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Mazda 626 Troubles
2544 messages, Last post on Apr 15, 2013 at 8:56 AM
You are in the Mazda 626 Forum.What is this discussion about? Mazda 626, Sedan
#1202 of 2544 Another problem !! by ece3446
Jun 30, 2002 (9:55 am)
Hi all,I have a 1993 Mazda 626 LX 4 cyl, 5 spd.with 203k miles. I posted here before when I had the cranking problem. It turns out I was'nt pressing the clutch while starting and hence the problem. Pretty stupid, considering I have had the car for so long.
Anywayz all this happened because of another problem I 've been having. Its like this :
Whenever I drive for a long period of time(maybe 45 minutes or more) and shut the car, and try to start immediately afterwards, the car sputters and eventually dies. If I hang around for awhile (maybe 20 minutes or more), it does start. DOes anyone have a clue about this ??
Sorry about the previous post, and thanks for all the replies.
Sabir.
#1203 of 2544 starting problem by qbrozen
Jun 30, 2002 (7:07 pm)
I don't really consider this a problem with a high mileage older car. Maybe other people have a different opinion. But, anyway, I have had this issue with most of my older cars. I think somebody once told me it had to do with the car trying to go into "cold start" mode while, in reality, the car was already warmed up because you were just driving it. Regardless, I just avoided shutting it off if I knew I needed to start it up again within a few minutes.#1204 of 2544 Mine had a similar problem. by mrdetailer
Jul 03, 2002 (4:16 pm)
My battery was weak and the heat assisted it into its grave. If the usual tuneup, change PCV valve, and timing have been adjusted you may have a distributer assembly issue.This week, after the battery was replaced, it didn't seem to have much juice, and still had problems starting. It had been timed just last January. The mechanic checked the Distribuor assembly. In my 1991, it has some springs and other mechanisms that advance the speed rather than the usual vacuum. You vehicle is a similar year. They cleaned up the distributor assembly and the car starts easily and has its original pep. They cleaned it up because it is an expensive part to replace.
Hope this helps.
#1205 of 2544 94 626 Transmission Fluid by dhoff
Jul 09, 2002 (11:20 am)
I'm going to change the oil & filter on the $2000 626 tonight, and I've been thinking of doing the tranny fluid as well. (It's a 5 speed).Only problem is, I can't figure out how to fill it. I've located what I believe is the drain plug, but I can't figure out where I'd fill it. The owner's manual only shows the automatic version and makes no mention of how to check the level or change the 5 speed fluid, though it does give a fluid recommendation and capacity.
Can anybody here help me out? I'm in the process of checking out a Haynes service manual form the local library system, but it won't be in for a few days.
After a couple of weeks, it's still running and the AC works well. I keep finding little problems with it though. One of the bolts holding the sway bar to a link is broken, it needs new struts, the check engine light comes on once in a while, and the trunk and passenger door key locks are buggered and don't work. The driver's door one still works, but it's loose and I kind of worry about that one breaking too and being locked out. Any words of wisdom for those as well?
Dave
#1206 of 2544 I hope I'm done for a while!!! by agt_cooper
Jul 10, 2002 (6:25 am)
With just short of 70k miles on my '97 626 V-6 5-spd, I've just spent a small fortune on the common repair items:CV joint boots, both sides
Valve cover gaskets
cruise control vacuum line
Throttle body and intake cleaning
Interestingly enough, the brakes, which I thought would be needing replaced by now, are still fine, allowing me to pass the state safety inspection.
Hopefully, I have another 70k miles left in the vehicle without too many major expenses. It's still quick and the V-6 loves to rev!!
#1207 of 2544 agt_cooper by jskho
Jul 10, 2002 (1:24 pm)
Did you clean the throttle body and intake yourself? How is that done?#1208 of 2544 No, I'm far too lazy for that!! by agt_cooper
Jul 10, 2002 (9:09 pm)
My good friends at Rosenthal Mazda took care of all the work....the induction system cleaning was 99.00.I've done it in the past, but I always seem to end up tripping the "check engine" light. Basically, what I did was disconnect the air intake from the throttle body, disconnect the wiring harness from the intake tube (is that a mass airflow sensor?), then plug all disconnected vacuum lines.
Next, I used a Gumout throttle body cleaner and a toothbrush to clean everything I could reach, with and without the engine running.
The dealer used a BG system, including a product that goes into the tank to clean fuel injectors, etc. I'm not sure how effective the whole thing was; only time will tell.
Total bill was 1259.00!!!! Ouch!!! The timing belt notwithstanding, this is the only money I've spent on this car apart from tires, so I'm not unhappy. Now, if ten more things break in the next year, I will have to think about a replacement vehicle!!
#1209 of 2544 Re: 94 626 Transmission Fluid by slickdog
Jul 11, 2002 (9:21 am)
dhoff, check out the following URL's for info on changing the 626 MT oil:
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dorothy.bradbury/probemx/index.htm
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dorothy.bradbury/probemx/p_m10.htm
This site is invaluable if you don't want to spend the $100+ on the factory service manual. I've found it to be very accurate for regular maintenance procedures. The first URL (the site's home page) has some information about halfway down on selecting the proper tranny oil, and the second URL contains the procedure for doing the change.
The hard part is obtaining the proper oil. None of the local or national auto parts stores in my area carried a decent GL-4 oil of the proper weight. I ended up ordering some Redline MT-90 online, and although it's quite expensive, it was well worth the money. My 626 is only a 2000, with 22K miles, and the tranny was already starting to get "notchy" and difficult to downshift at high speeds (especially in winter). Once I put the synthetic Redline in, and took it out for a spin, I noticed a HUGE improvement right at the first 1-2 shift.
I don't know if your '94 is the same as my '00, but my fill plug is about 1/3 of the way up on the front of the case, and it's 23mm just like the drain plug. Follow the abovementioned site's instructions exactly, and you should have the job done in minutes. The only thing I would add is don't bother with the turkey baster because it takes forever to pump 4 qts. of fluid in with one. I've got one of those flexible fluid fill tubes from Pep Boys that has a valve on top, and it worked beautifully pouring the oil into it from up where you remove the air box. Furthermore, don't bother with the regular hardware stores to find a 23mm socket for the drain/fill plugs. I had to go to a Napa auto parts store to find one, because it's a fairly odd size that isn't commonly used
Hope this helps, good luck...
#1210 of 2544 Our beloved DoubleOughts by skibry1
Jul 11, 2002 (8:31 pm)
Hey slickdog how do SAY the year of your 626? My wife and I love our '00 Freeport with a left-leg-flexor attached to 130 ponies.We have about 28.5K
on her and she has been a trouble free Zoom/Zoom
since it read 7 on the odometer!!
#1211 of 2544 Overheating. by bill_l
Jul 14, 2002 (1:20 pm)
My 88' 626 is overheating sometimes. There is noleakage from the water pump, the radiator seems
not clogged, new thermostat. But I can feel both
the lower and upper rubber coolant hoses are very
stiff when overheating, seems very high pressure
is in the hoses. Can anyone imaging what could
be the problem? The water pump is broken or is
clogged, or other reasons? Any advice will be
appreciate.
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