2544 messages,
Last post on Apr 15, 2013 at 8:56 AM
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Mazda 626 Forum.
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Mazda 626, Sedan

#1353 of 2544 More symptoms
by ece3446
Nov 24, 2002 (2:10 pm)
Hi all,
I seem to have a very specific problem. When I start the car in the morning, after about 5-10 minutes the tacho goes straight to zero and I get absolutely nothing from the engine. I have to wait about 10 minutes and the car seems to start up as nothing ever happened. And then I am good for the rest of the day.
So what I have started doing is I leave my car idling in the morning before going to school, and it invariably stops. I then wait for 10 minutes and restart and go about my business. Seems to be working for now but am not sure for how long this is gonna hold up.
Any ideas what is going on ??
From the posts before I gather that it might very well be the distributor. But I replaced the distributor just a year ago.
- Could it have gone bad so soon ??
- Is there any kind of warranty for the distributors ??
- Were'nt the new distributors fixed for this known problem ??
- Can I put in a working distributor that I bought from ebay for a ford probe into this car or do I need to spend 400 bucks again ??
- Lastly can it be anything else ??
Thanks all and sorry for the long post.
P.S. BTW,I have a 1993 Mazda 626 4 cyl. 5 spd. with 215,000 miles.
Dec 02, 2002 (9:54 am)
I have a '99 626 LX Mechanically it has been a good car but the integrity is lacking. As soon as I picked up the car the gear shift knob came off in my hand. The antenna no longer retracts or extends fully after 2 winters. The worst thing though is the headrests. Both are broken! The cushions won't stay up on the rods, they just sink down. I had one of them replaced (supposedly) when the car was still under warranty,and it broke again. Now I have two useless, dangerous headrests and no recourse. Has anyone else had this problem?
Dec 04, 2002 (8:22 pm)
I have a '95 Mazda 626 with manual transmission. Several months ago I noticed it was getting more difficult to shift into first, but not the other gears. Now that the weather is getting cold, it's become very difficult. The gears don't grind...it just resists going into gear. I have to be at a complete dead stop and then use some force to get into first. I also noticed that it's not a clean shift into 2nd now. It gets much better after the car has been running. I just had the transmission fluid changed with no noticeable effect on the problem. Any ideas?
Dan
#1356 of 2544 shifting woes here too
by naz_sparky
Dec 05, 2002 (2:47 pm)
1996 Mazda 626 LX V6 same shifting problem every now and then. I bought this car 8 months back and have put on 9000 miles on it since. I have replaced the following on this car
- new clutch
- new front rotors and pads
- new power steering pump
- two new CV boots
- new vacuum chambers
- new alternator
- new motor mounts
it needs a new radiator and a new throttle position sensor as well. i have sunk $3500 into it so far and i think it is now running okay...never buy mazda again unless they decide to stop putting in ford parts in their cars!! as my mechanic says, ford and mazda in bed together making some really UGLY babies!!
Dec 06, 2002 (7:07 am)
Hi, long time no post. This one is regarding 'clunks' coming from the steering components (struts or strut mounts likely) when I turn. The car is a 95 LX L4 ATX. I know that my driver side strut bearing needs replacement (that was one clunk), but now, in cold mornings, I can hear another similar clunk coming from somewhere else. Question: Could it be the other (passenger side) bearing that is starting to give, and I notice it in cold weather more because the lubrication is sticky? I am about to order the bearings for both sides, but would like some opinions on this before I take off the struts, compress the springs, kill the cat when the spring flies of the vise, screw up all the alignment (which it needs anyway...), etc., etc. Plus, it's cold here in Philly, and working on the car outside is a pain...
TIA, G.
#1358 of 2544 Frost Plug Location?
by notaporsche
Dec 09, 2002 (10:56 am)
Anyone here know off-hand where the frost plug (block heater) hole is in the engine block of a 1993 626 2.0L 4cyl? Is it hard or easy to get at? Its survived this many years without one but the girl is growing too old and tired for our harsh winters here.
Another question. Would a battery blanket be just as effective as a block heater for cold starts?
Dec 09, 2002 (5:18 pm)
I've not heard any previous complaints about the headrests, though anything is breakable under the right - or the wrong - circumstances.
Problems shifting? Is the clutch working properly?
I'd suspect a strut mount before the actual bearing, but it's really impossible to tell without putting the squeeze on the darn thing.
And to be honest, I've never even looked for the freeze plug on the 2.0s I've owned; then again, it hasn't gotten down much below 10 (-12 C) here. Things are way different Up North. I suspect, though, it's tricky to get to.
Dec 11, 2002 (12:09 pm)
When I installed my block heater it was put in the freeze plus located in the left front of the engine of my 1991. Block heaters are an enormous benefit to keep the engine warm and running smooth when temps are below freezing.
Dec 12, 2002 (6:14 pm)
my 1995 mazda 626 4 cyl auto tranny died. around three months ago i drained the atx fluid. it came out in gobs. lot of sludge. i replaced the fluid and added lubeguard.i drove the car for a couple of weeks then parked it for a couple of months. i started it today and it would hardly move forward with high rpms reverse did the same it wont move but a couple of feet and that's it. what could have happened. all help will be appreciated. thanks, john
john3321
webtv.net
Dec 12, 2002 (8:38 pm)
Might be a clogged filter, from your description of the old fluid. If not, probably the pressure regulator valve in the transaxle is stuck. An oil pressure test would determine if it is.