Last post on Apr 15, 2013 at 8:56 AM
You are in the Mazda 626
What is this discussion about?
Mazda 626, Sedan
#1603 of 2544 626 V6
Sep 23, 2003 (5:28 pm)
I know somebody who has a 1994(?) 626 ES V6 with a 5 speed manual with about 170K miles on it and running strong. I have a 99 ES V6 5 speed model, which has been less than great, but the engine runs good and after warranty expiration the car has been surprisingly troublefree. However, the resale value is really bad, but that is good news for those buying a used model.
One advice: Whatever model you buy, stay away from the 4 cylinder automatic version. V6 models have much better auto transmission which is designed and built in Japan.
Maintenance costs can be rather high because these cars require frequent timing belt replacement (every 60k miles). And 98 and newer models have solid valve lifters which require adjustment every 60k miles. And this job on a V6 model is very time consuming and labor intensive, requiring special tools. Because of this, Mazda dealers charge about $ 525 for timing belt replacement and valve clearance check/adjustment on the V6 model. In addition to this you need to replace platinum plugs and plug wires every 60K miles, which will cost another $ 200. Plus fuel system maintenance. So 60K service on a V6 costs about $ 1000 and this assumes that nothing else goes wrong and no other parts are replaced. If you need EGR circuit cleaning, this can cost several hundred dollars on top of this. To me, these routine service costs appear very high for an entry level compact family sedan.
#1605 of 2544 unarchived by request
Feb 21, 2005 (1:35 pm)
#1606 of 2544 Water pump replacement probably something done very wrong by mechanic. Hel
Feb 22, 2005 (2:44 am)
On Jan 5th, 05 I had the water pump replaced on my Mazda 626. After taking the car home and letting it sit a few I noticed a small oil spot underneath the car. I moved the car a couple of feet and let it sit and the exact same shapped oil spot duplicated, so I took my car straight down the mechanic and the owner of the shop said that I have a oil sensor that is leaking "a little" and advised me to pick one up from a Mazda Dealer and he would install it. He said it would be about 15.00.
When I returned home I checked the oil level and to my surprise it was 2 quarts low! The next day I returned to the shop and the owner had one of his guys spend about 15 minutes under the car while it was jacked up on one side. When he was finished underneath I was told again that the only thing they could see that might be leaking was the sensor he had recommended.
Very soon after this date the car broke down on the freeway. Interesting enough after about five minutes the car drove fine again. There wasn't so much as even a miss in the timing. However, this happened a couple more times so back to the shop I went as the car cut out again on the freeway and I almost couldn't get it started that time.
At the end of the day, the owner called me and told me I could pick the car up and said he had replaced the rotor and cap (95.00). I picked the car up the next morning and made it about 2 miles and then was stranded on the freeway. After getting the car back to this shop, the owner says to me "I was going to tell you when you picked up the car that you should only drive it home because of oil contamination. He said it would be another $400.00 because oil was all over including in the spart plug holes. Lots of oil!
Is there more that the mech. should have done besides the water pump/gasket and two cam seals (and timing belt)? Is it possible their work caused this problem and if so, where should I look first?
#1607 of 2544 shifteing
Feb 22, 2005 (4:01 am)
Hi I have a 1993 mazad 626 and it started jerking to one side when it went into drive gear it doesn't do it in 1st or 2nd just when it shifts into drive any one else having this problem thanks.
#1608 of 2544 Re: auto transmission stick won't move from park! [carbuyer4646]
Feb 25, 2005 (3:42 am)
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 626, IT TURNED OUT TO BE A STICKY SOLENOID,DUE TO SPILLED PEPSI ON MY CONSOLE A FEW DAYS BEFORE. IT STICKS ALOT IN COLDER WEATHER. TAKE IT APART AND START CLEANING.
Feb 25, 2005 (3:50 am)
I HAVE A 94 626 IN NEED OF BOTH LOWER BALL JOINTS REPLACED. IS IT POSSIBLE TO REPLACE JUST THE BALL JOINTS , DO I HAVE TO REPLACE THE THE ENTIRE CONTROL ARM?
#1610 of 2544 Re: BALL JOINTS [626town]
Feb 25, 2005 (4:42 am)
Lower Ball Joints
Mazda 323/MX-3/626/MX-6/Millenia/Protégé 1990-1998
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Except MX-3, 323, Protege and Millenia
The lower ball joint is an integral part of the lower control and cannot be replaced separately. If the lower ball joint is defective, the entire lower control arm must be replaced.
#1611 of 2544 Re: BALL JOINTS [alcan]
Feb 26, 2005 (1:40 am)
wow! now i`m confused i went to the auto parts store and purchased the ball joint . If what you say is true why didn`t the auto parts tell me the same after i gave them my car specs. i`m going to have to take a look at this problem.
#1612 of 2544 Re: Water pump replacement probably something done very wrong by mechanic. Hel [karpher2]
Feb 27, 2005 (10:29 am)
Hey, karpher, I feel your pain.
One of the things one has to do to get to the water pump is get to the timing belt. To get to the timing belt, one has to get the valve cover out of the way. Once you are done and you are about to put everything back together again, you'll need a new valve cover gasket. If you don't put one, oil will splash all over and will get into your spark plugs. It will also leak down into the timing belt housing, and probably saturate the timing belt with oil.
I tell you this because my 'ex-mechanic' did this (i.e., did not use a new valve cover gasket), and two months later I had the 'check engine light' from hell. It was all due to oil going down the spark plug wells (these engines are DOHC). Check the repair bill and see if he charged you for a new gasket (he probably did use a new water pump gasket, I hope...). But if you see a lot of 'sealant-type' goop around the valve cover gasket (the piece of metal that has the 'MAZDA' imprint on it), chances are he just tried to seal the cover with the old gasket and sealant.
But that's my guess: He did not use a new gasket, that caused oil to leak (your oil loss) and get into the spark plugs (your car dying down the road).
But his 'oil pressure sender' problem seems like BS. I mean, was it working fine (i.e., not loosing oil) before you had the water pump replaced? If so, why would it start leaking oil after the water pump was replaced? I have a theory that requires mechanical parts having 'feelings': Maybe it had grown really attached to that water pump, was a very unhappy oil pressure sender after they installed a new one and thrown his old friend into a trash bin, and as retaliation against you it started leaking.
As I said, not likely...
Hope this helps,