Last post on Nov 16, 2013 at 8:34 AM
You are in the Mazda 626
What is this discussion about?
Mazda 626, Sedan
#2179 of 2547 Re: 1999 mazda 626 stereo problem [aragdoll]
Oct 01, 2006 (3:06 pm)
It's an internal problem with the radio and yes, you have to replace it. It's your choice whether you put another factory radio or an aftermarket. Personally I would put an aftermarket unit in. The factory radios were known to have LCD display and volume button problems. If you do go after market, buy a wiring harness adapter kit, they work really well and save you from cutting up the factory harness.
#2180 of 2547 Re: Alternator belts braking [p100]
Oct 01, 2006 (5:16 pm)
Thanks for your reply. I feel foolish but was talking to a friend that owns a auto shop at a cruise in and he said he would try taking up the play in the belt to see if that helped. It corrected the problem. However, I am not too red faced as when this first started the belts had little play. this model does not have a tensioner or I would have tried that before the alternator. Sometimes you can not see the forest for the trees. thanks again. carguy32
#2181 of 2547 Re: 1996 Mazda 626 has no compression in all four cylinders [dadio]
Oct 07, 2006 (6:13 am)
does any one knows why wehn it rains water comes in on the r/side of my 99 626 passanger side carpet is wet front and back...driver side ok????
Oct 08, 2006 (4:21 pm)
I'm having tail light trouble, the brake lights work, however the tail lights don't I have changed the bulbs and they still don't work. Any suggestions?
#2183 of 2547 Re: 1995 Mazda [allcars1]
Oct 09, 2006 (7:19 pm)
Bulb type. You should use a dual filament type. #1157, and also verify your coresponding fuse in the fuse box is okay.
#2184 of 2547 1996 Mazda 626 engine dies when coming to a complete stop
Oct 10, 2006 (10:08 am)
hi. im new here and i want to say thanks for having me. haviung said that, now i wonder if i could get some help with a problem that just occured.
i had to change the water pump on my '96 626 and, as you all know, you have to take alot of engine parts off to get to it. well in the process, i figured i would change the timing belt as well, since i am told its best to do it when ur changing out a water pump on this car. now i have a small amount of knowhow when it comes to this, and as long as it took to do all of that, i managed to get it all done and the car started with no problem. its only when i go down the road, the car runs rough and the engine start surging when i come to a stop of any kind. after warm up it gets worse. i dont think my timing is off because i checked everything by marking everything before i took it apart and making sure everything lined back up as far as timing goes. is there something im supposed to do after i had put a new timing belt on? does something need to be reset? i would appreciate any help i can get without having to go the a shop cause my mistake is gonna probrably cost me more than it would have to have it all done at the shop in the first place.
p.s.: the check engine light came on but goes away after i disconnect the battery for an amount of time. just thought i would throw that in.
Oct 11, 2006 (7:55 am)
i was wondering if you had ever fixed the problem with your mazda. im having that same trouble now, and the idle air control valve that i was told would fix the problem is 500 dollars. since it didnt fix your problem, i was thinking maybe it wont fix mine either. im sure you dont have the car anymore, but if you could remember anything, i would greatly appreciate it.
#2186 of 2547 Re: #1 [edagger3274]
Oct 11, 2006 (10:51 am)
Yes I fixed it with a tighter belt. I had a high pitched noise after putting in the timing belt and water pump. changed belts but when I first had problem the belts appeared to tight. However after changing and getting the alt.water pump belts tighter noise has not come back. After about 300 miles I think it is fixed. Never had a problem with idle air but check vacuum lines. I had one come off when working on it and it made the check engine light come on and the engine ran ruff. Found the line off and fixed the problem. hope that helps.
Oct 12, 2006 (1:28 pm)
thanks for responding back. unfortunately, my problem is still there. i changed the 400 dollar IAC valve and still doing the same thing, with the surging and idling rough. i do appreciate you taking the time to respond. i just hope my problem doesnt get any worse than it already is.
#2188 of 2547 Re: #1 [edagger3274]
Oct 12, 2006 (3:47 pm)
Sure, sometimes someone may have had the same problem. I would run the codes if you do not have a code checker go to one of the Auto Parts Stores. Advance help me a while back on finding something that had kept my check engine light on for several years. I had it at a dealer and several independant shops each year to pass emission check and after so long found the problem a value in the gas line that controls the fumes.