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Mazda 626, Sedan
#2481 of 2547 2001 626 v6 starting problems and other strange problems
Feb 03, 2010 (8:43 am)
I have my 626, 108K. Recently, I had crank-no-start issues. Sporadically. Like first try = cranks, no start. second try, starts right up. Happened maybe 3 or 4 times over the course of a month. Last Monday, crank and crank and crank, wouldn't start all day. Had it towed to a non-dealer service center. They said that the fuel pump is working, as in getting voltage, but that it's not getting the command to pump fuel. But otherwise it was working normally, because it was pressurizing, etc. The guys there said they couldn't find an electrical wiring diagrams that matched my car, apparently they changed a few times, and my car matches none of the diagrams they could find. They couldn't solve it, but called me the next day with the car starting up fine, 100% of the time. Went to pick up the car, and as it was almost dusk, turned on the headlights -- headlight relay just chirps/buzzes, won't turn on. Thinking the headlight relay is fairly simple, I traded the relay with the horn, as they are both the same part number. Horn still works, Lights still don't -- the relay just hums and buzzes. Odd indeed.
The next day, starts fine, headlights work fine. Techs are stumped.
I then recalled about a month ago, my wife reported that the airbag light was flashing when she drove the car. Next time I drove it, it was not. Then one day it did, and it was a 3-7 code. My limited search capabilities for finding the meaning of this lead me to believe it was irregular voltage detected on the passenger side module. (If anyone has the exact meaning, please advise.) But that went away and has not come back either.
Long story short, I continue to have these intermittent, seemingly unrelated issues, that are various degrees of severity (can't drive the car at night without headlights, can't drive at all with it not starting, but can drive with a warning light occasionally).
Some posts point to these lead back to something as generic as the alternator going bad, and not putting out enough current. I'm tempted to believe that, because windings do go bad, but I've never had a dead battery issue.
Talking to the Mazda dealer, he wants to change the fuel pump and swap out the relays. I think this is short-sighted though. It's treating the symptoms, not treating the problem.
So, along the lines of a pre-failed alternator, could this be something as simple as a bad ground somewhere too? Any similar stories to correlate here or advice is appreciated greatly.
#2482 of 2547 clutch slave/master cylinder
Feb 18, 2010 (11:31 am)
just replaced my slave and master cylinders for my clutch. still not getting any pressure.doesn't seem like it is taking any fluid from the reservoir. any suggestions? 1996 Mazda 626 4-cylinder
#2483 of 2547 Re: clutch slave/master cylinder [iodome]
Feb 18, 2010 (4:21 pm)
Two things "right off of the bat": One: The hydraulic system ie master cylinder, line/lines from it to the slave cylinder, as well as the slave cylinder must be "bled" of all air in them. Usually one can have an assistant pump or press up and down on the clutch pedal, while the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder is opened, or loosened (while the pedal is held down) letting air mixed with fluid out,you can use a piece of rubber brake line going to a tin can to catch the old fluid mixed with air coming out, or a rag if you wish, and then closed or tightened BEFORE the pedal is allowed up so as not to draw any air back in. It is good to pump the pedal two or three times before it is held down to build pressure up before holding it down to open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. This process is repeated numerous times, but stopped to top off the master cylinder(clutch) with brake or clutch fluid (same thing basically) so IT DOES NOT GO DRY THEREBY ALLOWING AIR BACK INTO THE CLUTCH HYDRAULIC SYSTEM. Usually this is complete with one or two topping offs of the master cylinder when it is roughly half empty.
Second: The clutch must also be adjusted properly, ie, not too much freeplay, nor too tight that it will wear out the release bearing, and or cause the clutch to slip.
#2484 of 2547 Re: 2001 626 v6 starting problems and other strange problems [jamoh]
Feb 23, 2010 (11:36 am)
Just a random thought, but are the cables to the battery and the connections to the battery still good? Was having an issue with my daughter's '99, including flickering headlights. Finally would not start. Jumped it off enough to get to auto parts place. tested battery and it was bad. Replaced it. Hook up cables, car would not even begin to start. Bottom line was the negative connection, though it looked good, was not actually tightening on the negative battery post. Also explains battery going bad as I am sure it was not getting a charge off of alternator.
#2485 of 2547 Front wheel-area clicking noise
Mar 01, 2010 (5:12 pm)
Hi... i recently bought a nice 99 626 automatic. love it, however, i got in an accident. replaced the front fender, driver side doors, signl, etc. had to replace driver side control arm, and adjust the frame for various noise. anyhow, now its almost perfect, but...
after an alignment 3 wks ago, this clicking/binding noise in the drivers side wheel (?) is freaking me out. it happens only when i hit a bump/pothole or when im turning hard to the left. it sounds like a ball joint or god only knows.
my mechanic took off the wheel and tightened and checked everything after driving with me briefly. sees nothing. also, sometimes i "feel" the noise in the brake pedal. does that make sense? any ideas? my mechanic said its probably this hard rubber piece that supports the axle or something when the car bounces up and down. thanx!
#2486 of 2547 Re: Front wheel-area clicking noise [zoev]
Mar 01, 2010 (8:37 pm)
I would almost definitely say that your front axle is damaged from the accident. If you can "feel" the noise in the brake pedal, the axle is front wheel drive, and will send input into the brakes. It could have been worn, and then damaged more in the accident, even though it apparently works, it could be damaged or bent or both.
The worst case is that the transaxle is damaged as well. But try to get the front axle replaced first.
#2487 of 2547 Re: lglaney [pat455]
Apr 05, 2010 (8:23 am)
I'm working on my wife's '96 626 ES, and I've found a NEW problem. To begin with, it munched its' alternator belt. I had to remove the entire idler pulley ass'y to make it function properly as the adjustment bolt had been shouldered off...'yummy'(or not). I put all the cookies back in the jar (+new pulley) and put on the belt and tensioned it per manual's instruction. I let it idle for a few, all was good. I checked everything again before zippin' her up when I smelled hot belt. The alternator pulley was SUPER HOT. It still turns but it's just murdered a new belt. So I ask you,..."say whaaaaattttt??!!!??!? I know I have to replace the alt. but why the heat issue and can you direct me as to the best way to remove/replace the unit?
thnx a mil! notagain2
#2488 of 2547 Re: lglaney [notagain2]
Apr 05, 2010 (10:01 am)
I have a 1990 Mazda 626 DX. I HAD belt problems with my alternator belt as well.
There are several things to consider.
#1.If the belt is removed, can the alternator pulley spin freely?
It should keep spinning after you let go of it for at least a second or two.
#2. The new pulley you installed should ALSO spin freely.
Sometimes one can over tighten a perfectly good pulley, and it will bind up and not spin well.
Requiring, a spacer washer to be installed possibly, or simply using a lockwasher
and or locktight, to prevent vibration from loosening it,backing it off a bit, and then not tightening it quite as much when re-tightening.
#3. The alternator, pulley and crank pullies all have to be in alignment, meaning that the belt is running in a straight path, not left or right too much, sometimes the alternator,bracket(alternator) or pulley, has to have a different bolt or a washer or two added to bring the belt's path into proper alignment.
#4. Lastly, proper belt tensioning has to mean that ten to fifteen pounds of pressure
flexes the belt at least a half inch, up to one inch, ten to fifteen pounds is not a lot of pressure.
Also: A new belt WILL flex and stretch, mostly after a few minutes of running,
so, I advise you to RE-Check belt tension after starting and running just a few minutes. And, again, not too tight if you re-tension that belt. It will squeal if it's too loose anyway.
#2489 of 2547 97 626 upper strut noise
May 09, 2010 (8:54 am)
have a 97 626 141,000 miles had the wheel bearing replaced he took apart the pasenger side by mistake got it back with a bushing noise I suppose in the upper strut P side haven't looked too far yet anyone got ideas
#2490 of 2547 94 mazda 626 that has no spark but power to the coils
May 09, 2010 (2:23 pm)
i have a 94 mazda 626 dx that has no spark but has power to the coils. I took off the dist. cap and everything looks good. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas if theres a sensor that might be out that i could do myself>