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Mazda 626 Troubles

2544 messages,  Last post on Apr 15, 2013 at 8:56 AM

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What is this discussion about? Mazda 626, Sedan




Messages Page 254 of 255

#2526 of 2544 Re: Mazda 626 LX V6 1998 [mvperez4jesus] by mn_test347

Nov 22, 2011 (5:22 pm)

Replying to: mvperez4jesus (May 23, 2008 12:39 pm)
Hopefully you have your issues taken care of by now. The 02 sensor will also come on if the wires to it are not connected. Since you cut and splice the wires when you change the sensor - double check your splices. I replaced my sensors at about 90000 miles, am at 150000 now. No problems.
 
If the sound from the back end you hear is ticka-ticka-ticka-ticka-ticka and it occurs sporadically for only about the first five minutes - it's some valve related to the fuel/vapor ... something. There's a TSB for that. They'll install a rubber mount. If it's more of a clunk-a-lunk over bumps - mine does that too - don't know what it is, maybe brake pads.
 
Yes, the coolant reservoir gets holes in it, I'm on my third one (also a 1998). As for overheating - make sure that the pressure cap is on the *reservoir*, not on the engine (I am used to seeing the other way around).
 
There's also a TSB for hesitation - they'll reprogram the fuel delivery for that.

#2527 of 2544 Re: just bought a used 1997 mazda 626 having some issues [afroman707] by johnr16

Nov 22, 2011 (8:12 pm)

Replying to: afroman707 (Nov 12, 2011 6:57 pm)
No.. These cars are not worth repairing.. They are junk... try to find a used Honda or Toyota..

#2528 of 2544 Re: just bought a used 1997 mazda 626 having some issues [afroman707] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

Nov 22, 2011 (10:56 pm)

Replying to: afroman707 (Nov 12, 2011 6:57 pm)
No I don't think it's worth fixing unless you want to take it apart just as a hobby.

#2529 of 2544 DoubleOught 100K+ by skibry1

Nov 23, 2011 (6:10 am)

Our first new car is still running well. The ticka-ticka from the rear end still happens,occasionaly with no preformance issues. The clunka-clunka,aka Gremlins in the trunk,which was there from dealer lot departure has since departed!?! Afroman707 if yours is a 3pedal variety it might be worth saving but if it's an automatic,many tranny issues ahead. Love our left-leg-flexor and at 28-31 mpg have had eleven years of fun.
      Contemplate falling white crystalline matter!!!!

#2530 of 2544 Re: Loosing power [mickeyz1] by stu_the_bear

Dec 10, 2011 (10:22 am)

Replying to: mickeyz1 (Nov 09, 2005 3:13 am)
Good ignition wires are vital on these engines and I found only one brand that works well... NGK... so don't waste your time and $ as I did on other so-called premium wires on your Mazda because they just don't work right, causing power-robbing misfires and stall-outs at low RPMs. Secondly, after owning 2 nearly identical Mazda 626 LX V6 manual cars (1998 and 2000 models) with similar ongoing starting troubles and failed batteries, replacing the starter cured all. For under $100 at the wreckers you can get a good starter (surprisingly easy to install once you get the air intake unit out of the way for access). A good starter cranks the car over much faster and draws far less current from the battery. Before finding the solution to be the starter, both my car's engines cranked over slower when starting and strained the battery. The original starter in the 2000 626 that I drive now finally failed to the point that even a boost would not crank the starter, yet I knew the car was good because a slow roll and popping the clutch in gear with the key "on" got it started easily. Mechanics and parts stores alike gave me the run-around with crap such as my car needing the most expensive premium battery with max cranking amps and/or a higher output alternator (such BS). 3 batteries later I finally found the culprit to be the starter and fortunately a good one from the wreckers was the solution.

#2531 of 2544 Re: DoubleOught 100K+ [skibry1] by stu_the_bear

Dec 10, 2011 (10:35 am)

Replying to: skibry1 (Nov 23, 2011 6:10 am)
Rattles and cluncks in the rear supension is probably due the the bushings on each side of the rear stabilizer bar. The rubber bushings get hard and shink with age, making an irritating rattle with every bump or ripple the car drives over. New bushings will cure the noise but a simple solution that might stop the noise for quite some time is to take Vise Grips and squeeze the metal clamps that hold the bushings against the stabilizer bar (hangs low in front of the rear axel). My mechanic simply squashed the clamps so the bushings have less gap to rattle and greatly reduced the noise!

#2532 of 2544 Happy w/ Mazda's..or am I just that way ? by nebraska2

Jan 15, 2012 (3:40 am)

I have 2 Mazdas---a 1995 Mazda 626 (I-4 5-Sp) (now-140K miles-bought used in early 2002) and a 1997 626 (I-4 5-spd) (now-190K miles-bought used in 2008). Both WHITE LX models.
 
I always tend to pay cash for my cars--no notes/loans/comp Insurance, etc.
 
I have put about $10,000 into these 2 cars (including their purchase) over a decade.
 
Includes 2 pretty involved accidents for the '95 -a new clutch (complete) and a new tranny.
 
I need to put another $3000-$4000 in them for 2012, to keep in good shape. (Struts, Alignment, windshield, tires, body work, timing belt & tensioner, etc, ..and water pump.
( I'm definitely in the --Water Pump Better done at Timing belt replacement -camp)
Thus about 12,000/10 = $1200 a year ( for 2 cars) . Not bad.
 
Even at $16,000/11 yrs= $1450 a year (2 cars) My MD Brother (ie. CLICK of the Magliozza Bros.) sez "Buy new" ( Yes,... he of the ..I'll never buy a VW again! (He bought New).) I am of the other view--CLACK.
 
For example--"What would a $17,000 NEW CAR in 2002 be worth today"?? (And how much would I really have spent on it over 10 years ?)
 
The 1995 626 came home from it's Midwest college 2 weeks ago. ( My College Senior son got the 2003 Passat hand me down-via the MD Uncle--his former personal Money Pit car )
 
 The 1997 626 heads to the same college this coming Fall with the next Freshman student.
 
Mostly, the 626's sit in Dorm parking lots/ Apt complexes and commute a few miles to school, and back to home occasionally. (For Repairs, cash, food, and Laundry--usually)
About 10,000 total miles each year.
Insurance is zilch (no comprehensive carried), as are taxes, Plates, etc.
 
The 626's have been well maintained (a good reasonable private mechanic). Both get 26/35 + MPG. Both still drive well. (New struts, etc will improve this)
 
Due to job changes and the economy, I don't travel as much. Only drive 10k-18k a year. (2011 IRS guideline is 50 cents /mile) I also have more time to tinker, change oil myself, new brake shoes, rotate tires, talk cars with the neighbor, etc.
I also like driving these damnable cheap, paid for, gas -sipping, Zippy little cars 5-speed cars!
The sun roof in the 97 is great!
 
My daily driver is a V-6 Chrysler LHS. (130K miles) Good shape. I Like the car. 18-28 MPG. A cruiser! I'm ready to park the LHS ....and drive the '95 626.
 
My Office has a tree lined (sap) , asphalt (hot) parking lot where my car sits in the sun/ snow /thunderstorms/ etc--most of 2-4 days a week. The other day(s) I spend on the road.
My Attorney peers tend to drive more expensive, shiny cars-- but I'm more like a hobbit, " filling the corners of my 'round stomach".
 
I make money most years from billing my mileage ---to easily cover the cost (or via deductions) of the two Mazda's and the LHS.
 
The "Click & Clack" acid question is thus: Do you put money into "Older cars" (a/k/a the Money Pit ) to keep them going...or would you prefer to buy a GERMAN Passat with a bad oil pump, sludge, engine failures, re-calls, $$$$ for re-built engines, High Insurance, Loans, etc ??
 
In other words---Are Mazda owners just "tinker" type people (Hobbits) who have a frugal personality... and the car is just a logical extension of this quirk of personality ???
 
I have been struck by the generosity of the people on these forums--especially those who slap wrenches for a living. They give away tips and advice more freely ....than Old Pete Seeger, gave away songs.
 
Impressive bunch of folks, you are !
 
Philosophical comments are welcomed.!

#2533 of 2544 mazda 626 losing power by lilyankee

Feb 04, 2012 (8:07 am)

Iv just bought a 98 Mazda 626, v6, auto trans, and while driving it loses power sometimes, occasionally when it does this it acts like its missing or starving for fuel. Iv had the fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs, and throttle position sensor(used) replaced. and it hasnt helped. There is a gap in the plastic box were air filter goes my boyfriend thinks that could be one posiblilty or the knock sensor. Anybody have similar issues or ideas that can fix this problem? thank you

#2534 of 2544 Re: mazda 626 losing power [lilyankee] by p100

Feb 04, 2012 (10:18 am)

Replying to: lilyankee (Feb 04, 2012 8:07 am)
Bad plug wires can cause occasional miss, typically on light acceleration, which may be confused with fuel delivery problems. These V6 engines require plug wire replacement about every 100K miles. You can get a set of OEM plug wires from rockauto.com for about $ 75. What goes bad on the plug wires are the long boots that deteriorate from heat.
 
Also, you should use premium gas in this car. It gets much better mileage (10% better than with 87 octane) and performs better.

#2535 of 2544 Rattling noise after repairs by shazzard

Feb 04, 2012 (11:23 am)

Hey fellow Mazda owners,
 
Recently my 2002 Mazda had to go the shop for repairs. It has over 150 miles, so I'm used to taking it in once a year for something.
 
Over the past year there has been an increasing squeal coming from the engine and I knew something (compressor/water pump/steering pump) was about to go...well it finally did and the belt along with it.
 
I took it to a local repair shop and they told me that the timing belt and water pump needed to be replaced, so I consented.
 
After the repairs, it ran great for two days and then I began to hear a very low rattle/tapping noise that incrementally got worse over about a two period. I called the shop, took it back, they said that most likely the water pump was bad out of the box...after investigation it was not bad...then they said it was the tensioner...they replaced that and the problem actually got worse.
 
Now, while idling it just has a loud clicking/knocking noise that seems to come from either the power steering pump or some other place directly in front of the engine. Keep in mind, it runs fine, just makes noise.
 
When I took it back today and complained about it, their 27 year veteran mechanic said he had never heard the noise before but would tear it down and make it right.
 
Does anyone have a similar experience...or can you shed some light on the nature of the problem?
 
Extremely frustrated,
Shazzard

Messages Page 254 of 255

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