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Sedans Mazda 626 Mazda 626 Troubles
2475 messages, Last post on Nov 08, 2009 at 7:28 PM
You are in the Mazda 626 Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: killroy (Mar 29, 2000 7:29 pm) I own a mazda mx6. Recently i was told that my catalytic converter was blocked. My car has not been shifting gears and going very sluggish like at times i cannot get it to go above 20 mph. I was wondering if there was a quick fix to this because im about to trade my car for a honda prelude and i have to get it to the guy because we are trading cars. He is aware of the problem but at the moment i just dont think my car will make it there. IF you could let me know if there is any way i can make my car work for a short period of time that would be great. thankyou.
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Replying to: l3ehindblue3ye (Sep 23, 2007 6:23 pm) |
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Replying to: zillah (Aug 18, 2007 5:34 am) |
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Replying to: latino20782 (Sep 20, 2007 5:36 pm) One issue common to these cars is clogging of the EGR passages in the intake manifold and engine block with carbon. This results in engine light coming on, sometimes intermittently. The code is I believe P400 (insufficient EGR flow). The way to fix this issue is to remove the throttle body and spray carb cleaner into two passages on the bottom of the intake manifold just past the throttle body. These are EGR passages. They run through the manifold and the engine block all the way to the EGR valve. Replacing the EGR valve will not fix this problem! It is an electric valve and very expensive - about $ 350, even from aftermarket sources. So do not replace it unless you are absolutely sure it needs to be replaced. But first find out what the trouble code is in your case. At 92k miles you should: replace the timing belt if it has not been done already (recommended at 60k), including all three tensioner pulleys. Auto Zone sells a nice timing belt kit that includes the timing belt and all three pulleys for something like $ 100. Do not even try to price these from Mazda, as it will be about $ 700! And bearings wear out in these pulleys believe me! I replaced mine at 105K miles. Also, check the tensioner pulleys on the engine drive belts. The pulley bearings tend to go bad. You can buy replacement bearings, but you need a hydraulic press to pres them in and it is a tricky process. New pulleys are expensive - almost $ 100 a piece. Even aftermarket ones are expensive. You should think about replacing the plug wires if it has not been done already. What about brakes? Are pads in good shape? Check the outer CV joint boots. They often start splitting around 90-100k miles. You may want to change the water pump if you do the timing belt. Be warned - changing the timing belt on this car is not easy! I have done it myself so I know. You need to remove the front engine mount to install a new belt and to replace the water pump. I do not recommend this job to anybody without sufficient experience. You are best off finding a good mechanic to do this. There is a lot of pitfalls associated with this job. |
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I'm not sure if it's relevant but I just had my 1991 626 LX brought into the shop to have the ignition cylinder/keys replaced and the air flow valve because the other one had a leak. That said, here's the problem. My fiancee was going to leave for work today and noticed the shoulder restraint motor was moving slowly. She tried starting the car but it wouldn't work. She only got minor accessories - the car would crank but not start. We figured the battery must've gotten drained because the accessories could've been left on over night (our car somehow allows this). So I came home to give the car a jumpstart and off to work she went. She called me and said that the car wouldn't start again, so the alternator must not have had a chance to do its job, even though she let it idle for a half hour in addition to the five minute drive to her job. I came over to her place of work to give her another jumpstart and so we went home, with me following in case she got stranded. Sure enough, one block from our house, the car died at a stop light. I came around and tried to give her a jumpstart again but this time the car wouldn't start. It would crank but not turn, as if my car's battery weren't connected. We brought the battery to Wal-Mart to have it tested and charged. They gave it a clean bill of health and said it was charged, ready to go. After putting the battery back in the car, it wouldn't even crank. Dead as a doornail. This is extremely frustrating, especially after spending over $500 on the above repairs. Does any one have any idea what could be the cause or solution to this problem? Thanks so much!
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Replying to: phinneas519 (Oct 08, 2007 6:17 pm) |
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I have a 1998 Mazda 626 ES-V6. It has 174,000miles on it. I have had this problem with the transmission for a month now. It shifts into 2nd but with hesitation. It does not go past second. I had a reconditioned box put in it, still the same story. I was told it is an electrical problem with some sensor, solenoid, or relay. Where are these part located in the car. Has any one out there experienced anything like this please. Will appreciate if you can share the solution with me.... |
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I replaced my radiator some time last year. I don't remember were I got it from and don't have the receipt, but I'm sure I bought the cheapest one I could find. Now the radiator is leaking antifreeze under the transmission tube fitting. I don't want to make the same mistake twice. Can anyone recommend a good radiator or tell me what I should look for when shopping for a replacement radiator. Thanks in advance, Perry
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When my car is cold it makes a very high pitch screeching noise at the time of starting. I have Mazda 99 LX 4 cyl. When I use a spray on the belt before starting, this noise goes away and then next day it comes back again. This is going on for more then 2 years now. Is there a way to stop this noise. Any idea of what things it will involve during repair.
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Replying to: saeedabidi (Oct 13, 2007 12:50 pm) -Perry |
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