Last post on Nov 16, 2013 at 8:34 AM
You are in the Mazda 626
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Mazda 626, Sedan
#1646 of 2547 Fuel Injector Seal (1999 626 4-cyl)
Apr 11, 2005 (8:17 am)
Can anyone help me find a fuel injector seal for my Mazda 626 LX (2.0 4-cyl). I think it’s also called a “hat”. According to the dealer they found the seal broken while fixing another problem (see below). Now I have fuel all over the engine and can see it spraying out around the injector sides while the car is running. Needless to say, the fire extinguisher was moved to the car and the keys put far away.
It seems that the seal can only be purchased with a new injector ($350 OEM and $100 after-market). Look at this picture for clarity. By the way, the injector functions just fine.
I can buy a used injector for about $25 just to get to the seal, but that’s a used one. Any advice on where to get this? Tried all the major parts shops and also some importers to no avail.
Let me also explain two other resolved issues I’ve just had for the benefit of others. The engine light came on a few weeks ago and the car started having idling problems. The engine would run fine otherwise, but idling got progressively worse over weeks. Replaced the spark plugs and the leads. The code read too lean on cylinder one. Finally I took it to the dealer who found the intake manifold gasket leaking. That was replaced and problem fixed for $355.
Also had a leak on the metal oil pipe running from the gearbox to the radiator. Luckily, it spilled the transmission fluid on the exhaust pipe and caused a lot of smoke, so I could catch it before too much oil was spilled. After replacing the pipe for $40 (actually two pipes attached to each other), I found that the leak was caused by excessive corrosion. So, check those metal pipes before loosing a gearbox to it.
Otherwise, I had very little trouble with this car and hope to be driving it for another few years. Current mileage is 85K.
#1647 of 2547 Re: Fuel Injector Seal (1999 626 4-cyl) [chrb]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Apr 11, 2005 (8:46 am)
I think these seals are rather standard sizes. You might find out who makes the injectors and talk to them.
Also talk to another dealer. I've always been able to order injector seals.
#1648 of 2547 SEEKING SERIOUS HELP
Apr 11, 2005 (10:56 am)
I RECENTLY BOUGHT A 1994 MAZDA 626 WITH 155,000 MILES ON IT. OKAY, I REALLY LIKED THE LOOK OF THE CAR, SO I DRIVE IT FOR A ABOUT A DAY AND WHAT DO U KNOW, THE HEADLIGHTS WOULDN'T COME ON! THEN TO MY HORROR I EXPERIENCED A WILD JERKING MOTION WHEN I ACCELERATED!!! THIS SCARED ME OUT OF MY WITS!!! AS IF THINGS COULDNT GET ANY WORSE WHILE DRIVING, THE STEERING WHEEL SHAKES HORRIBLY. IM AT A LOST FOR WORDS. THE OTHER NIGHT I ACTUALLY FELT LIKE CRYING. PLEASE, IF ANYONE HAS ANY SUGGESTIONS OR COMMENTS ON WHAT I SHOULD DO (OTHER THAN TRASH THE CAR) PLEASE LET ME KNOW.
#1649 of 2547 Re: BALL JOINTS - separating [alcan]
Apr 11, 2005 (12:35 pm)
thanks again for your help! after thinking about it a little, i realized that even if i COULD break those bolts loose, they would hit the knuckle before they could come out anyway... so basically, like you said, they need to be pressed apart/ back together. i was hoping to get away without doing an alignment, and new wheel bearings - but seems inevitable at this point. my acura is the same - press in/press out. if he hadn't waited so long to do his brakes, then his discs would still be good, but the pad backing has worn them down to almost nothing!
again, sincere thanks. (from my roommate too.) =)
(ps, i'll be tackling the rear drums next. should be easy from what i've heard, but i've just never done drum brakes before - so i may be back! fortunately i've already been able to remove the drums, which i hear can be real tough sometimes.)
#1650 of 2547 Re: SEEKING SERIOUS HELP [kiesha248]
Apr 11, 2005 (12:59 pm)
First, TURN OFF THE CAPS LOCK KEY. You don't need to shout.
Second, did the check engine light come on? If so, take it to AutoZone, have them retrieve the trouble codes (no charge), and post the code #'s. We can go from there.
#1651 of 2547 Re: BALL JOINTS - separating [dieselrulz]
Apr 11, 2005 (1:03 pm)
Chad, when you do the rears, do one side at a time and use the other side for reference. If not, you'll get amnesia 1 second after removing the last spring from the second side LOL.
#1652 of 2547 ALCAN read my post #1645 please
Apr 11, 2005 (2:24 pm)
Hi ALCAN. I posted #1645 and #1642 When you have time could you give me the benefit of your experience please.
#1653 of 2547 Re: Brakes & Trans fluid - [alcan]
Apr 11, 2005 (5:02 pm)
LOL - definitely good advice! i get that type of amnesia a lot i think... the just-after-it's-completely-disassembled amnesia. =D
i forgot to ask; when i pulled the axle out, there was a significant amount of gear oil that came out. on my acura, because the motor is longitudinal, i have a differential that takes 80/90 gear oil. this mazda i'm working on is horizontally mounted, so the axle goes straight into the tranny? (let me know if i'm wrong!) my acura takes 10/30 in it's 5spd trans, but what came out of the mazda definitely smelled like gear oil. what's recommended for the 5spd trans in this car? i'm guessing i get to pump it up into a fill bolt somewhere...
thanks, thanks, thanks... not sure how many more times i can say it. =)
#1654 of 2547 Re: Brakes & Trans fluid - [dieselrulz]
Apr 11, 2005 (7:15 pm)
You have a good nose. The manual transaxle fluid spec is SAE 90 EP gear oil if the temperature is above 0°F (-18°C), or SAE 80 EP gear oil or Dexron III ATF if the temperature is below 0°F (-18°C).:
To check/add lube, remove the speedo gear and housing from the top of the transaxle. The fluid level should be at the upper shoulder of the gear.
#1655 of 2547 Re: ALCAN read my post #1645 please [mazda626atx]
Apr 11, 2005 (7:17 pm)
Hang in there, I'm on it. Trying to locate the least expensive reader that will do the job.