Last post on Apr 15, 2013 at 8:56 AM
You are in the Mazda 626
What is this discussion about?
Mazda 626, Sedan
#1967 of 2544 Re: atx cooler mazda 626 1997 [aphexpusher]
Jan 27, 2006 (11:29 am)
I have installed an Imperial Maxi cool in mine. It is a plate and fin and was the second from the lagest size (STILL SMALL) Hayden is another hood one, and they are both made by the same company. Just a note , you need to buy another 4 ft of tranny fluid hose , make sure you get that, not fuel hose,and everything else you need is in the kit. Also the store that sells the cooler has the 4 foot length of hose in a package made by the same manufacturer.
Search for best prices. I ordered online and saved $10 or more
#1968 of 2544 Re: Oil pressure sending unit [deerwatcher65]
Jan 27, 2006 (11:38 am)
I am looking at sensor in the book. What do you have a 4 or a 6 cylinder. They show a hexagonal nut on both. What kind of problem are you having . Get the right size wrench not a crescent. If its frozen because of age you might want to use some type of rust disolver if its the 6 because it is not mounted flat on engine,and will not drip into engine. Be careful not to let any drip into engine.
Jan 29, 2006 (11:45 pm)
I bought my 2001 626 LX when it was new. Since then, I have only 80,080 miles on it and here's a list of what has been replaced so far:
2 transmissions, the fuse box, weather-stripping around the trunk, front windshield (cracked in a wind-storm), codes kept misfiring so it cost me $90 each time I took it to the dealership to get reset because of my warranty, actuator rod inside of the driver's side door (couldn't open from the outside), radio, the A/C swivel vents, and last but not least the rear passenger-side strut. The question here is: "did I buy a lemon?" The answer is of course "yes". But that's okay. Since my warranty expired, I have finally been able to do what I want to under the hood. So far, I've been able to fix my own stuff (since a warranty prevents that sort of thing). Also, I've even tuned, perfected, and added a turbo to my inline 4. It gets about as much power as the V6 model, but I didn't install it for performance, I installed it for two reasons; one, to help save on gas (if used properly), and two, to help when I try to merge or pass vehicles on the highway. Don't worry, I don't have one of those lawnmower mufflers that you see so much of on todays streets. My car is quick and quiet, and it appears stock. I love my 626, it just disappoints me when a person my age at the time (20) buys a brand new car only to have so many proplems with it and can't touch anything under the hood to fix it because of warranty purposes (even the things not covered under warranty, but not notified of until a service bill is issued).
#1970 of 2544 Re: why me??? [626turbo]
Jan 30, 2006 (3:45 pm)
Is it an automatic? Now after 3-4 years of dealing with Mechanics in Greece who could not get codes etc. and I finally think its running pretty good and only 55k miles on it.
So the question is what type of supercharger did you install and is this 4 basically the same as my 94 4 cylinder? Mine is basically a Ford Probe second generation with a ford tranny. Now that I can access codes I feel confident in playing with it further.
The mechanics were not really at fault because this car has a bastardized Ford EEC iv diagnostic sytem which is not the same as the Mazda nor the Ford diagnostic system. Only thru diligent work and a little luck did I find out how to get the codes from a site Dali Design that is no longer working.
Supercharger where and how much?
Any thoughts to the durability of it in mountainous country ?
#1971 of 2544 Re: why me??? [mazda626atx]
Jan 30, 2006 (10:41 pm)
"Now that I can access codes I feel confident in playing with it further."
#1972 of 2544 DANGEROUS PROBLEM 1992 V6 Mazda 626
Jan 31, 2006 (3:48 am)
1992 Mazda V6 626 GE Model 5sp Manual 280k on clock
wondering if someone could give me some advice, have been reading the threads and posts, have read so many similar yet different problems to mine,
Car runs fine UNTIL under half a tank of petrol,
you turn a left corner, and car is fine, turn a right corner and cuts out, still idles but no throttle for anywhere between 2-8 seconds? under 1/4 of a tank of petrol car wants to cut out and drops revs causing to stall EVEN in a straight line however but never this problem whist turning left?.
(makes no difference in applying different throttle pressure around corners or in a straight line)
have put car on blocks so both front wheels are off the ground (no gravity pull/tank slap) and doesnt do it at all no matter what the fuel tank is holding. have also gone driving with fuel filler cap off whist under half a tank incase of vacuum problem no difference. we think it is one of the following:-
Fuel Pump in fuel tank, have drained
fuel tank and no guts or grime in tank clean as a whistle.
Distributor - seems clean have pulled apart and back together.
Has anyone heard or expirenced this problem? any advice would be muchly appreciated
spuddyiinet.net.au or please reply to this forum either way any response will be helpful.
#1973 of 2544 Re: We're gonna consolidate... [carlitom]
Jan 31, 2006 (11:07 am)
Hubs have nothing to do with it. You need to get 17'wheels that have the same lug pattern and offset as the original wheels. Then, you need to use lower profile tires to compensate for the increased wheel diameter. This way, you will not get an erroneous speedometer reading.
Jan 31, 2006 (11:11 am)
i have a 98 mazda 626 4 cylinder and i want to know why it keeps making this clunking noise when i make turns and pull off up hill. Its just one distinct clunk when i turned, ANY IDEAS?
#1975 of 2544 Re: why me??? [alcan]
Feb 03, 2006 (11:28 am)
ALCAN Buckle Up! You are not out of the woods yet my friend LOL
#1976 of 2544 Re: SOMEONE HELP ME [youngsnoog101]
Feb 03, 2006 (11:32 am)
Have you checked your CV joints? The boots on the axles should be visible on them . See if they are torn and leaking. Is the noise much more obvious, when you turn the wheel and you are parked, as opposed to moving slowly ?