Last post on Nov 16, 2013 at 8:34 AM
You are in the Mazda 626
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Mazda 626, Sedan
#2124 of 2547 Timing Belt Change
Aug 14, 2006 (10:25 am)
I have 63000 miles on my Mazda 626 LX, 1999 Model 2.5 liter 4 cylinders. I have not yet replaced the timing belt on my car and I was informed by the service people that this is very critical to be replaced. Mazda dealearship here costs around Cd$845.00 (canadian). This is the cost of 60,000 miles service on the car.
Now I wanted to find out, if I should take this car to mazda dealership or any mechanic should be able to replace the timing belt. The local mechanic has given me a cost of almost half the amount.
Will greatly appreciate any insight.
#2125 of 2547 tranny problem still
Aug 16, 2006 (9:08 am)
Hi Guys I am back in NYC now where I have bandwidth and am trying to get some info on my 94 MAZDA 626 I4 ATX which is still in Greece. I subscribed to ALL DATA and they refer to a SUPER TESTER 11 to help diagnose ATX but I cant find any info on the tester anywhere
Here is a update of my situation posted August 4th or so:
Tranny Problems My 94 626 lxa 4 cylinder with the FORD CD4E tranny went a little nuts today . After a lot of driving on a very hot day it would : #1 not go into reverse at all #2 neutral produced a forward gear with clunky starts, and # 3 drive would not engage at all #4 forward could be accomplished by using S or L gear #5 after cooling down reverse came back although it was very clunky . Although car did not register overheated I needed to add over 1 liter of coolant to radiator.
I am getting a 133 code after two 111 (codes which signify no faults). I can find nothing out about 133 codes on a OBD 1 Mazda in my book.
Tranny will not go forward in D but will go in S or L and eventually when getting up to moderate speed 40-50 MPH or so, I can put selector in drive. It will drive well in 3rd and 4th gear (I DROVE 140 MILES AT HIGH SPEEDS 80 MPH> without problems) .
The hold light came on after about one hour of driving. Also Reverse does not work now,it clunks and does not move at all .Also S and L engagement of tranny causes a loud clunk.
Anyone know how to check solenoids as suggested here ?
#2126 of 2547 Re: Timing Belt Change [saeedabidi]
Aug 19, 2006 (12:34 pm)
The timing belt job is 3 hours of labor and the belt itself at a Mazda dealer is over $100 CAN. This totals around $300 tax in. I deal only with a private mechanic, who I trust and is a master at what he does and charges fair prices. My car had 97000 km on it when he did the timing belt. He also did the water pump, even though it was ok, he changed the coolant, valve cover gasket all for $700 in Canada. I would never take my car to a dealer because of the impersonal nature of their work. Shop around, get friends to refer you to a good mechanic, it's worth it. The service at this mileage should run you about $300(plugs, plug wires, air and fuel filters, injector cleaning). Sounds like the dealer's price is too high.
Aug 19, 2006 (5:31 pm)
I have a 1996 626 with 140K miles, recently purchased, and have experienced the ubiquitous rough idle problems. I had an engine code P1402, EGR valve metering orifice restricted. I replaced the EGR valve with a new one ($$$) and made sure the passages to and from the valve were clear, and within minutes after starting it up, got the same P1402 code!
#2128 of 2547 Re: EGR Problems [guzzisidecar]
Aug 21, 2006 (11:04 am)
The problem is most likely clogged EGR orifices in the intake manifold past the throttle body. I had this problem with my V6. What happens is, the carbon clogs the orifices so that the EGR flow into the intake manifold is stopped or greatly reduced. You need to remove the throttle body to access these.
Aug 21, 2006 (5:51 pm)
Thanks for the tip: When I installed the new EGR valve I had the throttle body off and ran a .45 caliber brass brush through the EGR orifices, and blew 150 PSI comressed air through both holes: it blasted into the intake manifold through one hole and out the exhaust pipe through the other. Seemed like both of them were clear...
#2130 of 2547 Re: EGR Problems [guzzisidecar]
Aug 22, 2006 (8:11 am)
Did you check the EGR control solenoid for proper operation? It is a separate component. On the V6 model, the EGR is electrically controlled, do not know if it is the same on the 4 cylinder.
#2131 of 2547 Some problem that i fixed on my mazda 93 v6
Aug 22, 2006 (9:09 pm)
i bought a 93 v6 mazda 626 crono.
first problem i had was my steering it was leaking steering fluid...i thought it was a hose problem or something then it leaked to my tires which was a bigger problem...i also hear clickering sounds evertime i go over bumps..
solution-- it was a rack a pinion steering cost $900 canadian to get fix at mechanic---product worth $150
my rpm revs really high and my temperature is at red line and my steering was hard to control--the problem was my water pump was broken and my steering belt was gone..Mechanic fee $600
everytime i drove my car i would hear a dragging noise at the back of my car...this started happening after i change my break pads 1 week earlier.. --problem-- it was my tires...the were not even so i got 4 new tires and a tire and a tire rotation which is important, it makes sure my car is level..cost $600 new tires
my car started leaking smoke out of my exhaust, it was grey smoke not black...it got fixed when i took it to the mechanic..- problem was, it was leaking oil in my engine pumps.. which cause grey smokes cuz it hadnt leak that bad yet cost to fix $500
1 month later it started leaking smoke again so this time i solved it a different way...took out my cat coverter and got straight pipes and a new racing muffler...cost $400 1 yr later still hasnt smoke a bit of grey smokes...lasted longer then cleaning my engine
i bought a new intake for my car to make it sound better and make it gain more horse power....i attached everything correct, 1 week later my car is now starting to shake when my intake is hot, when its cold it runs fast and smooth but when its hot it kinda chokes or dont get enough sucking or something? havent gone to the mechanic yet on this one..kinda wanna fix it on my own just in case it was a small problem! If anyone had this happen to them please help.. thx u
btw.. i flush my oil and my tranny and i gain all my horse power back ..it was like running like it was new..
#2132 of 2547 CV joints, boots and axels????
Aug 23, 2006 (10:01 am)
I have a 97 626 with 100,000 miles. My car makes noise when I accelerate. Took it the dealership and they said the inner CV is bad and needs to be repleced for $500 plus. I am leaving the country in December and don't want to invest that much but I need my car. Is it possible to do it yourself and how? My brother says he knows but....HELP!!!!
#2133 of 2547 Re: CV joints, boots and axels???? [jusdawn]
Aug 24, 2006 (9:48 am)
If you were really leaving, then why not just buy a rebuilt axle at an auto parts store, and maybe an axle seal for the transmission and install or have them installed for you?