Last post on Nov 16, 2013 at 8:34 AM
You are in the Mazda 626
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Mazda 626, Sedan
#1311 of 2547 valve cover leak
Sep 10, 2002 (4:00 pm)
1995 mazda 4 cyl a/t 626
i noticed an oil leak coming from the valve cover gasket. i was looking to see how much trouble it would be to remove the cover. there is an air condition line that runs over the top and i don't think there will be enough slack in it to allow the cover to be removed. will i have to remove the a/c compressor in order to get enough slack in the line to allow the valve cover to be removed. please advise. thanks, john
Sep 10, 2002 (4:59 pm)
I seem to have hit the Unsubscribe button at some point. (Nothing surprises me anymore, not even seeing three '95s in a row.)
Pulling the valve cover gasket: I'd expect more trouble with the power-steering pump, which is mounted fairly close in.
Cooling tranny oil: The "cooler" is a section within the radiator, and not enough of one, if you ask me. Have them add on an auxiliary cooler, or get another garage.
Idle: Not adjustable. You can turn the mixture screw all you want and it won't change the computer's tiny mind one whit. If you're running hot with the A/C on, the electric fan array is probably not doing its job.
#1313 of 2547 CV boots and water pump.
Sep 13, 2002 (4:39 pm)
I have a 1993 626 ES V6 stick (sounds like the stick is better from what I've read). Just got the timing belt done at 90k (figured I had used up my luck there), also the water pump, as it was leaking. I also had to get the axle replaced as I didn't notice a busted CV boot in time (axle part is $99, includes boot and joint). Also the front valve cover gasket.
(By the way, if anybody lives in the Orlando FL area, I know a great mechanic for foreign cars, honest and reasonable. For example, I was quoted $1100 for a replacment A/C compressor from another place (my mechanic was in the hospital). I lived without A/C until he got out, and replaced the compressor for $250, and converted it to R-134).
Anyhow, my issue is that the CV boots on this car keep wearing out, every 10,000 miles it seems. My mechanic says he could make a living changing CV boots for 626's. Does anyone else have this problem?
Also, the car is still leaking water, but the symptoms have changed. It drips a lot when I start it up and start moving. I may have overfilled the emergency coolant, would that cause this?
Other than the A/C and the %#$$ CV boots, the car is great. I taught my wife to drive a stick, and she loves this car so much that I have to drive the mini-van!! (don't worry, I have a 92 Nissan Sentra for going to work - very economical..)
Sep 14, 2002 (7:53 am)
Typical lifetime of the CV boots, from what I've seen, seems to be 60k to 80k; I lost one boot on my '93 at 85k, and the second was on its way. Then again, I'm a long way from the ocean.
If the overflow tank is overfull, yes, it can slosh stuff out of its top. (Normally, it should appear to be about half full.)
#1315 of 2547 Synthetic Oil on higher milegae car
Sep 16, 2002 (8:04 am)
I have a 1993 mazda 626 5 spd. with 215,000 miles. Since the last 30,000 miles I have been putting Mobil 1 10w-30 Synthetic and I was wondering if this is bad for my car or even simply a waste of my money. It s just that I have not noticed a difference one way or the other, and infact someone told me that I should not be using synthetic oil in such a high mileage car. Thanks for any advice.
#1316 of 2547 Synthetic at 215K. A big Nope.
Sep 16, 2002 (11:47 am)
Unless you want to pay for oil seal repairs. Synthetic cleans out the conventional oil deposits that keep the engine seals from leaking (pinholes). Then once it exposes the hole it gushes all over. Much more than a leak with conventional. It cost me some bucks to get that repair fixed since I had to do the timing belt as well. Conventional swells seals slightly, and while syn doesn't harden the seals, neither does it soften them.
Seriously if it's been running synthetic before keep it up. But it it's been used to conventional I would drain out half of the synthetic and replace it with conventional.
Never had a problem with seals on a 50--50 mix of Maxlife and synthetic. Get 2-3 gallons better on gas mileage too.
#1317 of 2547 Mazda 626 Transmision Fluid Leak from Breather Hose
Sep 17, 2002 (12:37 am)
I have a 1995 4 cyl auto 626 with 100,000 miles on it, and it has just developed a transmission fluid leak through the breather hose. The fluid does not look or smell burnt and there is no change in the performance of the car indicating slippage, but it still drips about a tablespoon of oil every 60 or 70 miles. I've been told it could be an overheating problem or it might be a worn or broken gasket inside the transmission. How many people have had the same problem and has anybody been able to find a solution?
#1318 of 2547 Defroster
Sep 19, 2002 (10:29 am)
Anyone have any experience with the windshield defrost not working? On my 94 626 (which I bought used this summer) I've just discovered that no air comes out of the windshield defrost vents, no matter which button I push on the dash controls. Also, air always comes out of the dash vents, even if I turn off the little dial that is supposed to shut them off when that air in in the defrost or foot heat position.
I can get air to come out of the foot vents. Seems to me some mechanism may be broken or out of adjsutment. Anyone here have any experience with this?
Sep 19, 2002 (11:05 am)
Did your heat ducts to the defrost break or get disconnected?
#1320 of 2547 mrdetailer
Sep 20, 2002 (9:17 am)
I suppose that's possible, but unlikeley. I'll have to get under the dash & maybe take it apart to see if I can find anything obvious that's broken. I'm jsut wondering if there's a known problem or weak spot with this. If I can't figure it out, it will have to bo off to the mechanic.