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Sedans Mazda 626 Mazda 626 Troubles
2476 messages, Last post on Nov 12, 2009 at 12:00 PM
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| HELLO THERE I HAVE 2000 MAZDA 626 2.5 AND I JUST REPLACED THE WATER PUMP, HARMONIC BALANCER, TIMING BELT, TIMING BELT PULLIES, ALL THE DRIVING BELTS, SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES AND NOW WHEN I GO OVER 65 MPH THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT BLINKS AND THE CODES SAYS MISFIRE CYLINDER ONE I BELIEVE DONT KNOW TO MUCH ABOUT CARS BUT I REALLY NEED SOME IDEAS IF ANY ONE HAS HAD PROBLEM KINDA OF THE SORT PLEASE LET ME KNOW | |
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what a coincidence my car just started running rought and the engine light was flashing on and off when it was switching gears. Meaning when I hit 40 and then 50-60. Had my oil changed to day at monroe and the mechanic just driving it said it was misfiring and it was because of my wire kit. I just had a tune up not even a year ago and when he showed me the middle plug that is on the thing the oil goes into, it was white and not catching the sparks from the plug. So I would have your wire kit and plugs checked if they are both fine I was told it can be injector or your coil. I have a 99 mazda 626 lx. I am sure it will probably be your wire kit especially if the are the duralast brand purchased from auto zone. Hope this helps |
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Hello, I am at the end of my rope with this problem. Let me start by letting you know what I did do to try to fix my problem. I have changed both fans, cleaned and flushed the radiator, bought a new radiator, both of the radiator caps have been changed, I changed the thermostat, change every possible hose that I could find on the car, change the water pump, there are no leaks and if I accelerate in the car the gauge goes to the cool side. After the car was inspected the engine light came on and the car ran rough. I changed the sparks plugs and that took care of some of the problem but not all, the car still runs hot, the gauge goes to the middle toward the hot side. I have tried everything that I know to do and the hot problem is still there. All of the parts are new, so could it be something internal. What could I be missing? I have also changed the Universal Catylic converter. Please advise me on what the problem could be. Thank you for your help in advance.
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Tuesday means Mazda chat night! Mazda ownership is not a requirement!  Just bring yourself and your love of cars and the desire to discuss anything and everything automotive and you're good to go! The chat opens at 8:45 pm ET and runs until 10 pm ET. I hope you're able to join us tonight to meet and greet with your fellow CarSpace members! See you there! |
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Hey , I'm needing to check the thermostat on my 2006 V6 but don't know where to look. I need to know how to get to it and remove it. Can anyone tell me and hopefully post a pic or link? I'm new to working on cars so please be direct. The problem I am having is that the heat blows cold when at idle and the temp gage is all over the place. Heat works fine when accelerating but at a stand still, nada. Added coolant but problem persists. P.S. Should there be more than just a few ounces of coolant in the overflow? Also, when I remove the cap, there is none showing at all. Should I be able to see some? Maybe I did not add enough.
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I have a1994 626 hatch, i bought it 13 months ago, it stalls when turning right, when the fuel is low, the more i accelerate ,the quicker it stalls, i've asked several mechanics & none seem to know what is wrong, up until recently, so long as i kept fuel level above a quarter it was ok, but now it's doing it even with plenty of fuel, any advice would be appreciated ty Dave |
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Replying to: cmazda1994 (Oct 18, 2008 10:09 pm) |
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Just got off the phone with a mechanic who claims that the motor in my 2001 Mazda 626 is "fried". The car has 115,000 miles on it. I want to check with you all to see if you think he's right. Here's the situation: Saturday, I drove my car on a 100 mile trip with absolutely no problems. Pulled it into the parking lot and went to bed. Early Sunday morning I started the car and immediately the Check Engine light flashed twice. There was little power in the engine and a "rattling" sound from under the hood (right side). I had to get to where I was going so I went ahead and babied the car along (very little power) until it finally wouldn't go any further. I know that it was an idiotic thing to do and I'm probably paying the price. Since I am out of town I had it towed to the nearest garage and they have been working on it since Monday. Monday, the mechanic told me the plugs were fouled and said that the car needed a tune-up. Said that he was going to replace the plugs and the ignition wires. I told him that I didn't think that was the problem, but he insisted that he needed to do it to get it to run. Tuesday, I checked with them and they said that the new plugs fouled immediately when trying to run the car. Said that he was going to try to do a wet and dry test (I think he means a compression test). Wednesday (today), he said that air was being sucked in through the exhaust and that the engine was "fried". Said that the oil was 2.5 quarts low when it was towed in (though when I checked it, it showed full). They're supposed to get me a price for replacing the engine. If the engine truly is blown, so be it... But I can't figure out why the car would run absolutely fine on Saturday and then have a catastrophic failure on Sunday. If anyone would like to offer their opinions or their sympathy on the loss of my beloved 626, I would be grateful! Thanks! 
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Replying to: okieopie (Oct 29, 2008 7:09 am) Air sucking from the exhaust? How did he determine that?!! I think I'd do a "cylinder leakdown test" before tearing into this engine, unless the mechanic can take a part and stick it under your nose for you to see some horrendous damage. Possibilities? cracked head? Loss of oil during the night, resulting in engine damage while being run? Leaking injector filled crankcase with gasoline, washing cylinders of oil causing damage? How is the whole engine "fried"? Top and bottom? All the parts are bad? Has he pulled the cylinder head off? Way too little information here.
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Oct 29, 2008 8:56 am) There was no loss of oil in the parking lot during the night. The car showed symptoms immediately upon starting (the flashing check engine light, loss of power). I'll check with him what he means when he says the plugs were "fouled" -- He showed me one of the plugs and it did look black and burned. From what he was saying to me, it seemed that he was meaning that it was fouled with gas that wasn't burning off. As far as the other questions, I'll ask him about those magical glasses Thanks for your help... |
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