Last post on Oct 17, 2006 at 7:05 AM
You are in the Honda Civic
What is this discussion about?
Honda Civic, Honda Civic del Sol, Honda Civic CRX, Coupe, Hatchback, Sedan
Jan 03, 2005 (4:18 am)
Go on the "net" and search under;--- "Chrysler Dodge Durango Issues". Hit "enter" and you will have hours of reading! Your are correct about Toyota, but VW also has an issue. 3,000 miles is the limit for most vehicles with regards to oil and filter changes. Some engines like the 2.7 could benefit from 2,000 mile service intervals and synthetic oil. In addition, an engine oil cooler might also help with regards to this 2.7 engine problem. Honda's 5,000 or 10,000 mile oil change interval is a "pipe dream"! Engine oil is used to lubricate, clean, cool and seal the engine. Clean oil does a "great job", dirty / contaminated oil does not perform properly. Many auto manufacturers are not honoring their warranty if "sludge" is found in the engine, (even if the oil change intervals as stated in the "owner's manual" were followed). They blame the issue on "owner neglect". Their position is that; ----- if your operating conditions were that severe, you should have changed your oil sooner than stated in the manual. In addition, you as the owner better have all you service receipts if you want warranty service. This is why I let my Honda dealer perform all the preventive maintenance on our 2003 Accord and 2004 Civic. To put it simply, it is their oil, their filters and their technicians doing the service. I change the oil and filter at 3,000 miles rather than at 5,000 or 10,000 miles. If this engine should develop "sludge", it is not my problem. Should a problem occur on a trip, all my service records could be accessed through the Honda Computer network. It makes my life "stupid / simple"! I have always received excellent service from our dealer. To date we have owned five Honda vehicles, starting with a 1997 Accord. I believe that Honda makes an outstanding product, but like any vehicle, it needs a "state of the art preventive maintenance program" to keep it running in a "like new condition"!
Jan 03, 2005 (6:18 am)
Before this goes on another "oil" tangent, let me remind everyone (once again!) that this topic is strictly about Honda Civic problems and solutions. If you wish to discuss any other make/model, please do so in its designated topic, which you can find by using the search function.
Jan 03, 2005 (8:16 am)
..."Honda's 5,000 or 10,000 mile oil change interval is a "pipe dream"! "...
My take is more like: the 3k oil changes are more like belt and suspenders type of "dreaming"
Lets just put it this way, Honda is not above trying to deny REMOTE engine warranty claims within the meager warranty period of 3 years/ 36,000 miles.
Thankfully, Honda DOES NOT unlike some of Toyota's have engines that operate at temperatures that literally "COOK" the oil, that will over time cause coking. The real long term answer is redesign those engines that operate OUT of the heat range the oil is designed to run. Since Toyota's warranty is 3 years or 36,000 miles, and they really DID/do NOT want to redesign it or recall them, their answer is to change the oil more often, which does ABSOLUTELY NOTHING about the oil "cooking" and then coking. They basically cover the real PITA people with the "secret" warranty.
While I understand the host/hostess wants to stay on topic, to me it is pretty germane in that I was pretty sour about certain Toyota's from my own experiences with the Toyota Camry 1985 at app the 75,000 mile mark. So this is by no means a new problem. (2005-1985)=20 years.
I changed oil religiously between 2,500-3,000 miles(Catrol GTX). This of course did NOTHING to stop the massive coking. The neatest thing from Toyota's point of view is at 36,001 ANY engine repairs are now on YOUR nickel. So at app 75,000 miles when a part of the engine failed and let all the oil stream out they steadfastly stuck to their position that the warranty was indeed up. As they began the tear down procedure to assess the damage, it was more than easy to see the engine was massively coked up. Just this portion of the repairs started off at 1,500 and then ended up at app 2700 dollars.
Needless to say I was not very pleased. I have to say however in all fairness, they did invoke the "secret warranty". (Perhaps I met their criterion for being a PITA. ) Unbeknownst to me this model also had brake pad and rotor and suspension problems. They at no charge replaced the brake pads, rotors, springs, shocks, and struts, etc.
I also at the time had a Honda Accord manual transmission that in effect ran like a top, but I did get rid of it also, due to guilt by association of being a 4 cylinder engine. : ( .
Upshot is this is a round about way of saying for a number of years I would not go near these belt driven 4 cylinder engines!
So the upshot is 1. don't get the engines that cook oil and then coke 2. Honda Civic (the one I have) does not have the engines that do this 3. I am good to go to 9/10k on ExxonMobil Superflo5w20 or to 20,000 after the meager warranty period of 3 years/36,000 miles with Mobil One 0w20.
#3361 of 5207 new radiator?
Jan 03, 2005 (9:14 am)
Hi everyone, and happy new year!
I have a 1995 very basic Civic Hatchback DX, no power steering, manual drive. Overall it is in very good shape and I do take good care of it (this a 'previously owned' car). But I found out the radiator has a "slight leak" and it will cost more than $500 to replace it. I looked into buying a Honda radiator for my model and found one online for a pretty good price, but the garage I use refuses to install it. I know that having a perfect radiator is of critical importance, but I also don't have more than $500 to replace it right now. It's winter, does that help keep the engine cool? Are there any effective, short-term solutions? Thank all of you for your help.
Jan 03, 2005 (9:35 am)
Short term, it might be as simple as hose and hose clamps not doing their job. If you have cracks in the radiator it can be spot welded. Not to be the bearer of bad news, for folks have a tendency to shoot the messenger, at the worst:long term, it is just a matter of when you will have to replace it!
So if a radiator costs say 200-250 dollars that means shop time of 250-300 at your areas going rate.(3 hrs app)
I replaced one on a Toyota Landcruiser, after being welded in serveral places and times, but the part wholesale was 399. and it was 200 in labor. The problem occurred at the 12 year mark and very close to 214k miles.
#3363 of 5207 Re: [ruking1]
Jan 03, 2005 (9:47 am)
Thank you for the info. I know the radiator itself has cracks, but that the leaking is not too bad. I didn't mention spot welding, but my mechanic didn't mention spot welding as an option when I asked if there were short-term solutions. I don't drive a lot, but do need a dependable vehicle when I do, and I certainly don't want to kill the motor. And I realize I will have to replace the radiator eventually, but I would like to put it off for a while if I can.
Jan 03, 2005 (10:17 am)
That being true, I would take corrective actions like making sure on a short periodic schedule that the fluids were TOPPED UP. So carry distilled water and antifreeze, or carry premixed (50/50) antifreeze and distilled water. Needless to say, this is not the best solution, but I understand what you are trying to accomplish.
Jan 03, 2005 (11:50 am)
I just purchased 2 cabin filters for my 01 Civic at the outrageous price of $28.30. They are really cheap quality and probably cost 50 cents to make. Any ideas as to low cost solution? How necessary are they?
Jan 03, 2005 (12:04 pm)
Lower cost (19) yes but still low demand makes it pricey.
#3367 of 5207 Re: new radiator? [hatch]
Jan 03, 2005 (12:41 pm)
If you are on a budget, the first thing that I would do is buy a container of radiator "stop leak" for about $5 at your local automotive parts store. This stuff worked pretty well for older model cars (1980-1990's)-haven't tried it on newer model cars.