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Mazda 626 Troubles

2544 messages,  Last post on Apr 15, 2013 at 8:56 AM

You are in the Mazda 626 Forum.

What is this discussion about? Mazda 626, Sedan




Messages Page 245 of 255

#2438 of 2544 Re: 1994 Mazda 626 LX Overheating [cmazda1994] by kellij2

Oct 28, 2008 (6:13 am)

Replying to: cmazda1994 (Oct 18, 2008 11:09 pm)
OK so I have the same car you do but it is a 99. I had the same problem and didn't see that i was leaking anything, but check the overflow tank, meaning the plastic containter you pour your antifreeze in. I had a slight crack underneath it that I couldn't see my mechanic did. I replaced that and my car doesn't run hot anymore. When I did this, my problem went away. hope this works.

#2439 of 2544 Mazda 626 with "fried motor" by okieopie

Oct 29, 2008 (8:09 am)

Just got off the phone with a mechanic who claims that the motor in my 2001 Mazda 626 is "fried". The car has 115,000 miles on it. I want to check with you all to see if you think he's right.
 
Here's the situation:
 
Saturday, I drove my car on a 100 mile trip with absolutely no problems. Pulled it into the parking lot and went to bed. Early Sunday morning I started the car and immediately the Check Engine light flashed twice. There was little power in the engine and a "rattling" sound from under the hood (right side). I had to get to where I was going so I went ahead and babied the car along (very little power) until it finally wouldn't go any further. I know that it was an idiotic thing to do and I'm probably paying the price. Since I am out of town I had it towed to the nearest garage and they have been working on it since Monday.
 
Monday, the mechanic told me the plugs were fouled and said that the car needed a tune-up. Said that he was going to replace the plugs and the ignition wires. I told him that I didn't think that was the problem, but he insisted that he needed to do it to get it to run.
 
Tuesday, I checked with them and they said that the new plugs fouled immediately when trying to run the car. Said that he was going to try to do a wet and dry test (I think he means a compression test).
 
Wednesday (today), he said that air was being sucked in through the exhaust and that the engine was "fried". Said that the oil was 2.5 quarts low when it was towed in (though when I checked it, it showed full). They're supposed to get me a price for replacing the engine.
 
If the engine truly is blown, so be it... But I can't figure out why the car would run absolutely fine on Saturday and then have a catastrophic failure on Sunday. If anyone would like to offer their opinions or their sympathy on the loss of my beloved 626, I would be grateful!
 
Thanks!

#2440 of 2544 Re: Mazda 626 with "fried motor" [okieopie] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

Oct 29, 2008 (9:56 am)

Replying to: okieopie (Oct 29, 2008 8:09 am)
It's hard to say without an autopsy and unless the mechanic has those X-ray vision glasses you used to be able to order from comic books, he really doesn't know the full answer either. I realize you are only able to pass on info second hand but it doesn't quite add up, as you say. The plugs were fouled with what? oil? gas? That would be good to know.
 
Air sucking from the exhaust? How did he determine that?!!
 
I think I'd do a "cylinder leakdown test" before tearing into this engine, unless the mechanic can take a part and stick it under your nose for you to see some horrendous damage.
 
Possibilities? cracked head? Loss of oil during the night, resulting in engine damage while being run? Leaking injector filled crankcase with gasoline, washing cylinders of oil causing damage?
 
How is the whole engine "fried"? Top and bottom? All the parts are bad? Has he pulled the cylinder head off?
 
Way too little information here.

#2441 of 2544 Re: Mazda 626 with "fried motor" [Mr_Shiftright] by okieopie

Oct 29, 2008 (10:12 am)

Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Oct 29, 2008 9:56 am)
Thanks for confirming my suspicions. To answer a couple of your questions...
 
There was no loss of oil in the parking lot during the night. The car showed symptoms immediately upon starting (the flashing check engine light, loss of power).
 
I'll check with him what he means when he says the plugs were "fouled" -- He showed me one of the plugs and it did look black and burned. From what he was saying to me, it seemed that he was meaning that it was fouled with gas that wasn't burning off.
 
As far as the other questions, I'll ask him about those magical glasses
 
Thanks for your help...

#2442 of 2544 Re: Need to find thermostat on 2002 V6 HELP!!! [caseysdubs1] by gyates

Dec 18, 2008 (3:22 pm)

Replying to: caseysdubs1 (Oct 23, 2008 1:10 pm)
I can help you some. My daughter has a '99 V6 that I just had the thermostat replaced in. It is located below the air intake box (where the air filter is). I understand they had to remove the box, remove the coil pack to get to it because it is on a lower hose.
 
I would also suggest you check the coolant reservoir bottle closely. Hers developed a leak (very common, it is plastic). I had to go to Mazda and buy a replacement. Very easy to replace though. The reservoir tank should be full to the "max" line.

#2443 of 2544 Re: 99 626 Idle Surge [askperry] by gyates

Dec 18, 2008 (3:26 pm)

Replying to: askperry (Sep 11, 2008 9:21 am)
Follow-up. Apparently the idle issue was something electronic, though I do not know what. I had to pull the battery cable for something else, and after doing this, the idle is now perfect and has been for the past 3 months. So, I have no clue what the issue was, but it is now resolved.

#2444 of 2544 Car wobbles, burning smell, engine light by jaganrvce

Dec 25, 2008 (11:45 am)

My car Mazda 1997 626 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 73000 miles was working great until all hell broke lose. Suddenly the car started shaking noticeably with a strong rubber burning smell. The car would still drive but the engine would make strange noise but would not turn off. The shaking reduces visibly if put in neutral gear. The heating does not show any heating etc. Also, the engine light has started to blink. What could be the problem here? Is it a transmission problem?

#2445 of 2544 Re: Car wobbles, burning smell, engine light [jaganrvce] by puttering

Jan 01, 2009 (12:59 pm)

Replying to: jaganrvce (Dec 25, 2008 11:45 am)
Your description of the symptoms is hard to comprehend, A rubber burning smell might be a tire rubbing on something, or a belt or hose slipping or melting. Shaking stopping when put in neutral might be a lot of different things rangeing from an engine not running right, to a bad motor or transmission mount, to a transmission problem or axle problem, maybe a bad ball joint also. You could go to an Autozone or Advanceautoparts store, and they will loan you for free, a code scanner that will plug into your dashboard, and give you a readout from the car's computer as to why the check engine light is on.

#2446 of 2544 Re: Car wobbles, burning smell, engine light [jaganrvce] by gyates

Jan 02, 2009 (9:33 pm)

Replying to: jaganrvce (Dec 25, 2008 11:45 am)
This is totally a guess on my part, but the no heat, burning rubber smell, and rough running sounds like it could be a water pump seizing. My daughter's boyfriend has an Xterra and it had very similar symptoms when the water pump was going out a couple of weeks ago.
 
Also, have you changed the timing belt yet? I know the V6 is good for 105k, not sure about the 4 cylinder belt, but it may only be 60k.

#2447 of 2544 Idle Air Control Motor /transmission by eve1969

Jan 13, 2009 (12:02 pm)

I Just bought a 1997 Mazda 626 and I'm having some problems with the car. at first it started to stall on me. and it seamed it was loosing power and the gears would not shift. I took it to the mechanic and he did the Diagnostic and found a bunch of codes which he said they were all related to the same part. so he replaced the EGR valve cylinoid and Solenoid Valve. I thought that was going to fix my problem but no It was still doing the same thing. I took it back and they said they need to replace the Air Inlet Boot and do the Transmission Fluid. But that it still needed the Idle control Valve. It's running a little better but is not 100 percent. I did another Diagnostic and it came up with 6 codes need help. the codes are P0171- P0300-P1131-P1130-P1506 and P1744. Please help any suggestions.

Messages Page 245 of 255

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