Last post on Nov 16, 2013 at 8:34 AM
You are in the Mazda 626
What is this discussion about?
Mazda 626, Sedan
#2114 of 2547 Re: Mazda 626-LX 4 Cylinder - after 62000miles what to do? [saeedabidi]
Jul 23, 2006 (9:52 am)
I'm not sure of the later models of 626's,but I have a 1990 with automatic transmission and I have heard from more than one source that unless a seperate aftermarket transmission fluid cooler is installed($40-$80 part cost)those transmissions are prone to early failure because of heat builup. Also that the electronics associated with those automatics can be troublesome at times when a mechanical failure is suspected. Regular fluid changes are also advised (every year or two). In the summer I would advise a higher viscisity motor oil or a motor oil additive such as STP oil treatment especially if you get stuck in traffic regularly in the summer. Timing belt(includeing water pump and pulleys and oil seals for crankshaft and camshaft) should be replaced every 4-5 years or so or every 60-90,000 miles. And naturally regular but crucial stuff like hoses and serpentine belts,spark plugs and wires. The cost of these things can be prohibitive if you have to bring it to a garage instead of doing it yourself,but some things like spark plug wires and even spark plugs(useing antisieze compound on the threads)are not too difficult for a novice mechanic. Fuel filter eplacement is advisable once every 2-3 years as well as air filter insection and possilble relacement once in a while(every year or two)
#2115 of 2547 Should I change timing belt at 62k?
Jul 23, 2006 (10:00 am)
I have a 626 LX - 1999 Model - 4 Cylinder with 62000 miles. Do I need to change the timing belt? The car so far is running OK. What else should I replace which is critical.
#2116 of 2547 Re: Mazda 626-LX 4 Cylinder - after 62000miles what to do? [puttering]
Jul 23, 2006 (10:06 am)
Thank you. The information you have given is really helpful.
#2117 of 2547 Re: Mazda 626-LX 4 Cylinder - after 62000miles what to do? [saeedabidi]
Jul 23, 2006 (10:07 am)
Also, you should inspect and or replace the front brake pads every 10,000-20,000 miles or so and the rear a little less.And replace the antifreeze every 4-5 years or add a supplement such as prestone anti rust(22 ounce)or Zerex anti rust, as anti freeze loses it's ability to prevent rust over time, but not it's freeze boilover protection.These things will save you even bigger costs in the future such as brake rotor replacement and radiator replacement.
#2118 of 2547 TRANNY ACTING UP AGAIN
Jul 26, 2006 (8:12 am)
My 94 626 lxa 4 cylinder with the FORD CD4E tranny went alittle nuts today . AFter a lot of driving on a very hot day it would :#1 not go into reverse at all , #2 neutral produced a forward gear with clunky starts, and # 3 after cooling down reverse came back although it was initially clunky also. I needed to add over 1 liter of coolant to radiator. Its very hot here in Greece and I think it may be a semi fried SWITCH INHIBITOR RANGE SENSOR which we replaced 5 years ago after similar symptoms. I am getting a 133 code after two 111 (codes which signify no faults). I can find nothing out about 133 codes on a OBDl Mazda in my book.
Can anyone confirm that this is a range sensor code. I have ordered the part and it will be coming to Greece with my cousins son tomorrow. I hope this solve the problem but any confirmation of code or advice would be appreciated
#2119 of 2547 Re: TRANNY ACTING UP AGAIN [mazda626atx]
Jul 27, 2006 (5:50 am)
Take it for a long drive back to Michigan or something, That cool air at highway speeds keeps it from heating up too much and can clear out the oxygen sensor and possibly some of those well known codes as well.
#2120 of 2547 Re: TRANNY ACTING UP AGAIN [puttering]
Aug 01, 2006 (7:13 am)
WELL I CHANGED THE TRANNY SHIFT INHIBITOR AND THAT DID NOT SOLVE THE PROBLEM. I DROVE THE CAR HOME AT 2 AM THE OTHER NIGHT AND WAS LUCKY TO MAKE IT BACK TO ATHENS FROM THE COUNTRY SIDE. IT WAS ABOUT 180 MILES AND IN 3RD OR 4TH GEAR I COULD DRIVE THE CAR NONSTOP ACROSS EUROPE. WHEN I NEED TO CHANGE GEARS OR STOP TO PAY A TOLL TRANNY CLUNKS LIKE CRAZY . IT IS GETTING PROGRESSIVELY WORSE.THE MECHANIC WHO DID THE TRANNY REBUILD 5 YEARS AGO,TAKES THE MONTH OF AUGUST OFF LIKE MOST EVERYONE ELSE HERE IN GREECE.
I THINK I WILL BE SCREWED UNTIL HE GETS BACK UNLESS SOME ONE ELSE HAS ANY OTHER IDEAS. I HAVE TO SHIFT INTO LOW OR AT LEAST S TO GET STARTED. DRIVE PRODUCES NOTHING. AFTER GAINING SOME SPEED I CAN SHIFT INTO DRIVE AND IT WILL HOLD OVER 30 MPH OR SO. ANY OTHER THOUGHTS? MAZDA MECANIC SAID IT COULD BE A SIMPLE PROBLEM SENSOR ETC BUT HE WOULD NOT KNOW WHERE TO START LOOKING AT AN AUTOMATIC TRANNY HERE IN GREECE.
THE HOLD LIGHT CAME ON AGAIN AFTER ABOUT 1 1/2 HOURS OF DRIVING AND I AM GETTING NO CODES AFTER CLEARING THE 133 THAT I HAD BEFORE CLEARING IT AND STARTING TRIP.
#2121 of 2547 Re: close to 150k miles [chacha62]
Aug 07, 2006 (9:49 am)
If you have 108K miles on the original timing belt, have it changed ASAP! I cannot agree with your husband's assessment that you will know when changing the timing belt is due. You cannot see the belt unless you remove the timing belt cover. Timing belts usually fail unexpectedly, leaving you stranded. Worse yet, if you have a 4 cylinder engine, it may be an interference engine, so you may be looking at $4k in engine work if the timing belt fails while driving (valves will strike the pistons). Mazda recommends replacing the timing belt at 60K miles. Stretching it to 105k miles like I did, I was taking a risk.
#2122 of 2547 Replacing the instrument panel bulbs on your 626
Aug 10, 2006 (5:22 am)
I recently replaced several instrument panel bulbs on my car because they burned out, and only the tachometer and odometer were lit up at night.
Anyway, I will briefly describe how to do this without breaking things (following the shop manual sequence).
1. Disconnect the battery negative terminal
2. Get a flat bladed screwdriver, wrapped in a rag, insert it into the front edge of the side dashboard panel (driver's side) and gently pry the clips out. The panel has hinge-like plastic clips in the back, so be careful not to break those. Once the front edge of the panel is pried loose, pull the panel out. You will see two screws under the panel, holding the lower dash panel in place.
3. Remove the two lower panel screws and also one on the right hand lower edge of the lower panel. Then pry the panel out gently and it will drop about an inch, revealing additional screws holding the black upper panel in place(no need to fully remove the lower panel).
4. You will need a short torx bit screwdriver to get to some screws. Also, a flex shaft torx bit screwdriver will work (this is what I used). To remove the upper black cover panel , you also need to disconnect the oscillating vent motor connector, hazard switch and rear defroster connectors, and the power mirror switch connector, which was so stubborn on my car, that I left it connected and just moved the panel out of the way suspended from the power mirror switch harness.
Be careful not to break the wiring harness connectors. The have a plastic barb that must be pushed in to release the connectors. Do not force them apart, and do not use pliers to pull them apart.
5. Remove the instrument panel black cover. It is attached with 4 same size torx screws.
6. Unplug the three connectors on the back side of the printed circuit instrument cluster and mark with tape for correct reinstallation. Now you can remove the instrument cluster from the vehicle and get to the bulbs.
7. The bulbs that provide the illumination for the speedometer, tach, and the gauges are green bulbs with grey sockets. There are three of them. Also, there is one small green bulb. There are four types of bulbs used in the cluster. Each warning light has a small individual clear bulb. There is probably at least twenty bulbs total in that instrument cluster. The bulbs are removed and replaced by gently twisting them and pulling straight out.
#2123 of 2547 Re: Replacing the instrument panel bulbs on your 626 [p100]
Aug 10, 2006 (6:27 am)
Great information - thanks for sharing it!