Last post on Nov 16, 2013 at 8:34 AM
You are in the Mazda 626
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Mazda 626, Sedan
#2378 of 2547 Mazda 626 diesel don't start after long running
Apr 29, 2008 (1:00 am)
I have a Mazda 626 2.0tdi dated 1998, over 300.000Km Is an european model
When the engine run for a long time, for example 1-2 hours of highway drive,if I stop it an restart , even within only some seconds, it never start again. The first times it happen, I need to wait 5-10 minutes, now I have to pass a intere night to cool down , and then restart. The only way to start the engine when is hot, is a starter spray (wurth fast start) in the air input (removing air filter). A garage man says that is the tank pump that have a pressure to low. This can be, but I don't understand ho can the engine run for hours at 130km/h without problems, and stopping it for a second cause the no start. Any idea
Thanks a lot
#2379 of 2547 Re: 626 transmission problems [charb]
May 04, 2008 (4:59 pm)
There are no issues with the V6 manual transmissions. I have a '99 ES V6 5 speed with 196k miles and no problems with the manual transmission. The only problem I had was with the clutch master cylinder seals, which failed at about 130K and clutch pedal sank to the floor, making the car undriveable. . But this is a relatively inexpensive repair requiring either the cylinder rebuild or a new cylinder which costs about $ 100.
#2380 of 2547 Re: Need opinions on Rear-end noise - 2001 626 [kburkes]
May 05, 2008 (8:04 pm)
Have the same issues with my 99LX and now my 2002 ES. Doesnt make a cuckoo noise, but rattles like crazy. Both car did/do the same thing. I agree with another poster that the strut towers seem to be the culprit. It is an annoying noise.
#2381 of 2547 Re: 626 Misfire?? [askperry]
May 08, 2008 (5:09 pm)
Thank you very much, I understand the idea now. This should be very handy in troubleshooting my problem!
#2382 of 2547 Re: Need opinions on Rear-end noise - 2001 626 [626rock]
May 10, 2008 (8:09 pm)
I too had those pesky gremlins in our DoubleOught 626 from day one. Dealer could Not reproduce in shop! The rattle is not constant but annoying non the less.80k
had rear struts replaced,no change in rattle.Mechanic said "sounds like a loose
#2383 of 2547 99 ES V6 Surge at Idle
May 21, 2008 (9:47 am)
My daughter's 99 V6 has developed a surge when idling with the a/c on. Idle jumps from normal 750 range to 1700 (and as high as 2000) as the compressor cycles. No CEL is on, and there has not been any recent work on the car. Anyone else experienced this? The car has approx 120k. Timing belt was replaced at 105k as recommended in the book, along with the other belts. Car runs fine otherwise, and no surge is noticed while driving, just while at idle, in gear or park.
#2384 of 2547 Re: 99 ES V6 Surge at Idle [gyates]
May 22, 2008 (3:33 pm)
I never experienced that with my "99 ES V6 with 198K+ miles on it. The normal idle variation with A/C compressor cycling is about 700 -1000 RPM. My car has a 5 speed manual transmission.
I believe there is an idle control valve on this car - you may have a problem in that area.
#2385 of 2547 Re: 99 ES V6 Surge at Idle [p100]
May 23, 2008 (8:26 am)
I thought about the idle air control valve as a possibility. On my Explorer, when this part went out, the truck would just die at idle though.
May 23, 2008 (11:39 am)
I own a Mazda 626 LX V6 1998 and i have the following problems:
for the past 4-5 years i had been getting the check engine light with the P1131 code. it is suppose to be an idicator of one of your oxygen sensors. I have replaced that Oxygen sensor in 4 occassions, and all of them twice already ever since. As i write i still get the light on. The light will go away for a few months but will return.
It drives me crazy.
The other problem is a noise that i guees is something lose in the back. Muffler? it makes a noise (its a metal). 2 dift. mechanics tried to solve the issues, but nothing. THey both said that it was not the suspension.
third i have replaced the reservoir 3 times, and over heated 3 more times due to other leakeage. its a pain, since i don't know what is trigerring this. fans are working and thermostat is doing well.
hesitation, high rpm's, bad fuel economy 12.5 city and 24 highway had been an issue from day one. used premium for all these years. not sure waht is wrong. i am sort of ready to sell this car, but if there was something to fix this one.
i have seen that some people have posted to have the same problems and so on. also cars with 196000 miles on it. quite honestly, if i had that many in my car, i would not mind if my car broke on me. No disrispect, but i think that's a lot of miles on a car.
but anyway, if anyone can help me, it will greatly appreciated. I only putting about 5000 miles per year lately, so if the car was to give an extra 2-3 yrs i wouldn't mind. specially as the economy goes. but if not, i wouldn't mind to pull the trigger on a accor 08 or a camry 09.
power windows are the other issue, but i don't care so much about that one yet.
my car is 115,600 miles.
#2387 of 2547 4-cylinder 2002 maintenance
May 24, 2008 (8:00 am)
Hello p100 and thanks once again for your fabulous efforts in informing 626 owners about the ins and outs of car care.
I have had no real issues with my 626, and I am quite pleased with the car. I do not do my own maintenance, but I have a mechanic who is a family friend and whose family has been in business in my area of Montreal for fifty years - he is fantastic.
My car is the 2.0 L 4-cyl. with 5-speed. Some questions:
Would this motor benefit from the injector cleaner, as your 2.4 does? What about the EGR passages with the 2.0 L? I would imagine the coolant overflow bottle is the same on my car, so I'll mention it to my mechanic. I would imagine the AC compressor is the same, so I'll keep an eye on that as well. The rest of what you mention is regular maintenance. I am really easy on the clutch, and it's friction point is still very close to the floorboard. I never ride the clutch or lug the car, two practices that must be followed to extend clutch life. My car currently is at 150 K km.
My main concern is with the suspension. The roads in Montreal are horrendous, this city has to be the pothole capital of the world. I would love to upgrade the suspension to handle the brutal pounding on the chassis. Right now, I need bushings for the trapezoidal links in the rear (done 30 K km ago). I have done one CV, and there is a noise from the other one. My mechanic is suggesting new shocks, but the labor cost is high. Do you know of any high quality, heavy duty, lifetime guarantee stuff out there for the suspension? I would be willing to invest in new shocks, but what kind and is there a benefit, other than improved ride quality? Can you do two shocks at a time instead of all four in one shot?