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Mazda 626 Troubles

2544 messages,  Last post on Apr 15, 2013 at 8:56 AM

You are in the Mazda 626 Forum.

What is this discussion about? Mazda 626, Sedan




Messages Page 133 of 255

#1315 of 2544 Synthetic Oil on higher milegae car by ece3446

Sep 16, 2002 (9:04 am)

HI all,
I have a 1993 mazda 626 5 spd. with 215,000 miles. Since the last 30,000 miles I have been putting Mobil 1 10w-30 Synthetic and I was wondering if this is bad for my car or even simply a waste of my money. It s just that I have not noticed a difference one way or the other, and infact someone told me that I should not be using synthetic oil in such a high mileage car. Thanks for any advice.
 
Sabir.

#1316 of 2544 Synthetic at 215K. A big Nope. by mrdetailer

Sep 16, 2002 (12:47 pm)

Unless you want to pay for oil seal repairs. Synthetic cleans out the conventional oil deposits that keep the engine seals from leaking (pinholes). Then once it exposes the hole it gushes all over. Much more than a leak with conventional. It cost me some bucks to get that repair fixed since I had to do the timing belt as well. Conventional swells seals slightly, and while syn doesn't harden the seals, neither does it soften them.
 
Seriously if it's been running synthetic before keep it up. But it it's been used to conventional I would drain out half of the synthetic and replace it with conventional.
 
Never had a problem with seals on a 50--50 mix of Maxlife and synthetic. Get 2-3 gallons better on gas mileage too.

#1317 of 2544 Mazda 626 Transmision Fluid Leak from Breather Hose by redapple2

Sep 17, 2002 (1:37 am)

I have a 1995 4 cyl auto 626 with 100,000 miles on it, and it has just developed a transmission fluid leak through the breather hose. The fluid does not look or smell burnt and there is no change in the performance of the car indicating slippage, but it still drips about a tablespoon of oil every 60 or 70 miles. I've been told it could be an overheating problem or it might be a worn or broken gasket inside the transmission. How many people have had the same problem and has anybody been able to find a solution?

#1318 of 2544 Defroster by dhoff

Sep 19, 2002 (11:29 am)

Anyone have any experience with the windshield defrost not working? On my 94 626 (which I bought used this summer) I've just discovered that no air comes out of the windshield defrost vents, no matter which button I push on the dash controls. Also, air always comes out of the dash vents, even if I turn off the little dial that is supposed to shut them off when that air in in the defrost or foot heat position.
 
I can get air to come out of the foot vents. Seems to me some mechanism may be broken or out of adjsutment. Anyone here have any experience with this?
 
Dave

#1319 of 2544 Defrost by mrdetailer

Sep 19, 2002 (12:05 pm)

Did your heat ducts to the defrost break or get disconnected?

#1320 of 2544 mrdetailer by dhoff

Sep 20, 2002 (10:17 am)

I suppose that's possible, but unlikeley. I'll have to get under the dash & maybe take it apart to see if I can find anything obvious that's broken. I'm jsut wondering if there's a known problem or weak spot with this. If I can't figure it out, it will have to bo off to the mechanic.
 
Dave

#1321 of 2544 Defrost by jskho

Sep 20, 2002 (12:22 pm)

When you press the defrost button, do you here the sound of the motor?
I would think the motor is the likely culprit.

#1322 of 2544 heat conduits by mrdetailer

Sep 20, 2002 (3:34 pm)

Years ago I had a Plymouth where the flexible pipe that carried the air would become disconnected. We would have to reconnect it then tape it with Red-Greens universal solution (duct tape) and then it would work for a while.
 
Didn't have to pull out the dash.

#1323 of 2544 V-springs missing? by irishalchemist

Sep 28, 2002 (2:26 pm)

Been doing brakes for two weekends now. Last weekend on a Protege, today on the 626 (95 L4, ATX). The idiots at the last place I took it for the state inspection cross-threaded two lug-nuts, so after trying to get them out, I broke the studs. So the break job turned into a stud replacement. Then I realized I needed a 7 mm allen to remove the caliper. Oh, well, I am fortunate to have a parts shop nearby, so I walked, got all the extra stuff I needed, walked back, and proceded to do everything.
 
It went well at the end. One thing I noticed, although I saw the guide plates for the pads (the convoluted metal plates), I did not see any V-springs. Every place I read talks about them, and I remember the Protege I did last weekend had them too. Did certain models did not use them? Should I have them there? I figure that if the pads are not springing back, the brakes would drag like crazy, and it seemed (and seems) to brake fine - No drag whatsoever. Should I get them and put them there? The problem I had that prompted me to do the brakes (vibrations form warped rotors) is gone, so I figure everything is OK. Tell me if it is not...
 
Guillermo

#1324 of 2544 by alcan

Sep 29, 2002 (4:49 am)

Pads don't "spring back". Guide plates take up any clearance between the ends of the pads and their supports, preventing the pads from rattling over bumps or clunking due to clocking when they're applied. They also reduce wear on the buttress where the pad ends contact.
 
All conventional disc brakes retract the piston and provide automatic self adjustment the same way. The lathe-cut high pressure seal between the caliper housing and piston distorts under brake apply as the piston moves outward, then relaxes and pulls the piston back slightly when pressure's released. That provides running clearance for the pads, IF a caliper piston isn't seized and the caliper slides are free and lubricated.

Messages Page 133 of 255

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