Last post on Nov 16, 2013 at 8:34 AM
You are in the Mazda 626
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Mazda 626, Sedan
#1115 of 2547 transmission problem on my 626 station
Jun 04, 2002 (10:19 pm)
my name is Andy
I got a 1991 mazda 626 station (not electronic, has a carburetor and choke start) and I have a transmission problem.
the car is not changing gears right, i have it in over drive on and here its supposed to have 4 gears...
but i only changes up to third, fourth gear is not coming up... it does sometimes but not all the time, almost never...
what can the problem be? i wanna take it to the shop but i wanna have an idea first.
can you help me out? do you need more info?
#1116 of 2547 Warped rotors after only 2 months?
Jun 06, 2002 (10:44 am)
I had my current mechanic do all the brakes (i.e., change pads, change shoes, and turn rotors/drums) on the 626 about 2 months ago. He is a 'fix as much as you can, replace as little as possible' kind of guy (meaning, he won't make you buy a new part if he can get a little bit more life out of it), and that's why I like him - I think those are 'true' mechanics.
Anyway, drove 260 miles today (Philly - NYC, NYC - Philly), and noticed the brake pedal pulsating pretty bad when breaking at high speeds, which means the rotors are likely wraped. My question is, if he turned the rotors only 2 months ago, can they be bad already? Could it be that it would have been wise to replace them instead of turning them?
Jun 06, 2002 (12:52 pm)
I have 1998 626 4 cyl auto. I have about 39500 miles and my extended warranty expires 07/08/02. With all the transmission problems noted in this discussion I am wanting to know if I should purchase an extended warranty (as I cant afford to trade it in)?
Previous history CV boot and axel replaced after 300 miles, took 4 times to dealer to get that fixed. Have taken it for A/C problem 3 out of 4 Texas summers. And CEL has came on twice in last month, in which they replaced a master flow sensor (the light has come on & back off since).
Am I being paranoid? Thanks!
Jun 07, 2002 (10:07 am)
Yes it would probably be a good idea if you can get one for a reasonable price. It may cost more over all, but if you want peace of mind and a certain budgeted expense they are nice. If you are disciplined and save up for the larger repairs it will be cheaper. I save $100/month per vehicle for repairs. Any left over makes a nice down payment on the next one.
The auto tranny situation may be significant enough for you to want to extend further for peace of mind. If you have absolutely no problem, then you might be fine if you do the procedure listed below and save money.
I would completely flush your transmission fluid and add Lubegard (can get in NAPA stores)in the correct proportions for transmission damage prevention. Worked well in both my and my son's Mazdas. He waited until 65K before changing, and suffered some damage shifting between first and second gear, but since it wasn't severe Lubegard seems to be working OK after a complete tranny fluid replacement.
I do a drain and fill every 2 years or 15K with Lubegard, as per my specialists recommendations and have absolutely no problems. I have 125K on my 1991.
If you haven't changed spark plugs and PCV valve yet I would recommend that for the CEL. Oxy sensors are a maintence item at 60K (my Mazda specialist mechanic lets them go on longer if the CEL doesn't come on.)
Jun 07, 2002 (11:28 am)
Thanks for the info mrdealer!
#1121 of 2547 Oxygen sensors
Jun 08, 2002 (7:50 pm)
...continuing post #1046
Finally did it. Replaced the 2 oxygen sensors on my 93 ES with $65 Bosch ones. It was easier than I thought. Instructions from the site mentioned by irishchemist helped a lot.
Check engine light still hasn't come on yet... after going on and off for the past 4 years.
When the Autozone guy retrieved the codes, he got one related to the MAF. Does any one has experience with MAF on the V6? I think it uses one which is different from those on the I4.
#1122 of 2547 jskho, the V6 has a VAF...
Jun 09, 2002 (8:41 am)
The V6 has a Volume Airflow Sensor. It is a rubber 'cone' that gets pushed more or less depending on the ammount of air going through it.
Now, in the 93 there is no code that says 'MAF is borken' (or 'O2 sensor is broken', for that matter). The codes point to things like rich or lean mixtures that cannot be corrected by the computer, and usually they are associated with O2 sensors or MAF (VAF in your case). Codes that point to O2 sensors could apply to a MAF also (i.e., both have to do with the air/fuel mixture, so both will give you errors associated with air/fuel ratios being fouled up).
Now, in my case, my mechanic first read the codes for me (for free...), and told me, 'er, yeah, change the O2 sensor...', and the problem came back. Then I learned to read the codes on my 626, and got a '181', which means 'Adaptive lean limit reached'. This is, the fuel mixture is rich, and there's nothing the computer can do about it. It could be due to the O2 sensor not trimming the mixture, or the MAF not mettering enough air, but it could also be that the plugs are fouled, and both the MAF and O2 sensors are doing what they are supposed to be doing (after all, the idea of the sensors is not to have them die and make our lifes miserable, but telling us that the car is not doing as it should).
In any case, my problem was the plugs (two were fouled due to a leaky valve cover gasket), and that was causing a rich mixture. I did clean MAF and also changed O2 sensor (oh, well, it was fun...). The CEL has not come on for ~ a month now.
Wow. This posting went a bit long. In any case, I wanted to remind you of something: Make sure that you reset the computer (disconnect -ve battery cable and leave a dooe open for 10 minutes), otherwise the codes will still be there...
Jun 09, 2002 (8:59 am)
Another post related to CELs/sensors/emissions. Last week I went to get my inspection/smog check done.
I got really POed when the guy came back and said that I needed wipers, and that I had a hole in the middle exhaust pipe (they one that has the pre-silencer - ovbiuosly, it had to be the expensive one). They would not do the emission test with that hole there, and they would not even do it if I took it home and patched it up. So I allowed them to fix that (the price of the part, 158, is OK, I checked on the web), and since I did not want to come back after getting wipers, I allowed them to put $5 wipers and charge me $12 for them (yeah, I know, I should have changed the stupid wipers before even going).
In any case, the 626 with 81K passed emissions with flying colors. All the results were below 25% of the allowed maximums.
Now, I came home and looked at the pipe they installed. It drops downwards as bit right after the pre-silencer, not as the original part that was flushed against the car. It looks as if the part is that way (i.e., it does have a bend after the pre0silencer and it wasn't miss-installed). The drop is not as bad as the one I see every time I'm behind a camry (have you ever noticed they have a crooked pipe droping down like 10 inches?), but...
Now a question. Should this thing be flushed against the bottom of the car, or was my original pipe banged against the car and the new one just looks different? My worry is that the guy could not find the part for the L4 and got the one for the V6 and just rammed it in, or something along those lines.
#1124 of 2547 Codes on the V6
Jun 10, 2002 (9:06 am)
irishalchemist, you are right, it should be VAF, not MAF.
The V6 uses codes which are different from the I4 though. These are 2 digit codes and there are only about 20 of them. And they point to the component you need to replace/repair. One of the codes I have is 17 and according to http://home.golden.net/~trinity/malf/malfcode.htm
you recommended, it is LO2S inversion error.
Anyway, after I reset the code, the VAF one hasn't shown up yet. Let's hope it remins that way 'cause the VAF is a $600 part.