Last post on Nov 16, 2013 at 8:34 AM
You are in the Mazda 626
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Mazda 626, Sedan
#2522 of 2547 1997 Mazda 626 5 speed
Aug 19, 2011 (5:38 pm)
Driven this car for 6 months no problems. Today drove to a friends, car sat for about 5 hrs., during this time in rained and hailed hard with my windows partially down. My car was drenched, even had water in the cup holders in the middle. Well when leaving I got about ten minutes down the road and my car stalled and I coasted over to a stop. Long story short, unknown help came along and said because he couldnt hear my fuel pump hum when turning the key on that he thinks it is the fuel pump. Is this possible? Car turn over real strong but just wont start! HELP PLEASE!!!!
#2523 of 2547 Re: 2002 Mazda 626 Crankshaft positioner sensor help [lisa31]
Sep 09, 2011 (9:06 pm)
I think you need to check Air Idle control valve and clean a throttle body. May be Idle RPM needed to be adjusted.
#2524 of 2547 mazda 626 1997
Oct 15, 2011 (2:37 pm)
ive replaced clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, master cylinder, and slave cylinder, now when i try to shift gears my clutch stays on floor and wont shift, like my clutch isnt disengaging, reverse is the worst wont come out of reverse until i pop clutch let car die, then i can get it in netural and restart. Any ideals im going crazy
#2525 of 2547 just bought a used 1997 mazda 626 having some issues
Nov 12, 2011 (5:57 pm)
its my first car i dont know much about cars either. it over heats in just a few minutes and blows out a lot of exhaust. there is rust on the radiator and it looks like it had some sort of oil leak in the past. i had the thermostat replaced and its still having the same problem and i noticed water leaking from what looks like the water pump. my friend is saying it maybe a blown head gasket. im just wondering if the car is worth fixing, im not really sure what to do its my first car...
#2526 of 2547 Re: Mazda 626 LX V6 1998 [mvperez4jesus]
Nov 22, 2011 (4:22 pm)
Hopefully you have your issues taken care of by now. The 02 sensor will also come on if the wires to it are not connected. Since you cut and splice the wires when you change the sensor - double check your splices. I replaced my sensors at about 90000 miles, am at 150000 now. No problems.
If the sound from the back end you hear is ticka-ticka-ticka-ticka-ticka and it occurs sporadically for only about the first five minutes - it's some valve related to the fuel/vapor ... something. There's a TSB for that. They'll install a rubber mount. If it's more of a clunk-a-lunk over bumps - mine does that too - don't know what it is, maybe brake pads.
Yes, the coolant reservoir gets holes in it, I'm on my third one (also a 1998). As for overheating - make sure that the pressure cap is on the *reservoir*, not on the engine (I am used to seeing the other way around).
There's also a TSB for hesitation - they'll reprogram the fuel delivery for that.
#2527 of 2547 Re: just bought a used 1997 mazda 626 having some issues [afroman707]
Nov 22, 2011 (7:12 pm)
No.. These cars are not worth repairing.. They are junk... try to find a used Honda or Toyota..
#2528 of 2547 Re: just bought a used 1997 mazda 626 having some issues [afroman707]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Nov 22, 2011 (9:56 pm)
No I don't think it's worth fixing unless you want to take it apart just as a hobby.
#2529 of 2547 DoubleOught 100K+
Nov 23, 2011 (5:10 am)
Our first new car is still running well. The ticka-ticka from the rear end still happens,occasionaly with no preformance issues. The clunka-clunka,aka Gremlins in the trunk,which was there from dealer lot departure has since departed!?! Afroman707 if yours is a 3pedal variety it might be worth saving but if it's an automatic,many tranny issues ahead. Love our left-leg-flexor and at 28-31 mpg have had eleven years of fun.
Contemplate falling white crystalline matter!!!!
#2530 of 2547 Re: Loosing power [mickeyz1]
Dec 10, 2011 (9:22 am)
Good ignition wires are vital on these engines and I found only one brand that works well... NGK... so don't waste your time and $ as I did on other so-called premium wires on your Mazda because they just don't work right, causing power-robbing misfires and stall-outs at low RPMs. Secondly, after owning 2 nearly identical Mazda 626 LX V6 manual cars (1998 and 2000 models) with similar ongoing starting troubles and failed batteries, replacing the starter cured all. For under $100 at the wreckers you can get a good starter (surprisingly easy to install once you get the air intake unit out of the way for access). A good starter cranks the car over much faster and draws far less current from the battery. Before finding the solution to be the starter, both my car's engines cranked over slower when starting and strained the battery. The original starter in the 2000 626 that I drive now finally failed to the point that even a boost would not crank the starter, yet I knew the car was good because a slow roll and popping the clutch in gear with the key "on" got it started easily. Mechanics and parts stores alike gave me the run-around with crap such as my car needing the most expensive premium battery with max cranking amps and/or a higher output alternator (such BS). 3 batteries later I finally found the culprit to be the starter and fortunately a good one from the wreckers was the solution.
#2531 of 2547 Re: DoubleOught 100K+ [skibry1]
Dec 10, 2011 (9:35 am)
Rattles and cluncks in the rear supension is probably due the the bushings on each side of the rear stabilizer bar. The rubber bushings get hard and shink with age, making an irritating rattle with every bump or ripple the car drives over. New bushings will cure the noise but a simple solution that might stop the noise for quite some time is to take Vise Grips and squeeze the metal clamps that hold the bushings against the stabilizer bar (hangs low in front of the rear axel). My mechanic simply squashed the clamps so the bushings have less gap to rattle and greatly reduced the noise!