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Mazda 626 Troubles

2544 messages,  Last post on Apr 15, 2013 at 8:56 AM

You are in the Mazda 626 Forum.

What is this discussion about? Mazda 626, Sedan




Messages Page 249 of 255

#2474 of 2544 Re: 1996 MAZDA 626 ENGINE STOPPED RUNNING [saeedabidi] by bt100

Nov 03, 2009 (2:39 pm)

Replying to: saeedabidi (Nov 03, 2009 7:04 am)
I Own a 1998 Mazda 626 lx V6 automatic, I just purchased it 3 months ago in what I thought was great shape.. It has now began to have many different issues. First the check engine light stays on, then the RPM starts to go higher than before going up to 2500-3000 before switching. It felt like it was just delayed a few seconds more then normal. I then took it to mazda and they said the diagnostic was "PO400, EGR system flow malfuntion which may be plugged or open "was causing the engine light to stay on and that I need a new transmission to fix the gear switching issue. Now the brake light has started to come on when I stop, but the brakes are fine. Then I went to start it today and it felt like the starter was toast, (wasn't doing anything).........I tried it a few more times then it worked.....clearly alot of issues....can they all be related to the EGR valve? I really can't think about getting a transmission, and am needing some help with winter coming!!! Anyone???

#2475 of 2544 Re: 1996 MAZDA 626 ENGINE STOPPED RUNNING [bt100] by gyates

Nov 08, 2009 (8:28 pm)

Replying to: bt100 (Nov 03, 2009 2:39 pm)
As far as the EGR flow issue, this is a very common problem with these cars. It is caused by carbon build-up in the throttle body. There are 2 small ports that go to the EGR valve that get clogged and must be cleaned out by hand. You have to open up he throttle body to get to them. You will need to purchase a throttle body gasket before you do this, as you will destroy the one in place. They are cheap. Also get some throttle body cleaner to spray into the ports. Following is a link that explains it, including some pics: http://forums.mazdaworld.org/index.php?showtopic=13174&st=0
 
If the EGR is stopped up bad enough, it might be fooling your computer system and making the tranny shift higher, maybe. Were any codes present indicating a tranny problem?
 
If the timing belt has not replaced, I highly recommend getting this done. Do you know any maintenance history on your car?
 
Brake light could just be low brake fluid levels in the master cylinder. Check the brake fluid levels.

#2476 of 2544 Re: Water does not flow from radiator to reserve tank [autobahn5] by cliffmazda626

Nov 12, 2009 (1:00 pm)

Replying to: autobahn5 (Sep 21, 2009 2:20 pm)
you said the car is 15 years old and it overheated then maybe it's possible the head gasket has blown

#2477 of 2544 Thermostat by lon8

Jan 19, 2010 (9:13 pm)

Where is the thermostat located on a 2000 626 e s?

#2478 of 2544 Re: Idle problem [teresas] by runo4h

Jan 22, 2010 (4:57 pm)

Replying to: teresas (Apr 02, 2000 3:46 pm)
I do not have an answer yet. I came inside after a ride in my wonderful 1999 626 that I love so much and have left parked for the last month, and decided to google my problem. Basicly we have the same complaints. Not sure what the rotors had to do with an idle problem. I left the car with a mechanic for a month before and had to go pick it up because some people don't see the reasoning in repairing a 10 year old car. I absolutely love my car!! When I graduate from college I'm buying a Mazda 6. I'm going to take some of the the suggested solutions to another mechanic this weekend and I'll let you know if I get it repaired. Good luck and post a reply if you get yours fixed!

#2479 of 2544 Re: rattling noise [nbpete] by renem

Jan 25, 2010 (11:57 am)

Replying to: nbpete (Mar 07, 2001 6:20 pm)
I've been experiencing the same rattle/vibration at low speeds for about a week. I recently had my muffler and back pipe replaced a month ago, so I know that is not the cause. I only hear the noise when I first start up my car until I am at about 35 mph. I don't know if it it goes away or if at the higher speed I just can't hear it, but it seems to disappear after the car has been running for a while. It is difficult to tell where the sounds is originating, but it seems to be more in the front.

#2480 of 2544 Re: Stalling [hawko] by renem

Jan 26, 2010 (8:04 am)

Replying to: hawko (Oct 28, 2008 5:11 am)
You probably already have the answer, but my 98 was stalling all the time as well. I had the PCV valve replaced and no more issues.

#2481 of 2544 2001 626 v6 starting problems and other strange problems by jamoh

Feb 03, 2010 (9:43 am)

I have my 626, 108K. Recently, I had crank-no-start issues. Sporadically. Like first try = cranks, no start. second try, starts right up. Happened maybe 3 or 4 times over the course of a month. Last Monday, crank and crank and crank, wouldn't start all day. Had it towed to a non-dealer service center. They said that the fuel pump is working, as in getting voltage, but that it's not getting the command to pump fuel. But otherwise it was working normally, because it was pressurizing, etc. The guys there said they couldn't find an electrical wiring diagrams that matched my car, apparently they changed a few times, and my car matches none of the diagrams they could find. They couldn't solve it, but called me the next day with the car starting up fine, 100% of the time. Went to pick up the car, and as it was almost dusk, turned on the headlights -- headlight relay just chirps/buzzes, won't turn on. Thinking the headlight relay is fairly simple, I traded the relay with the horn, as they are both the same part number. Horn still works, Lights still don't -- the relay just hums and buzzes. Odd indeed.
 
The next day, starts fine, headlights work fine. Techs are stumped.
 
I then recalled about a month ago, my wife reported that the airbag light was flashing when she drove the car. Next time I drove it, it was not. Then one day it did, and it was a 3-7 code. My limited search capabilities for finding the meaning of this lead me to believe it was irregular voltage detected on the passenger side module. (If anyone has the exact meaning, please advise.) But that went away and has not come back either.
 
Long story short, I continue to have these intermittent, seemingly unrelated issues, that are various degrees of severity (can't drive the car at night without headlights, can't drive at all with it not starting, but can drive with a warning light occasionally).
 
Some posts point to these lead back to something as generic as the alternator going bad, and not putting out enough current. I'm tempted to believe that, because windings do go bad, but I've never had a dead battery issue.
 
Talking to the Mazda dealer, he wants to change the fuel pump and swap out the relays. I think this is short-sighted though. It's treating the symptoms, not treating the problem.
 
So, along the lines of a pre-failed alternator, could this be something as simple as a bad ground somewhere too? Any similar stories to correlate here or advice is appreciated greatly.

#2482 of 2544 clutch slave/master cylinder by iodome

Feb 18, 2010 (12:31 pm)

just replaced my slave and master cylinders for my clutch. still not getting any pressure.doesn't seem like it is taking any fluid from the reservoir. any suggestions? 1996 Mazda 626 4-cylinder

#2483 of 2544 Re: clutch slave/master cylinder [iodome] by puttering

Feb 18, 2010 (5:21 pm)

Replying to: iodome (Feb 18, 2010 12:31 pm)
Two things "right off of the bat": One: The hydraulic system ie master cylinder, line/lines from it to the slave cylinder, as well as the slave cylinder must be "bled" of all air in them. Usually one can have an assistant pump or press up and down on the clutch pedal, while the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder is opened, or loosened (while the pedal is held down) letting air mixed with fluid out,you can use a piece of rubber brake line going to a tin can to catch the old fluid mixed with air coming out, or a rag if you wish, and then closed or tightened BEFORE the pedal is allowed up so as not to draw any air back in. It is good to pump the pedal two or three times before it is held down to build pressure up before holding it down to open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. This process is repeated numerous times, but stopped to top off the master cylinder(clutch) with brake or clutch fluid (same thing basically) so IT DOES NOT GO DRY THEREBY ALLOWING AIR BACK INTO THE CLUTCH HYDRAULIC SYSTEM. Usually this is complete with one or two topping offs of the master cylinder when it is roughly half empty.
Second: The clutch must also be adjusted properly, ie, not too much freeplay, nor too tight that it will wear out the release bearing, and or cause the clutch to slip.

Messages Page 249 of 255

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