Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
Sedans Mazda 626 Mazda 626 Troubles
2476 messages, Last post on Nov 12, 2009 at 12:00 PM
You are in the Mazda 626 Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
|
|
|---|---|
I have a 626 Mazda and it runs fine been driving it a year and the other day it started jerking as i was on the freeway seems like it was the transmission the overdrive light keep coming on even though it was off.i can get up to 90 and it will run good and all of a sudden it will start again and i lose RPMs and it jerks could someone please help me.
|
|
|
|
| My Mazda started jerking the other day felt like the transmission the over drive light came on allthough i keep it off please help me. | |
|
Replying to: parnell1234 (Sep 11, 2008 11:57 pm) One quick question: Does the O/D light "Flash" when on extended highway trips? If it does, you might have a "known" Mazda Service Issue. I have a 1998 Mazda 626 4 Cyl Automatic and for some reason if I am Driving at 70 mph and let off the gas pedal my O/D Light Flashes and continues to do so until I stop and turn off the car, let it cool for about 10 minutes and then restart it again. However while I am driving with the O/D light flashing (at lower speeds) I experience very hard switching in gears. After a full stop, when I start up again the transmission will shift into second with a bang then into third with a milder thump. However this does not happen every time I drive 70 mph (Usually after an hour of highway driving.) I spoke with a guy who rebuilds these transmissions. He said that when the O/D light "flashes", it is caused by a malfunction within the computer or a minor defect in the transmission. When the light goes on, it enters a Fail-Safe mode… (the EPC solenoid opens up and brings line pressure up to 'max') ... the only catch is it raises the fluid pressure well beyond normal specs (it goes from 100 to 400 PSI). It is at this time where you get your major failures. (Mazda switched the Automatic 626 to OBD II around the 1996 model year, so if you have a '96 or later, you'll need a full-fledged OBD II-compatible scan tool.) A Mazda Technical Service Bulletin exists for some 1999-2001 models. TSB 05-005/02 deals with one specific circumstance: "After extended highway driving, the O/D off light is blinking and code P1783 is set (excessive ATF temperature). Occasionally there will be overflow through the dipstick tube and harsh shifting. Mazda's recommended fix is to replace the radiator and to install an auxiliary cooler for the transmission." It sure can not hurt to tell your mechanic to examine the Mazda Technical Service Bulletin 05-005/02. Keep in mind that once your car goes in safe mode, your transmission fluid will get burnt up real fast. A transmission cooler cost about 40-50 bucks, and will extend the life of the poorly designed Mazda/Ford transmission. You will need to replace your transmission fluid during the install (if burnt) and read the directions on the cooler to adapt for any additional fluid. Search on the internet for a Hayden Transmission Cooler, either Hayden 404 or Hayden 679... I prefer Hayden 404 because it has bigger piping than the 679 which doesn't restrict tranny fluid flow (Some use B&M Super Coolers). Some people also recommend going with a synthetic transmission fluid (Supertech 2000 synthetic fluid for cheaper alternative). Some people have also claimed that by using Honda's transmission fluid (Dexron I instead of Mazda's Dexron III). The thicker Honda Fluid w/ Honda's special additives have caused a rebirth to their Mazda transmissions. You can also consider installing a Tranny Temp Gauge so that you can see the difference the cooler makes (and know when to stop prior to an transmission overheat.) I would recommend printing out this and showing it to a trusted mechanic. |
|
|
|
|
hello sorry for my English as I live in Russia and badly I speak english I own the MAZDA 626 GF 2000year. 2,5 V6 car a super on mechanical transmission that at you a rarity has arisen a problem  )) I will be short. It is necessary for me buy a tank broad KLG4-15-350C who every body to help, I have found already there where to conveniently my friend to buy TOMS RIVER MAZDA HIGHWAY 37 EAST TOMS RIVER, NJ 08754 Phone: whether 732-341-2900 it is necessary to learn there is there this detail and how many costs? In advance all thanks |
|
|
|
| HELLO THERE I HAVE 2000 MAZDA 626 2.5 AND I JUST REPLACED THE WATER PUMP, HARMONIC BALANCER, TIMING BELT, TIMING BELT PULLIES, ALL THE DRIVING BELTS, SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES AND NOW WHEN I GO OVER 65 MPH THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT BLINKS AND THE CODES SAYS MISFIRE CYLINDER ONE I BELIEVE DONT KNOW TO MUCH ABOUT CARS BUT I REALLY NEED SOME IDEAS IF ANY ONE HAS HAD PROBLEM KINDA OF THE SORT PLEASE LET ME KNOW | |
|
what a coincidence my car just started running rought and the engine light was flashing on and off when it was switching gears. Meaning when I hit 40 and then 50-60. Had my oil changed to day at monroe and the mechanic just driving it said it was misfiring and it was because of my wire kit. I just had a tune up not even a year ago and when he showed me the middle plug that is on the thing the oil goes into, it was white and not catching the sparks from the plug. So I would have your wire kit and plugs checked if they are both fine I was told it can be injector or your coil. I have a 99 mazda 626 lx. I am sure it will probably be your wire kit especially if the are the duralast brand purchased from auto zone. Hope this helps |
|
|
|
|
Hello, I am at the end of my rope with this problem. Let me start by letting you know what I did do to try to fix my problem. I have changed both fans, cleaned and flushed the radiator, bought a new radiator, both of the radiator caps have been changed, I changed the thermostat, change every possible hose that I could find on the car, change the water pump, there are no leaks and if I accelerate in the car the gauge goes to the cool side. After the car was inspected the engine light came on and the car ran rough. I changed the sparks plugs and that took care of some of the problem but not all, the car still runs hot, the gauge goes to the middle toward the hot side. I have tried everything that I know to do and the hot problem is still there. All of the parts are new, so could it be something internal. What could I be missing? I have also changed the Universal Catylic converter. Please advise me on what the problem could be. Thank you for your help in advance.
|
|
|
Tuesday means Mazda chat night! Mazda ownership is not a requirement! Just bring yourself and your love of cars and the desire to discuss anything and everything automotive and you're good to go! The chat opens at 8:45 pm ET and runs until 10 pm ET. I hope you're able to join us tonight to meet and greet with your fellow CarSpace members! See you there! |
|
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2002 Mazda 626
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats
