- #2215 of 2476
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Re: Flashing Dash Lights [p100]
by vashtie
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Nov 27, 2006 (10:34 am)
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Replying to: p100 (Nov 20, 2006 9:07 am)
Thank you. Does this repair require removing the sterring wheel? Also, any suggestions about where to obtain a switch for the 1995 Mazda 626, manual transmission, V6?
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- #2216 of 2476
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626 Grinding on Heavy Accel
by mackeybloom
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Nov 27, 2006 (12:36 pm)
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I have a 2000 626 4-cyl & Auto. Upon heavy acceleration (such as start into highway traffic or go up steep hill) I experience what can best be described as a Grinding Noise and sensation coming from the front end.  This was after the local shop replaced all motor and tranny mounts as well as transmission dynamic damper. Also replaced was right transaxle (bad) and right bearing (also bad). Upon first 'repair' it was noted that left Motor Mount was improperly aligned, since "corrected." Repair shop ending up taking car to Mazda dealer at their expense - mechanic suggested checking Motor Mounts as well as control rods and bushings (OK). Mechanic noted that front Motor Mount goes to full mechanical limit upon accel -- could a new motor mount be bad?  Any suggestions greatly and desperately appreciated.
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- #2217 of 2476
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Re: Slow to start when cold out... [caseysdubs1]
by caseysdubs1
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Nov 29, 2006 (1:10 pm)
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Replying to: caseysdubs1 (Nov 24, 2006 8:14 am)
Anyone???
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- #2218 of 2476
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Re: Slow to start when cold out... [caseysdubs1]
by pat HOST
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Nov 29, 2006 (3:13 pm)
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Replying to: caseysdubs1 (Nov 29, 2006 1:10 pm)
Try asking here as well: "No Start" Problems. That's a generic discussion, not model specific, but you may find some help there. Let us know what happens.
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- #2219 of 2476
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1995 626 ball joints
by dreamer24
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Nov 29, 2006 (7:56 pm)
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I recently took my car for an oil change... while he had it up, I asked him to look at my control arms to see what was making so much noise when I turned. He said I need to replace the ball joints. I then took the car to get another opinion. This guys says to me that I need ball joints but i have to replace the entire control arm because of something to do with it being all the same part. I don't believe him... because I found a site that sells just ball joints for a 1995 Mazda 626. Does anyone know the truth about ball joints?!?! Please help and much thanks to those that do. 
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- #2220 of 2476
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Re: 1995 626 ball joints [dreamer24]
by vantagemotors
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Dec 02, 2006 (7:30 am)
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Replying to: dreamer24 (Nov 29, 2006 7:56 pm)
You can buy the ball joint seperatly from the control arm, however I would not recommend it. The ball joints are not designed to be pressed out of the control arm and when you try to press in an aftermarket ball joint it is often a loose fit. I have seen people spot weld the aftermarket ball joints in place to keep them from pulling out, which is not safe. So the control arm is costly but it is the only safe way to repair your car.
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- #2221 of 2476
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Re: 626 Grinding on Heavy Accel [mackeybloom]
by vantagemotors
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Dec 02, 2006 (7:42 am)
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Replying to: mackeybloom (Nov 27, 2006 12:36 pm)
It is possible for a new mount to be bad, but highly unlikely, especially if was a Mazda part. When you replace all the mounts or have the trans or engine out you should "neutralize" the engine and trans. This is done by loosening all the mounts and letting the engine and trans settle into a position where the is no more stress on one mount than any other. When you tighten each mount completely at a time it may have too much stress on it. This is one possibility, another that comes to mind is the axle you had replaced. I have seen aftermarket rebuilt axles give vibrations on acceleration. It is usually because of improper machining on the inner cv joint. The only way to know for sure is to try another axle. Hope this helps.
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- #2222 of 2476
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Re: 95 626 ES steering pulls [limboandlisa]
by vantagemotors
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Dec 02, 2006 (7:45 am)
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Replying to: limboandlisa (Nov 25, 2006 12:56 pm)
If this condition started after the control arm bushing was replaced I would go back to the repair shop immediatly. It is a good chance something is misaligned or out of position with the control arm, or worse something is loose.
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- #2223 of 2476
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Re: 95 626 ES steering pulls [vantagemotors]
by limboandlisa
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Dec 02, 2006 (6:54 pm)
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Replying to: vantagemotors (Dec 02, 2006 7:45 am)
Hi, the pulling was there when we got the car a couple of weeks ago. We also replaced a rear sway bar 'bushing', looks like a dbl tie rod end, four new tires and 3 times on the alignment machine, of course things are somewhat better than before but we still have a ? not really pulling, but a drift, it will go one way without doing anything to the steering wheel, possibly a couple of feet to one side of the road and later a couple of feet in the other direction, its almost like you are sliding on ice. The strut rod bearing are worn and pop when making tight turns but I don't think that is the problem from what I have so far read. I suspect the rack-and-pinion but it is too costly to just replace without knowing for sure if that is the problem. 2 garages have looked at it and havn't seen anything like it and have no idea what is causing it.
thanks to all in advance, Limbo and Lisa
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- #2224 of 2476
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Re: 95 626 ES steering pulls [limboandlisa]
by vantagemotors
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Dec 03, 2006 (2:52 pm)
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Replying to: limboandlisa (Dec 02, 2006 6:54 pm)
If it has been checked on the alignment machine three times I would like to think they would have spotted any bent suspension pieces. In the rear suspension there are two arms on either side that come out from the center of the car to the rear spindle. It is common for these to get bent from running over something or someone hooking onto them to tow the vehicle. The alignment shop should have seen if these were bent & it would show up as the rear toe in being off badly. It would also show in abnormal tire wear ( edges wearing badly ). You mentioned strut rod bearings, I think you are refering the front upper strut bearings. If they are noisy that means they are worn and can cause some handling problems. When worn badly enough they can cause "memory steer" which means the steering wheel will not return back to center after a turn and keep the car going slightly in the same direction until you turn the other way then the same thing will happen in the opposite direction. This could also be what you are describing. As a start I would recommend you replace the bearings since you know they are worn anyway. Good luck.
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