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Sedans Mazda 626 Mazda 626 Troubles
2476 messages, Last post on Nov 12, 2009 at 12:00 PM
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I have a 99 mazda 626 4 cylinder it overheated on the express way and shut off now it wont start. had to have it towed back home, i fixed the leak it had, one of the small radiator hoses behind the exhaust manifold was cracked,I also replaced the spark plugs but still wont start, it cranks but will not start. I charged the battery and still it cranks but will not start. I took off the valve cover just to see the timing belt and it looks good its even tight so Can anyone help me with this problem?
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Replying to: sharkpimp (Mar 24, 2008 2:45 pm) liketolearn |
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I have a 98 mazda 626 and it just stopped running. The check engine light has been on only for a couple of days and I replaced the coil, thats not the problem, what else could it be?? Please help
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Replying to: liketolearn (Mar 22, 2008 8:19 pm) |
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I have 193k miles on my '99 ES V6 5 speed and it is still running great. There are some issues/ maintenance tips associated with this car that I want to share: 1. This engine (2.5 liter , 24 valve V6) likes premium 93 octane. It performs better and gets better fuel economy. I get 25-26 MPG consistently in city driving with A/C on all the time (in Florida). Do not use regular gas if you have this engine. Mazda recommends premium fuel for best performance and there is a reason for it. My car seems to like BP, Sunoco , and Mobil fuels the best for some reason. Stay away from no name brand gas stations. 2. Use a bottle of Chevron Techron injector cleaner in your gas tank about every 4k miles. Mix with approximately 8 gallons of gas and drive until the tank is almost empty. This cleaner does marvels when used regularly and keeps injectors clean. I have never had injectors cleaned int his car and the engine is silky smooth. 3. Change spark plug leads and spark plugs about every 60k miles. There is a good reason for this. The plugs are located in deep wells betweent he cams and spark plug lead boots are very long and subjected to very high temperatures, so they degrade over time. Use the recommended OEM Denso plugs. Bosh plugs are not recommended for these engines and do not perform too well in them. OEM Denso plugs are expensive, but you can get them at a much more reasonable cost from sparkplugs.com (about $ 7 per plug vs $ 19 per plug from your Mazda dealer). A set of OEM plug leads for the 6 cylinder is about $ 130 right now. I have fooud that the electrode gap on the spark plugs increases from 0.030 spec gap to 0.060 inches in about 60k miles. So replace the plugs every 60k. 4. This particular car has a design flaw with the EGR engine block passages. These passages are too narrow and get caked with carbon over time. The EGR valve itself is practically bulletproof - it is ab electrically ooperated, liquid cooled valve. If you get the engine code P400 (insufficient EGR flow), most often this means clogged EGR passaged throughout the engine block. The solution is to remove the throttle body, and the upper intake manifold, get a small caliber gun (like22) cleaning brush and throughly brush the ERG passage in the engine block and the intake manifold and liberally spray out with carburetor cleaner. You will need to replace one throttle body gasket, and two intake manifold gaskets, and well as two fuel banjo fitting copper washers. This is the only way to do this right. Cleaning only the EGR passage opening in the intake manifold just past the throttle body will work only for a while. 5. Coolant overflow bottle: This is a defective item on this model and Mazda should be ashamed that they sell such junk as a replacement part. I have installed 5 of these coolant overflow reservoirs on my car by now, because each lasts about 18 months before it develops a slow leak. Mazda dealer admits there is a problem and they keep these things in stock. The price is outrageous - about $ 90 list price. 6. Brakes are practically bulletproof on this model - I am on the second set of pads and still original brake rotors at 193K miles. There is still life left in the pads and rotors are not distorted or grooved. 7. There are no issues with the manual transaxle, but the clutch master cylinders are not that reliable - the seals in mine failed after 130k miles. When this happens, the clutch will not release and you cannot drive the car. 8. The A/C compressor clutch bearing failed on mine at 135 K miles and it destroyed the compressor shaft seal, so i had to buy a new compressor. 9. There OEM CV joints/axles are of low quality and upgrading them is a good idea. 10. Change oil frequently, and use only Mazda OEM oil filters or a good aftermarket filter with an anti drain membrane. This keeps the oil from draining from the cylinder head when the engine is shut off, preventing oil starvation of sensitive cam journal bearings when starting a cold engine. 11. Replacing the timing belt on this car is not easy and you should also replace the cam and front crank oil seal, water pump and all three tensioner timing belt pulleys. Auto Zone offers a timing belt kit for this car that contains all three tensioner pulleys and the belt for about $ 100. These pulleys from Mazda are outrageously expensive - they were about $ 180 a piece about 5 years ago. I replace the timing belt on this car every 105k miles, although they recommend it every 60k miles. However, Mazda sells only one timing belt - and it is a 105k miles belt, as some state require the timing belt replacement interval to be that. My engine runs strong at 193k miles - I see no degradation in mileage or performance. The engine does not use oil and does not smoke upon startup. I am still on the original radiator, alternator, and starter. The original paint is of excellent quality and still shiny after all these years in harsh Florida sun. Of course, I wash the car frequently by hand and use ZipCar wash wax containing soap, which keeps the paint looking like new.
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My car overheats when i drive, it cools down a lil bit when im stopped or i let go of the gas for a period of time, but everytim i accelerate the car goes well past the H, i checked my coolant system and at first my reservoir was empty and my radiator full, when the car overheated, everything that was in the radiator went to the reservoir and made it over flow, and my hoses were collapsed, anybody know what the problem might be? -Fans work -Coolant full
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Replying to: mikeinho (Apr 13, 2008 10:23 am) |
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hello, I was searching for information on a little trouble im having with my girlfriends car when I came accross Carspace. first i would like to say this is a great site with tons of info. now my troubles. she owns a 96 626, on friday it started shaking a little, we thought it was just due to it being a bit overdue for a tuneup so on saturday I gave it the treatment, plugs, wires, cap rotor, filters etc. well it didnt fix the problem the car idles like crap and wont stay at steady RPM fluctuating between 500 and 750 and dying out, funny thing is that once i get it on the road it rides really really good no issues no sputtering, no hesitation, runs like a dream. check engine light was on so I took it to autozone and they said it was a misfire but I check and rechecked every ignition component with no luck. so again car runs near excellent at speed but Idles really bad. can anyone help?
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Replying to: galcala (Apr 21, 2008 9:06 am) You might check for a bad vacuum leak somewhere. That would give you all the symptoms you mention as well as correct itself at highway speeds. Also a clogged or malfunctioning EGR valve or tubing.
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Apr 21, 2008 9:38 am)
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