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Mazda 626 Troubles

2544 messages,  Last post on Apr 15, 2013 at 8:56 AM

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What is this discussion about? Mazda 626, Sedan




Messages Page 253 of 256

#2512 of 2544 2000 mazda 626 v-6 overheating.any solutions? by gilcrow1130

Dec 03, 2010 (8:06 pm)

2000 mazda 626 v-6 overheating problems.im seeing that it seems this car has a problem with the overflow jug.im wondering if there is a solution to fix this once an for all.the car has had 3 new overflow jugs installed.please email me at gcrow85live.com if you know the final solution to this problem

#2513 of 2544 Re: 2000 mazda 626 v-6 overheating.any solutions? [gilcrow1130] by p100

Dec 04, 2010 (5:57 pm)

Replying to: gilcrow1130 (Dec 03, 2010 8:06 pm)
I had my share of issues with the coolant overflow bottle, but there are other reasons for overheating. I had one of the fan motors (the A/C condenser cooling fan) go out twice in the last 11 years. Without both fans operating and A/C on, the engine can overheat. Check and make sure that both fans are operating when A/C is on.
 
Also, I had a problem with the original radiator at around 200k miles mark. It was seeping coolant right through the upper neck, but the cracks were microscopic. However, I was losing coolant at the rate of about 1 quart a week. I installed a new radiator, and never had this problem again. The car has 276, 000 miles on it now.

#2514 of 2544 Re: 98 mazda 626 es [infamousfaze] by p100

Dec 04, 2010 (6:02 pm)

Replying to: infamousfaze (Aug 10, 2010 12:50 am)
Are you loosening the center bolt on that idler pulley before tightening the tensioner bolt? Those idler pulley bearings typically last only about 80-100k miles. I have had to replace at least three sets on my car to date. You can either buy a new bearing and press the old one of and press a new one in, or buy a complete pulley with the bearing. Pressing out and pressing in a bearing on these is tricky and you must properly support the pulley and use a hydraulic press to do the job right.

#2515 of 2544 90 Mazda 626 quiting by skykingdumb1

Jan 05, 2011 (12:45 pm)

This car runs good for about 1/2 hr, then quits. Has new fuel pump,sock and cleaned tank. Won't start again for about an hr. Thought prob was CPS, but it has been suggested that it doesn't have one. Any other suggestions will be appreciated . thanks

#2516 of 2544 Re: possible causes of a bad Fuel Pressure Regulator? [twitme] by mladen5375

Feb 14, 2011 (10:32 am)

Replying to: twitme (May 23, 2006 1:56 pm)
I am having the same problem. I put on new bosch spark plugs, new spark plugs wires and new distributor but the problem did not go away. It only does it when its warm outside and I have to wait at least 20-40 mins before it can start back up. I don't know what is causing this.

#2517 of 2544 Re: possible causes of a bad Fuel Pressure Regulator? [mladen5375] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

Feb 14, 2011 (11:22 am)

Replying to: mladen5375 (Feb 14, 2011 10:32 am)
Possibly a bad fuel pressure regulator. You should test fuel pressure in the fuel rail and see if it bleeds down too much.

#2518 of 2544 1999 626 vacuum by gutpoker

Mar 05, 2011 (4:41 pm)

My car has been idling bad for awhile now, and after reading a lot of posts, I preceded checking the following: Funtion of air control and throttle body, both seem to be fine, but cleaned anyway. I have pulled injectors and checked seals, checked spark plugs and wires by disconnecting each one in turn, I checked all vacuum lines and found none bad. I feel it to be a vacuum leak because if I spray cleaner around the injectors and valve cover gasket the engine idle noticably changes. Any ideas before I spend a ton at dealership?

#2519 of 2544 Re: 95 626 ES V6 stalled [cbharvest] by own3626s

Mar 15, 2011 (9:29 pm)

Replying to: cbharvest (Apr 02, 2000 10:35 pm)
Not sure about the V6's but I had 2 4cyl that did the same thing and found the distributor to be bad. The module is not likley replacable, may need to replace the entire distributor.

#2520 of 2544 2.0 stumbles when warm by own3626s

Mar 15, 2011 (9:40 pm)

Hey gang, I have a 1996 626 4 cyl 2.0.
No check engine light, when it gets warm it stumbles, sometimes really bad and sometimes not as bad, yet under full accelleration it does't stumble and runs out. When it's cold it acts normal. Any idea's? I am going to replace the fuel filter but to me that shouldnt be the problem. Spark plug fouled? Sensor??
 
Thanks in advance!!

#2521 of 2544 Re: 2.0 stumbles when warm [own3626s] by p100

Jul 30, 2011 (5:02 pm)

Replying to: own3626s (Mar 15, 2011 9:40 pm)
You could have leaky valve cover gasket, causing oil to seep into the plug wells and contaminating plug boots, causing a misfire. Another possibility is one or more bad plug wires. Typically you will see missing with a hot engine on light acceleration when you have a bad plug wire(s). You could also have a vacuum leak. Check to make sure all vacuum hoses are connected properly.

Messages Page 253 of 256

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