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Mazda 626 Troubles

2476 messages,  Last post on Nov 12, 2009 at 12:00 PM

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What is this discussion about? Mazda 626, Sedan

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#2394 of 2476 Re: 2000 Mazda 626 Clutch Problems [kew423] by p100 May 29, 2008 (2:10 pm)
Replying to: kew423 (May 29, 2008 7:20 am) Most likely the internal clutch master cylinder seals failed. This only affects the clutch release hydraulic circuit, not the clutch itself. The same thing happened to my car at 130k miles. Mazda 626 does not have the best clutch master cylinders or slave cylinders. You need to either install a new master/slave cylinders, or have them rebuilt. Then you need to bleed the lines to get rid of trapped air. Do not let them talk to you into replacing the clutch without fixing the clutch release mechanism first!   If you needed a new clutch, the cost of replacing one at a dealer (parts plus labor is about $ 800). This does not include replacing/rebuilding the master or slave cylinders. And it does not include machining or replacing the engine flywheel if it needs it.
#2395 of 2476 Re: 2000 Mazda 626 Clutch Problems [kew423] by Mr_Shiftright HOST May 30, 2008 (7:19 am)
Replying to: kew423 (May 29, 2008 7:20 am) p100 is correct. If your clutch failed the symptom would not be the pedal going quickly to the floor and staying there. The pedal itself would feel quite normal even with a burned out clutch. So it's a hydraulic issue, not a clutch issue, we suspect.
#2396 of 2476 Tire trouble by backy Jun 07, 2008 (4:00 pm)
Left front tire on my 2000 626 ES I4, 97k miles, with 16" factory alloys is losing air, down nearly 14 pounds in one week, just sitting on a driveway. Had a tire shop check it a couple of weeks ago, and they said it looked ok and they couldn't see any leak. It has been patched before. If I have to buy a new tire (actually at least two), I will, but I don't want to do that then find out the problem is with the alloy wheel. I've heard (and the tire dealer mentioned) that sometimes alloy wheels can develop leaks. Anyone hear of that happening with the 626's wheels? (Cosmetically they are in excellent shape.) And if the wheel is leaking, is there any way to repair it?   My son drives this car 210 miles each way to college, so I need to do something before he goes back in August--I don't want it blowing on the freeway. Replies to this message: p100 (Jun 07, 2008 5:40 pm) backy (Jun 07, 2008 7:02 pm) p100 (Jun 07, 2008 7:51 pm)
#2397 of 2476 MOTOR SWAP by kitchen33 Jun 07, 2008 (4:39 pm)
i want to put the 2.5 liter v6 motor in my car because im tired of the 4 cylinder, i was wanting to know if the v6 would mount straignt on to the transmission that is in the car already Replies to this message: p100 (Jun 07, 2008 5:44 pm)
#2398 of 2476 Re: Tire trouble [backy] by p100 Jun 07, 2008 (5:40 pm)
Replying to: backy (Jun 07, 2008 4:00 pm) Have them take the tire off the rim and carefully inspect on the inside. How did they patch the tire last time? With a plug or patch or patch/plug combo? I have seen patches applied to the inside of the tire curl up and start leaking shortly after being applied because of poor surface preparation, and if they were too close to the sidewall. It is also possible that you can have a piece of wire of thin nail in the thread and you cannot see it.   I seriously doubt your rim is leaking, unless it is severely rusted in the bead area or dented. Replies to this message: backy (Jun 07, 2008 7:02 pm) p100 (Jun 07, 2008 7:51 pm)
#2399 of 2476 Re: MOTOR SWAP [kitchen33] by p100 Jun 07, 2008 (5:44 pm)
Replying to: kitchen33 (Jun 07, 2008 4:39 pm) This will not work. The transaxles are different, especially the automatic version, wiring harness is different, engine management computer is probably different, exhaust is different, V6 cars have four wheel disc brakes, bigger diameter axle shafts, bigger radiators, etc.   This project is not worth even attempting, unless you had a complete V6 donor car that you could use the parts from. Older V6 Mazda 626s are cheap to buy. Sell yours and find a decent V6.
#2400 of 2476 Re: Tire trouble [p100] by backy Jun 07, 2008 (7:02 pm)
Replying to: p100 (Jun 07, 2008 5:40 pm) Thanks very much for the reply. The tire shop did inspect the rim, said it looked OK. They said the patch looked OK too, but it might be hard to spot a slow leak. They did not patch the tire before, another shop did (it was some kid, on a Sunday, so not sure what kind of quality job they did). Not sure what kind of patch it is.   The wheel doesn't seem to be rusted or dented, and the tire shop didn't see anything. What I'll probably do is take it back there and have them inspect the wheel again, and if it looks good go ahead and buy 2 new tires for the front.
#2401 of 2476 Re: Tire trouble [p100] by p100 Jun 07, 2008 (7:51 pm)
Replying to: p100 (Jun 07, 2008 5:40 pm) Another possibility is that somebody damaged the tire bead when they removed and reinstalled the tire last time. If they did not use soapy water to lube the tire bead, they could have made a tear in the bead, which will then cause a slow leak
#2402 of 2476 99 626 Idle Surge by gyates Jul 10, 2008 (10:45 am)
My daughter has a 99 626 ES V6 that is having an unusual idle issue. When the A/C is on and car is either in park or stopped, the idle will surge as high as 1800 rpm. While driving it is fine, only when parked or sitting at a traffic light. Anyone else have an issue like this? Could it be the IAC Valve (I hope not)? This problem does not happen with a/c off. Car has 125k and has been very well maintained by us. As an example, when she gets in and starts the car up each day, as soon as she turns on the a/c it immediately surges. Replies to this message: askperry (Sep 11, 2008 8:21 am) gyates (Dec 18, 2008 2:26 pm)
#2403 of 2476 2000 626 w/ 2.0 vin C Flooding URGENT!!!!! by shanes56164 Jul 14, 2008 (3:20 pm)
I'm gonna beg for some new Ideas here. We're working on getting this car running after the owner installed a salvage yard motor himself, and after repairing all other possible causes, we're starting to conclude that the final problem remains in the fuel rail. we belive that either the regulator is bad, or all the injectors are faulty. Here's a rundown of the situation:   Replaced: fuel filter, fuel pump, plugs, wires, converter   checked and found correct: timing belt and timing marks, fuel pressure, Injector pulse, injector resistance reading, spark from coil pack.   symptoms:   standing fuel in all cylinders after attempt to start, no fuel pressure or flow on return line after the regulator, full 80 psi to all injectors, when running, runs at 300-500 rpm, but only on 2 cyl.   any help will be greatfully accepted!!!!!

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