Last post on Nov 16, 2013 at 8:34 AM
You are in the Mazda 626
What is this discussion about?
Mazda 626, Sedan
Jan 14, 2003 (8:16 am)
I purchased a new leftover 2000 Mazda 626 LX with the V6 & 5 speed trans in May of 2001. I commute a fair distance, so I have already put on 49,600
miles. Driving to work yesterday at about the 45 mile mark of my 50 mile commute, the dash lit up like a christmas tree and the car just died. Luckily, I was able to coast to the side of the expressway before becoming involved in an accident. I could not restart the car and after having it towed to the dealer I bought the car from, was told that they believed I had a "fried"
Power Control Module. Has anyone else out there experienced or heard of this being a problem with this car ? Any suggestions as to what could cause a unit like this to blow ? It's a $700.00
unit according to the dealer and I'd hate to be replacing one of these after every 50K miles. Hopefully, this part and the labor to install it will be covered under the 3yr/50k "bumper-to-bumper" warranty...any thoughts ???
Jan 14, 2003 (4:42 pm)
As a longtime DRL hater, I'd like to tell you that I paid off the guy to kill them, but t'ain't so.
DRLs run off the METER fuse, so that should be the first thing to check. The other things which might inhibit DRLs - parking-brake switch, a misaligned ignition switch - wouldn't have much effect on the gauge panel.
Jan 14, 2003 (4:56 pm)
It's not especially common, but any computer (and that's all this thing is) can fail, and the timing of the failure always seems to be geared toward maximum inconvenience. The prices seem to be coming down, though; the PCM on my '93 was priced at a stiff $1700.
Jan 14, 2003 (4:59 pm)
Condensation inside the lock cylinders can make the alarm go nuts. You might consider replacing the cylinders, especially since the little snap-guard is broken on one door, but first see if it responds to a graphite treatment (squeeze a bit onto the key, insert, do some hokey-pokey, wipe off any spillage).
#1399 of 2547 1997 626 LX Auto Transmission Trouble
Jan 14, 2003 (6:31 pm)
My car won't shift into drive when it's cold. It didn't do this last winter. It's starting to happen with some frequency -Even when I let it warm up for several minutes. I just had the transmission fluid changed out and my 60,000 mile maintenance performed two months ago. Ever hear of cold causing transmission problems?
#1400 of 2547 pcm problems and transmissions
Jan 14, 2003 (7:34 pm)
The pcm is warranted for 8yr/80k on every mazda. Pcm failure is rare, and I would expect that you wouldnt have another problem unless there is an outside condition causing the failure.(water leak, spilled soda etc.,)
I happen to have a pcm for a calif/emission 96 626/auto trans on ebay that has all the technical updates if anyone is interested. I have another one for sale if anyone needs one as well.
Jts your trans problem sounds typical if you have a four cylinder. This trans unit does not work well in the 626 without additional help from an additional external cooler. I am assuming when you say it "wont shift into drive" you mean it wont move in "D" range. The fluid that was removed from your trans at the 60k service was probably better off staying in there. The replacement of the trans fluid at high miles(when the trans is working fine) seems to cause more damage for some reason. Of course your dealer wont tell you that......
#1401 of 2547 Thanks windowphobe6
Jan 15, 2003 (8:20 am)
I don't necessarily have any plans to fix the DRL's but was curious how to if I decided to. I will probably get adventurous some weekend and try to replace the panel bulbs behind the tach. Really appreciate your reply!
#1402 of 2547 Alarm thanks
Jan 15, 2003 (9:48 am)
I'll try disassembly. I kind of figured condensation may be a cause.
Meanwhile, I've found that a quick locking-unlocking-relocking disarms the alarm yet locks all doors.
Jan 15, 2003 (1:31 pm)
1995 626 4cyl. VIN # 1YVGE22C0S5404418
trans would not go in any position including rev. replaced the range sensor / switch inhibtor and the tranny works in reverse and in all fwd positions but only in first gear.what could be causing this.how could i pull the codes on this vehicle. i beleive that it has the EEC-IV system. thanks, john
Jan 15, 2003 (1:47 pm)
Pretty sure the '95 is OBD-II compliant, which means a scan tool is required for code retrieval. The emission sticker under the hood will state either OBD or OBD-II. Another way to tell OBD-II is a 16 pin, 2 row connector below the dash for scan tool plug in. The no shift could be a vehicle speed sensor circuit problem or range switch misadjustment.