Last post on Nov 16, 2013 at 8:34 AM
You are in the Mazda 626
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Mazda 626, Sedan
#1994 of 2547 Persistent Intermittent 626 problem :/
Mar 02, 2006 (11:22 am)
Hello. I found this forum searching for answers to my mazda problems, and found similar issues but possibly not the exact problem I'm having. here is a description:
My 2001 4cyl mazda 626 intermittently fails to start. The problem is far more prevalent when the temperature outside is high, and when the car has been run recently [less than 30minutes]. However the problem does seem to occur on fewer occassions when the vehicle is cool [2+hours turned off]. When the vehicle fails to start it usually seems like on my first try I get a couple of firings from the spark plugs, and that's it [doesn't seem like enough to be flooding the engine]. Then repeated attempts lead to nothing more than the starter turning the engine with no ignition whatsoever. In most situations if I let the car cool for an hour or two after having problems starting it, it starts. Once the car is running, it runs fine almost always, except once when I had the A/C running with the car going for an hour straight, it almost died while idling.
The starter turns fine in all situations, so I've ruled out battery or starter. I have replaced the plugs, wires, and fuel filter but to no avail; the problem is exactly the same after doing so.
I have also brought the car to a couple of shops, including a mazda dealership. None found any issue while the vehicle was at their shop (no bad test codes, unable to reproduce the problem etc.) During this winter the car seemed to perform almost flawlessly [ambient temps ranging from -10 to 30 degrees fahrenheit], but now that it is 50 degrees fahrenheit out again, the problem has returned.
#1995 of 2547 Re: Persistent Intermittent 626 problem :/ [twitme]
Mar 04, 2006 (3:58 pm)
Of all the problems I have encountered this is the first time I have heard of that issue. It sounds like vapor lock with the fuel system. You might try replacing the fuel pressure regulator that is located at the right side of the fuel rail (looking at the engine from front of car). It's the little metal canister that is screwed to the end of the fuel rail and has a fuel line connected to it. I don't know if that will help but it's worth a shot.
'96 626 4-cylinder Auto 101K miles
#1996 of 2547 Re: SOMEONE HELP ME [youngsnoog101]
Mar 04, 2006 (4:58 pm)
This also can be a problem with mounting piece that is on the top of struts. It does not take long for certain suspension parts to wear out on this car. Check CV boots (drive shaft rubber boots) first since they seem to wear out faster then the automatic transmissions on these cars. You can change the entire axle if you have more then 100K on the car it's more practical.
#1997 of 2547 Re: Persistent Intermittent 626 problem :/ [honda_man2]
Mar 06, 2006 (12:36 pm)
Just last night I had a friend who's a mechanic look at my car. he said the fuel pressure regulator was bad. I actually just replaced that about 2 years ago. So something else in the vehicle is damaging the regulator it looks like. Any idea what could be causing this problem? faulty fuel pump? something else in the fuel supply system?
#1999 of 2547 1996 mazda 626 Transmission help!!
Mar 08, 2006 (8:03 am)
I have already replace over $1,700 worth of stuff in my car and the last thing that is left is the transmission. IF anyone knows of a cheap transmission or a rebuild kit for a 1996 mazda 626 please let me know I would appreciate it
#2000 of 2547 1997 Mazda 626 drive axle replacement
Mar 08, 2006 (1:32 pm)
How difficult is it to change the drive axles on a 97 mazda 626, 4 cylinder, 5 speed trans? I know I can handle the part of the job at the wheels. How hard is it to get the shafts out of the manual transaxle? That's the part the scares me. Been quoted labor rates of $220 to $600. Is it worth the hassle of doing it myself to save $250??Thanks
#2001 of 2547 Re: 1997 Mazda 626 drive axle replacement [czecho]
Mar 08, 2006 (8:39 pm)
Simple. Use a big pry bar or the straighter end of a crowbar and it pops right out.
#2002 of 2547 Re: 1997 Mazda 626 drive axle replacement [czecho]
Mar 10, 2006 (8:56 pm)
Some oil will leak out of the transaxle when you pull out the axle shafts. Be prepared to catch the oil by placing the pan under the transaxle. Alternately, to avoid this, you can drain the oil beforehand and then refill with fresh oil. Mechanics often use plastic plugs, which they insert into the tranaxle axle holes when they remove the axles. These plugs keep the oil from leaking out, so only very small amount of oil is lost. Auto parts stores sell a set of these plugs pretty cheap.
One thing to consider is replacement of axle seals in the trnasaxle when you change the axles. It is not difficult to do and can save you a lot of aggravation. To replace the seals, you need to pull the axles.
After you pull the axles and replace them, and bolt the steering knuckle to the front struts, have an alignment done on the car. The original geometry will be altered.
#2003 of 2547 Re: Water pump replacement probably something done very wrong by mechanic. Hel [fsteveb]
Mar 10, 2006 (9:01 pm)
Replacement of the rear main seal requires removal and reinstallation of the transaxle, so it is rather pricey. It is best to combine this seal replacement with the clutch replacement (if you have a manual) becuase esssentially all the work must be done as for clutch replacement. Replacing the rear main seal by itself should cost about $ 500 at a Mazda dealership. They quoted me $ 750 for the clutch replacement which included a $ 190 clutch kit.
As far as water pump replacement goes, $ 1000 is steep. Yes, you must remove and reinstall the timing belt to replace the pump and on my V6 engine you also need to support the the engine and remove the front engine mount. However, it should be about $ 500 job including the pump, which is new about $ 110 from Mazda. It is much easier to replace the pump on a 4 cylinder model than on the V6 due to more complicated timing belt routing on the V6 engine.