Last post on Oct 17, 2006 at 7:05 AM
You are in the Honda Civic
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Honda Civic, Honda Civic del Sol, Honda Civic CRX, Coupe, Hatchback, Sedan
May 27, 2005 (7:01 pm)
I have a manual 1991 Honda Civic Hatchback SI, I bought the car used with 177,000 miles on it, its a 5-speed engine. The engine shakes very badly, I tried putting new oil, PVC Valve but nothing helped, Does anybody know what might be the problem here? also, there is sometimes smoke coming from where you check the oil. also, i think the battery is about 6 years old so if changing the battery, do you think it would stop the shaking? so if anybody can help me out of why the engine shakes please do, thanks...
#3841 of 5207 Re: Shaking Engine [91_honda_civic]
May 28, 2005 (3:29 am)
I have a Honda Civic which is almost 7 years old. It only has 9000 miles on it. I drive it infrequently because I live in Washington, DC and take the metro ie., trains. The car is in, I think, perfect condition. It has the original tires on the car and it looks like they have plenty of thread. I am thinking about taking a long trip. I have been reading some reports that tires should be replaced after 6 years regardless of the mileage on the tire and how much tread it has. Should I have my original tires that came with the car replaced?
#3842 of 5207 Re: transmission fluid level 98 civic manual-how to check [stevek75]
May 28, 2005 (9:37 am)
This is kind of a tricky one.....It will be near the bottom on the left hand side looking at the front of the vehicle. What you actually have to do is open up the drain plug which is a bolt horizontally attached to the transmission. Then feel in there to see if the oil is filled to the bottom of that hole. If it is then you are fine! There is no dipstick on a manual though like there is on an automatic.
#3843 of 5207 Re: Shaking Engine [stan9]
May 28, 2005 (9:39 am)
I would recommend listening to this report. Over time rubber tends to dry out and eventually start to rot. They may not hold up on a long trip. For your own safety spend the extra $200 or so and get em replaced!
#3844 of 5207 96 Civic Power Window failure
May 29, 2005 (5:05 pm)
I searched this discussion thread and did not find this topic. A couple weeks ago, all four Power Windows on my 1996 Civic EX Sedan failed at the same time. (Fortunately in the full up position). Neither does any of the driver door switches work, nor the window lock on the driver door. Since failure, I've checked, rechecked, and rotated all identified fuses under the dash, and under the hood. I've swapped relays under the hood too. Nothing changes the simple symptom, i.e. the switches do not lower the windows. There is no sound, suggesting any motors are attempting to lower stuck windows, nothing. It seems to me this must be some problem in a point of common electrical control, but I can't find it. I should add the sun roof works fine. As the weather in PA finally seems to be getting warm, I sure wish I could open a window. I do have A/C, but I prefer fresh air.
I have been advised that there may be a relay, or fuse, or switch problem inside the driver side door. I'd be willing to take the inside door panel off, but experience tells me it is easier to do if you know the right sequence to remove a couple screws, and pop the trim clips, and I don't.
I'd appreciate either of:
1) Advice regarding possible power window repair ideas
2) Advice for removing the drivers side door panel to look for/at any switch/fuse/relay inside there.
#3845 of 5207 Re: New 2005 Honda Civic problem [civic_vp]
May 30, 2005 (10:09 am)
I bought a 2002 Honda Civic 3 years ago, new. I have experienced the same or similar problem three times. The first time I thought the floor mat might be the problem and threw it out but it has happened twice again, most recently yesterday. The first two times I had just started the engine and put it in reverse while my foot was on the brake; the engine suddenly went into high rpm and lurched backwards, only restrained by pressing hard on the brakes. After restarting the engine, everything was normal. Yesterday, exiting the freeway, I braked for the ramp which should have (and probably did) disengage the cruise control. Suddenly the engine roared; I braked very hard and glanced at the tachometer and saw it was revving to about 3000 rpm. I continued to brake hard, put it into neutral and turned off the ignition, then immediately restarted it to get out of traffic. Scares the you-know-what out of me. I'll be taking the car to the dealer later this week if I can get off work long enough,but your experience with the dealer leaves me pessimistic.
#3846 of 5207 shaking engine
May 31, 2005 (5:41 am)
engine vibrations are often engine mounts or the car can't process it's oxigen fuel mixture. Check the air filter to see if the car can breathe, after that if you have done a basic tune-up (new pvc valve, spark plugs&wires, new cap and roter for your distributer, oil change, fluid check, ect... Look at the rubber mounts that hold your engine to the car. After all that I would suggest a shop because there are too many possibilities, bad tires, shaking while stopping would be the disc brakes telling you the roters need to be machined, pretty cheap. Clogged fuel filter would cause mostly sputtering and hesitation when accellerating, don't care about spelling, just trying to help
#3847 of 5207 spinning engine
May 31, 2005 (5:49 am)
I've had the same problem, and got a little creative with electrical grease. I have a fuel inj. 1988 and the only thing that worked for me was starter spray 4 seconds streight down the choke and the ignighter is located in the distributer and I put a pea sized amount of electrical grease where the knob sticks out inside the distributer directly above the roter to help the electrical current and after a few spins, o.k. maybe more than a few, it finally kicked over. I also put the grease where your supposed to put it, on the ends of my spark plug wires. whatever helps...
#3848 of 5207 Re: RPM's [tm_silence]
May 31, 2005 (6:00 am)
I got both alternators at Napa Autoparts....My alternator was not cheap $300+ being that it is only a one year alternator for that car. Both alternators were tested at the shop and passed, the first one lasted about 2 1/2 weeks before it failed. The guy at the shop said it was charging then discharging. I'm accelerating normally, it just doesn't seem to be going into gear as it should be. It goes into 1st and 2nd gear fine, but after that, the needle just bounces up an down when breaking. When I break it drops from 2,500 to 1,000 and kinda jumps to 1,500 while still decreasing in speed. If it is computer or mechanical related is it an expensive thing to fix? The car is only four years old. My warrenty ended too...would it be cheaper for me to get another warrenty with Honda, or should I just take it to a shop?
It is diffuclt to diagnose ofver the internet, but I can suggest you try Honda OEM Alernator. Try online parts shops, like HandA and Fair Honda. You would have to call them for the price on the part, but it will be cheaper than your local dealer. Honda designed the 7th generation alternators to be "free wheeling" when battery is 100-85% charged. The "freewheeling" is achieved through the voltage regulator, which I believe is built into the alternator. I am not sure if aftermarket replacements have the same circuitry as OEM.
As far as the tranny goes. Is it manual or Auto? Sounds like Auto going through the "grade logic" algorithm. The car is basically downshifting like a manual would, to assist in braking.
#3849 of 5207 Timing Belt Replacement on "96 Honda Civic
Jun 01, 2005 (9:51 am)
The shop manual calls for a special tool to hold the crank shaft pulley while loosening the bolt to remove the pulley. Is there a better way? Is the special tool really necessary? Is this tool readily available?