Last post on Nov 16, 2013 at 8:34 AM
You are in the Mazda 626
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Mazda 626, Sedan
#1544 of 2547 Car not Starting
Jul 11, 2003 (7:08 am)
I have a 1995 Mazda 626 thats not starting up anymore. I can't get it to even turn over, A few days prior this to this problem I check my fuses for some reason,I jingled my fuses around and the car started up, no problem. It was like that for about 3 days and now it won't do anything. The battery wires are a little corroded were they connect to the battery. Does anybody no, what else it could be besides the wires before I work on it and end up spending more money than I need to.
#1545 of 2547 p100, irishalchemist, windowphobe6 et al...
Jul 11, 2003 (7:18 am)
Thanks for all your recent suggestions regarding transmission fluid change. However I just found out that the transmission on this 94 mazda 626 V6 with 88k miles was actaully flushed before, around the 60k mark.
Does does impact your recommendation on getting it flushed now versus draining/sucking it out and refilling (i.e. is it safe to flush fluid that has been flushed before and is not as old as I had thought it was)?
Thanks again for all your input.
#1546 of 2547 P100 Headlight problems
Jul 11, 2003 (9:24 am)
Thanks for your advice on the headlight problem. The light switch roll type of dial, must be the problem. The problem that you had is dead on with what I am experiencing. I will try changing it out. Thanks again!
#1547 of 2547 Flushing fresher fluid
Jul 11, 2003 (4:08 pm)
(I'd hate to have to say that fast three times.)
Actually, flushing is probably safer now, since it's less likely that the seals and such have deteriorated from exposure to used-up fluid.
Still, since the GF4A-EL has a real filter of sorts, I think it's probably worth dropping the pan in the traditional manner, just to see what sort of gunk has accumulated in there.
Jul 12, 2003 (2:35 pm)
I noticed a few days ago that the battery installed in my '96 626 4-cyl. auto is rated CCA 500. By checking several internet sources it seems that the right CCA should be 580. I don't have problems starting the car, but I wonder if the low CCA might have possible effects on the electric system. Should I change it asap?
#1549 of 2547 my battery
Jul 12, 2003 (4:44 pm)
The cold cranking amps (CCA) rating of 500 means that your battery can deliver 500 Amps of current for 30 seconds at 0 deg F and still maintain a terminal voltage of 7.2Volts(1.2 Vots per each cell).
I do not know the starter motor power output for the 96 model, but the starter for the 99 4 cyl 626 is rated at 1000 Watts, or 1 kW. The current drawn by the starter at 12 Volts is then 83.3 amps. Because your starter is a DC motor, and DC motors require up to 300 % of the running current to start, instantaneous current draw can be as high as 250 amps. This draws occurs for a very short time and then the starter current draw will drop back to 83 amps.
Keep in mind that when you crank your engine, all other accessories are switched off automatically, so your starter current draw is the only load on the battery for the duration of cranking. No other accessory on the car will draw as much current as your starter motor.
So in conclusion, your 500 CCA battery has more than twice the required capacity to start your car under the worst conditions.
Jul 12, 2003 (4:51 pm)
Thanks, p100, for the detailed info!
#1551 of 2547 626 troubles
Jul 13, 2003 (12:43 pm)
I have a '01 626 V6 ES and have had numerous problems. I've been thru 5 CD/radios b/c the Bose system would eat my CD's and not reject them. It would also disable the tuner. No tunes for a salesman driving 2k miles per month. Not to mention Mazda wouldn't order the radio for me until they verified the problem first hand. Hello, I think I can determine that the radio just ate my CD and will not give it back. Then there is the loud clicking every other time I shut my sunroof or the flooded floorboards after a pretty good down pour in Daytona Bch, FL. or even the slow radiator leek that they say is undetectable. How 'bout looking at my anti-freeze receipts from Chevron. Someone please steal my Mazda so I can go back to an Accord. I had a '93 then a '97 put 180K miles between the two of them without one problem big or small.
Jul 13, 2003 (1:46 pm)
tjexas: meet you by the cliff at 10pm tonight. We'll "race" our cars to the bottom; P100, wanna join us???...he, he, he..................(8 ^ (l)
#1553 of 2547 maxx4me and tjexas
Jul 13, 2003 (5:19 pm)
Sounds tempting......except it's hard to find any cliffs here in Florida. Maybe drive them off a bridge?
Some suggestions for tjexas:
Sounds like your sunroof relay may be sticking and chattering intermittently
I had a slow coolant leak too and it turned out to be a leaking coolant overflow bottle along the bottom seam. The leak was very slow, and in my case hot coolant leaked into the A/C compressor clutch harness connector, and caused intermittent A/C problems, which nobody could find for months. My local Mazda dealer told me that there is nothing they can do until the A/C quits for good. I described the problem as electrical in origin, yet they never ran a resistance check on the clutch wires to see if they are OK. Anyway, finally the coolant leak got worse and the A/C quit. Replacing the overflow bottle took care of the problem for good. Mazda never recalled these overflow bottles although there are known problems with them.
Bose radio: never experienced any problem with mine - they should replace yours under warranty
Water leaks: there could be number of entry points. I would make sure that the sunroof drain tubes are clean (blow them through with compressed air).
Hesitation problems: you may not have any yet, but before you experience them, sugest you use Techron in your fuel system regularly (about once every ten tankfulls) and replace your spark plugs and plug wires at 60K. These V6 engines are extremely sensitve to carbon buildup and Techron helps prevent it. Walmart sells Techron for about $6 a bottle. Use one botle with about 12 gallons of gas. I was skeptical at first about using the stuff, but it really works