car this week. If anyone has any helpful information please reply
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I just got a 95 626 ES with 55,000 miles on it. I was driving about 65 mph for 30 miles and then turned into city, stop-and-go traffic. My car chugged and stalled twice while driving through town. I parked for five minutes and started it up going 50 mph for ten more miles with no problem. Any thoughts on this? I've also noticed that when it idles, it stalls if the oil cap is removed. Is this normal? There is evidence of a small oil leak somewhere. It's still under warranty, so I'd like to approach the dealer with some knowledge. Thanks. cbharvest |
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| I just purchased my first Mazda ever and bought a 626 LX V6. I really love the car and the way that it drives. However, within the first 50 miles, I noticed a light knocking noise coming from the engine only when it is in park with the air conditioning off(lowest possible RPM). As soon as it is in gear or the air is on the noise disappears. I returned it back to the dealer where they looked at the car for two days, tried many fixes, but were unable to solve it. They think it is being caused by some break in issue with the timing belt and that it will go away. Their advice, from their top tech was to continue the break in process and they would look at it at 3000 miles. At the time of this analysis, the car had only 600 miles. While driving, the engine runs and sounds great. I just wanted to know if anyone has had to deal directly with Mazda and how user friendly they are in dealing with warranty issues? | |
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I've got a 90 Mazda 626 DX with 118K miles on it. Bought it used in 93. Been a great car but it's starting to burn more oil, about a quart every 1500 miles. I currently use 10W30 and live in Texas, which is pretty hot year round. A mechanic suggested I switch to a heavier oil (10W40?) to slow the burning. What do you think? Also, on hot days (over 90 degrees), the car is very sluggish. From reading some of the past posts, maybe my O2 sensor(s) are bad. How can I find out if these sensors (how many and where are they located) are bad and are they costly parts to replace (can I do it myself)? Thanks for the help. -Bruce |
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| (trinacria2)- i am having the same exact problems you are. i've brought it back several times. first they told me this was normal for a 4 cyl, but it didnt do it while it was new, next they found a bad ignition wire, then they played around with the motor mounts. it doesnt do it all the time, so maybe they didnt feel what i'm feeling. i think its definitely one of the sensors, probably the o2 sensor, but its also weird that the slightest elec. surge can throw this car out of whack, it must be a bad design. the car is in its last month of the 3 year warranty, i'm going to try one more time before its over, and if i cant get it fixed, then its time to see a Honda dealer. i'm out of patience. | |
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rgold - I already gave up taking my car to Mazda since the warranty has expired and they charge way too much for the quality of work they perform. I have found a mechanic that was trained at a Ford-Mazda dealer and he seems to know a lot about the car. He is still convinced that it is a problem of unmetered air leaking in from the plastic box placed right after the computer. This would explain the fact that the idle is rough during cooler days or when the engine is not hot yet. He tryed to seal the box without replacing it, and it slightly improved for few days, but now it is getting worse. He tracked the air leak by listening to and following a subtle whistle with the engine at idle. It is something you may want to consider and suggest to your mechanic. However, I am not convinced this is the only problem. In fact, it does not seem to explain why the idle is so sensitive to any electric load. Please let me know if this helps or if you solve your problem by replacing the O2 sensor! thanks |
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Recently, due to my return to college, I sold my 98 Honda Civic because the payments were high. I bought a 97 626 LX with low miles pretty cheap - THIS IS THE BIGGEST MISTAKE I HAVE EVER MADE!!! I have had the car for a week, and I can't even get a MA inspection sticker. The starter and the cadaliddic (?) converter need to be replaced. Because I bought the car in NH, I have no recourse. Is anyone else having such problems? The car has only 27,000 miles on it. I think I have been hosed!
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