Last post on Nov 16, 2013 at 8:34 AM
You are in the Mazda 626
What is this discussion about?
Mazda 626, Sedan
#2105 of 2547 Please help me diagnose
Jul 16, 2006 (11:06 am)
I have a 2000 Mazda 626 LX (4 cyl). It has ~68000 miles on it. Earlier this year, before the day light saving began, and the weather was cooler, if I turned on the head light in the morning, and braked to stop, the car would shake. In the evening, the symptom was milder. A friend of mine thought my alternator was malfunctional. So I went to Autozone to have them test it. It turned out both the battery and the alternator were all right.
Now, in the summer, I don't drive with head light on that much; but the air condition takes the place of the head light, and the symptom is more severe. When the air condition is on, and I brake to a stop, the car will shake. If I don't turn off the air condition quickly, the engine will stall. The air condition works fine other wise (when I don't have to brake to stop, eg on free way).
I believe these two things are related, but don't know where lies the fault. Please help. Thanks a lot
#2106 of 2547 Re: 2000 626 4CLY CODES [carguy32]
Jul 16, 2006 (3:54 pm)
I have a 1995 Mazda 626 LX with a 4 CYL. Purchase in Feb 06 162000 kms it is now 183000km. Very good in gaz and run smoothly, perfect to drive in town or go on highway with no hill. I do have 1 question
Everything, I push the brake to fast, try to pass a car...well everytime the car need power, the engine light goes on, I have to release the gaz, let him breaths and try again smoothly. I now it has no power but this is definitly a problem. The women that have it before tell me that she did bring it to a dealer and put it on the computer, but they found nothing.
It is may be fact that it has not enough air coming?
When I try to pass a car in a hill, it goes okay, after 5-10 sec, Engine light come on and rpm goes at 4 and stuck there. engine dies, like I have not the feet on the floor. It looks like that there is no overdrive(it works). If someone knows what I am saying, please respond
#2107 of 2547 Re: 2000 626 4CLY CODES [bgautreau]
Jul 17, 2006 (3:34 am)
A common problem with the 4 cylinder is the air ducting that is between the Mass Air flow meter and the throttle housing. You should check this for leaks, and cracks . That can be causing unmonitored air to enter and throw off the mixture. I personally have little faith in all the people that read codes. In your Diagnostic Control box right before battery ,open it up and see if they are actually connector wires in the TENS and GRND slots. Mine where empty, and people were trying for 4 years to draw codes and with no connectors I can see why they found no error codes. Make sure this box has those connectors or you may have the bastardized FORD EEC lV combo Mazda diagnostic system. In that case the way of drawing codes is easier but totally different and even most Mazda mechanics do not now how to do it . Does your car have a FORD CDE4 transmission? Also look in door jamb was it built in the USA?
Let me know and I can tell you how to read codes to help you diagnose it if it is not the air ducting. It is very possible thatyou need a newair flow meter. I changed mine and the car is runnning great after 3 years searching for the problem and almost setting fire to car in frustration.
#2108 of 2547 1995 626 with engine/starting problems
Jul 19, 2006 (1:59 pm)
The engine in my car ceased running on the way home from work yesterday. The engine started losing power and acceleration while cruising at ca. 50 mph. The loss of power eventually led to a stall over about 5 seconds. The car would not start and had to be towed. Prior to this (an hour or so), the engine was running a little rough with a noticeable loss of power and tend to idle at about 500 RPM or less. The weather was rather hot over the last few days (high 90s). There was a peculiar odor in the car when I drove to work in the morning and I can't really describe it. I had a half tank of gas and the spark plugs along with the fuel filter were replaced about a month ago. Further attempts to start the car this morning were unsuccessful; the starter and perhaps, the engine turns but that's about it. My check-engine-light is on but it has been on for some time now. It would be intuitive for me to heed some attention to the warning but I am just using this car as a banger for a while longer. I've managed to check a few things before I hitched a ride to work today:
1. I checked the belts on the left hand side of the engine and they were not broken (I will check to see if they are worn later today). I've read that the timing belt may be a cause but I am not sure where to look. I saw a total of two or three belts when I was looking this morning.
2. Fuel filter doesn't seem to be leaking; I was wondering if I had installed the filter wrong last month.
3. Opened the oil cap on the top of the engine and had someone try to start the car. I couldn't see anything moving and I'm not sure if I'm supposed to except for a small pin of some sort rise up and down. I didn't look too closely though.
4. Oil and coolant levels were at specification.
There have been a couple of suggestions here and there about similar problems but not very specific. I was wondering if anyone had any different suggestions or for that matter, just plain reiterate a few previous suggestions. From what I've gathered already, it could be a problem with:
1. fuel lines
2. fuel pump
3. air duct manifold
4. distributor cap and/or rotor
5. fuel pressure regulator
6. fuel pump relay
8. spark plug cables
9. mass airflow meter
10. timing belt
11. heck, I might as well list parts for the entire car.
I'm not too savvy with the more complicated (relative I guess) aspects of a car engine but am mechanically able. Any help would be much appreciated.
#2109 of 2547 Re: PO421 and O/D light flashing [hsriram]
Jul 19, 2006 (3:31 pm)
There seems to be a direct relatioship between sensors and codes caused. I was getting and MAF sensor code and an O2 sensor code. After replacing MAF the O2 code never came back. My book shows the P0420 and Po430 code as Catalyst effeciency system below threshold. As this can be thrown off by numerous things , I would continue to look for a better mechanic that is not going to guess, and change parts randomly till your broke.Especially the guy that tells you that code is O2 sensor. It could very well be O2 sensor but unless he is getting a different code he is guessing.
Remember codes do not mean a part , or sensor is defective , it just leads to a place to look for the problem . Your converters could be running inefficiently because of 2 rich a mixture and that could be Mass AIr Flow meter, or O2 sensors. Is that the only code they get or is it the one they are telling you about . Have you watched while they drew it?
You also mention that it comes on some times and most of the times now. Is it more prevalent when hot. I would have them clear all the codes (there are hard codes and memory codes)and redraw codes the first time it comes on.
If you have recreated the same driving action you may get a lead about which direction to start first.
Investigate, learn and do not beleive the first or second mechanic especially when they do not agree entirely.
It took me 3 years here in Greece and 4 mazda dealers till I found out the problem.( I FOUND IT NOT THEM) with help from these forums and soem research.
Try to be more specific under what condtitions the first inkling of the light going on after all codes are cleared and come back and tell us
#2110 of 2547 Re: Please help me diagnose [loduffy]
Jul 20, 2006 (6:03 am)
HAVE YOU CHECKED MOTOR MOUNTS? ENGINES PRODUCE VIBRATION IN DIFFERENT STAGES OF USE, THAT GO UNRECOGNIZED WHEN YOUR MOTOR MOUNTS ARE FUNTIONING PROPERLY.
THAT WILL NOT BE THE ANSWER TO YOUR OVERALL PROBLEM BUT IT CAN BE THE REASON YOU ARE FEELING THAT SHAKE. I REPLACED MOUNTS AND NO LONGER FEEL THE SHAKE WHEN AIR CONDITIOING COMPRESSOR KICKS IN. IT IS STILL THERE BUT MINIMIZED AS IT SHOULD BE.
IF MOUNTS ARE BAD THATS A START. THEN YO HAVE TO DRAW CODES TO SEE WHAT IS CAUSING EXTRAORDINARY VOLTAGE DROPS THAT CAUSE THE BAD ENGINE FIRING .DID AUTO ZONE DRAW ANY CODES ?? DO EITHER FIRST ACCORDING TO BUDGET
#2111 of 2547 Re: 1995 626 with engine/starting problems [gling]
Jul 21, 2006 (8:33 pm)
I have a 1996 with the same problem. It is a very strange problem indeed. My car did the same thing 1 year ago on my way to work. It would not crank for 10 days so I had it towed. When the mechanic tried to crank the car it started right up. He ran a computer diagnosis and it read that it was the sensor. He said that I would have to have the distributor cap replaced to fix the sensor, but he said that it didn't mean that the sensor was the problem. Since it was running fine without any maintenance, I didn't do anything to it. I have driven it for a year with no problems until now. It has done it again but has not cranked since. It has been 12 days. I am going to have it towed again and maybe it will crank! I will let you if a mechanic can fix mine.
#2112 of 2547 Re: Thunking gone! [backy]
Jul 22, 2006 (10:39 am)
I can confirm the fix. I had the exact same symptons, I picked up 2 bushings from the dealer (who wanted to charge me $200 for the install), then went to firestone who installed them for 40 Bucks. Thunks and trunk rattling gone. For anyone else having this issue, I would start with the sway bar bushing. Thanks backy
#2113 of 2547 Mazda 626-LX 4 Cylinder - after 62000miles what to do?
Jul 23, 2006 (9:28 am)
I have 99 Mazda 626 LX 4 Cylinder and currently it has 62000miles. So far I am only doing Oil Changes on regular basis, but I wanted to find out, what kind of maintainence I must do on my car now, so that it keeps on running in good health. How much does that kind of maintainence on the average cost?
#2114 of 2547 Re: Mazda 626-LX 4 Cylinder - after 62000miles what to do? [saeedabidi]
Jul 23, 2006 (9:52 am)
I'm not sure of the later models of 626's,but I have a 1990 with automatic transmission and I have heard from more than one source that unless a seperate aftermarket transmission fluid cooler is installed($40-$80 part cost)those transmissions are prone to early failure because of heat builup. Also that the electronics associated with those automatics can be troublesome at times when a mechanical failure is suspected. Regular fluid changes are also advised (every year or two). In the summer I would advise a higher viscisity motor oil or a motor oil additive such as STP oil treatment especially if you get stuck in traffic regularly in the summer. Timing belt(includeing water pump and pulleys and oil seals for crankshaft and camshaft) should be replaced every 4-5 years or so or every 60-90,000 miles. And naturally regular but crucial stuff like hoses and serpentine belts,spark plugs and wires. The cost of these things can be prohibitive if you have to bring it to a garage instead of doing it yourself,but some things like spark plug wires and even spark plugs(useing antisieze compound on the threads)are not too difficult for a novice mechanic. Fuel filter eplacement is advisable once every 2-3 years as well as air filter insection and possilble relacement once in a while(every year or two)