Last post on Nov 16, 2013 at 8:34 AM
You are in the Mazda 626
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Mazda 626, Sedan
#1496 of 2547 2000 Mazda 626 LX V6 problems
Jun 22, 2003 (7:35 pm)
I'm having a few problems with my car(40,000 miles) and would appreciate any help.
(1)Jerking: Not sure if the problem is technically classified as jerking but here is what happens. Try to accelearate the car gently(from about 10-15mph to 15-20mph) in slow traffic or in a parking lot and the car kind of jumps. Happens only in a small speed range(10-25mph) and for very gentle accelaration. Normal acceleration works fine. Am I doing something wrong or is this a known problem? This issue is an irritant if nothing else, now I'm just used to not accelerating in a certain way at certain speeds in order to avoid the jumping.
(2)Hesitation: At times if I really push the gas hard(I'm at about 30 and push the pedal all the way) it appears that the car almost pauses(as if its flabbergasted) for about a second before taking off. I don't usually do this too often but is this the expected behavior for the 626.
(3)Dosen't start: This has happened about 7 times in about 40,000 miles, again, an irritant. The engine just refuses to start. Usually if I change the gears and restart, works fine. Only once did I have to jump several hoops to start the car(shifted the gears several times, removed the keys, applied the key about 4 times before the car started)
#1497 of 2547 2000 LX V6 problems
Jun 23, 2003 (6:51 pm)
Recommend try the following:
Inspect all plug wire boots for any signs of carbon. Need to pull these off the plugs gently by the boots. These V6 engines are supposedly susceptible to "carbon tracking". There were several posts on this topic. If you see any carbon deposits, the best remedy is to replace the plugs and plug wires.
Buy several bottles of Techron fuel system cleaner (Wallmart sells it) and pour into your fuel tank (one per tankful of fuel following the instructions on the bottle). If this does not help I would consider having the injectors and the throttle body professionally cleaned by the Mazda dealer (about $ 100).
Car refusing to start: Does this mean it will not crank? If so, you have an electrical problem somewhere, possibly corroded battery cable connection at the starter, or perhaps alarm system interlock intermittent problem.
The problems you described are not normal for a V6 Mazda. I have a 99 V6 and do not have any of these problems. I had some minor hesitation at higher speeds, but this was cured by replacing the plugs and wires at 60K miles and using Techron in my gas tank.
You could repost your problem on the following site: network54.com/Hide/Forum/15854?it=1
There is a Mazda mechanic who responds to a lot of inquiries on this site and from what I have seen he is quite knowledgeable.
What kind of fuel are you using in your vehicle? I have found out that this engine does not perform the same with all fuel brands. Recommend use only brand name fuel such as Chevron or Mobil. Stay away from nondescript gas stations. I have had good experience with Chevron midgrade octane gas in my car.
#1498 of 2547 Rear Calipers 626
Jun 23, 2003 (8:56 pm)
If anybody has been told their rear calipers are frozen, you probably got taken as there is a cap and beneath it an adjustment screw (hex head). the cap is in the middle and rear of the caliper. This was my first experience with a caliper of this type, so benefit from my experience. My car is a 98 626 LX-6.
Jun 24, 2003 (2:57 am)
That's the adjustment gear for the parking brake adjustment bolt.
#1500 of 2547 re:rear calipers
Jun 24, 2003 (1:50 pm)
i have a 2000 lx v6 that the right rear brake keeps freezing up and makes a screeching sound only when it rains or when it cold out. it happens when i put the car in reverse and back out . a mechanic who looked at it said that he had to cut down the rotor and that fixed the problem, until it rained and the screeching came back. it does it for a few seconds when i press the brake pedal down and after that no more noise until the car sits for at least an hour then it comes back. very weird. doesn't happen on warm dry days only cold and wet days. any ideas?
#1501 of 2547 gas for mazda
Jun 24, 2003 (2:31 pm)
From a guy whose had every problem in the world with his 626, including pinging: I recommend using only Amoco, Sunoco or Chevron. All work well in the Mazdas. I would avoid Mobil, as the additives tend to make the car ping.
#1502 of 2547 gas for Mazda
Jun 24, 2003 (6:08 pm)
Additives in Mobil gas that cause pinging? Never heard of that before.
There are several reasons for engine pinging noise:
1. Heavy carbon buildup on tops of pistons and valves. The carbon will glow red when engine gets hot and causes preignition - hence the pinging noise
2. Nonfunctional EGR valve. I have experienced this myself on an American car. The EGR valve introduces calibrated amount of exhaust gas into the intake manifold and by doing so lowers the combustion temperature in the cylinders a small amount.
3. Base ignition timing that is advanced too far
In general, pinging can be stopped by going to high octane (premium ) fuel in most cases.
I do not use regular gas in my 99 Mazda 626 V6. Mazda recommends premium in this car but I found out that premium fuel is a waste of money. Mid grade octane works best. Never had a problem with Mobil mid grade. I tried also regular gas - there never was any pinging. I believe that these engines have a knock sensor which will respond to pinging immediately and back off the ignition timing to eliminate it.
Many experts recommend Techron to clean out and decarbonize your engine and fuel system. I had great luck with the GM product called "GM top engine cleaner". This was liquid that your poured into carburetor with the engine running and it would effectively clean out the carbon buildup in your cylinders. I do not know if they sell pressurized canisters of this stuff for fuel injected cars. But this product worked great.
#1504 of 2547 Change Transmission Fluid or Not?
Jun 24, 2003 (6:54 pm)
Hi, I am wondering if it is a good idea to change the transmission fluid (either by "drain and fill" or by a "flush")or is it better to leave it alone at this point, for a 94 mazda 626 v-6 that has about 88k miles and has never had the transmission fluid changed?
Any advice will be very helpful and appreciated.
#1505 of 2547 transmission fluid
Jun 24, 2003 (7:43 pm)
Definitely change the fluid and transmission filter and the pan gasket. Better late than never.