Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2

3583 messages,  Last post on Apr 02, 2012 at 3:00 PM

You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum.

What is this discussion about? Engine, Oil

#3577 of 3583 Change filter? by imidazol97

Nov 25, 2011 (8:37 am)

Shipo and others?
 
I have a 2008 Cobalt with 35000 miles. The oil has been in for 1 year and 3,000 miles. The oil is Pennzoil Platinum synthetic 5w-30 and the filter is a PureOne filter.
 
Should I change the filter or just put in fresh oil--GM requires oil change every 1 year.
 
Most driving was 80 mile trips on interstate and 6 mile commutes to his job downtown Columbus. Very little was short trip driving.

#3578 of 3583 Re: Change filter? [imidazol97] by texases

Nov 25, 2011 (9:07 am)

Replying to: imidazol97 (Nov 25, 2011 8:37 am)
I'd change the filter, too, just to simplify my life. No need to remember any details, oil and filter once/year. If you're going through a change anyway, might as well do the filter for small additional time/cost.
 
As for Ford's 5000 mile recommendation if the OLM fails, it's by necessity a VERY conservative recommendation, suitable for all driving types, including lots of short trips. It doesn't reflect the normal expected life under 'regular duty' conditions.

#3579 of 3583 Re: Change filter? [imidazol97] by roadburner

Nov 25, 2011 (9:25 am)

Replying to: imidazol97 (Nov 25, 2011 8:37 am)
I'd run Pennzoil Platinum(or any other quality synthetic) for 2 years if warranty coverage wasn't a concern. That's what I do with my Jeep Wrangler.

#3580 of 3583 Re: Did you see this article here? [thecardoc3] by roadburner

Nov 25, 2011 (9:27 am)

Replying to: thecardoc3 (Nov 25, 2011 4:32 am)
Every oil analysis I have ever sent out has come back with levels exceeding normal amounts of wear, much of which is typically aggravated by the bypass valve in the filter (or the block in some cases) as having been forced open when the filter became too heavily loaded and therefore unfiltered oil was circulating.
 
That has been the exact opposite of my experience, but then I maintain all my vehicles to a high standard.
 
When a customers car comes in the door with no oil showing on the dipstick and subsequently getting to watch maybe two quarts draining from the pan and even with it being warm/hot it's still clearly thicker than what is supposed to be in there, exactly how does an oil analysis tell anything that experience hasn't already observed?
 
If you are dealing with the typical moronic car owner on a daily basis -fortunately I don't have to- then I would agree. However, that situation is entirely different from the case of a conscientious owner who wants to monitor the mechanical health of his/her car's engine and wants to determine an optimum OCI.

#3581 of 3583 Re: Change filter? [imidazol97] by shipo

Nov 25, 2011 (9:35 am)

Replying to: imidazol97 (Nov 25, 2011 8:37 am)
Change it. Why? Unless I miss my guess, you're still in the warranty period.

#3582 of 3583 Remote oil filter leak 2001 gmc jimmy by stvtom1

Apr 02, 2012 (9:20 am)

I have heard that the compression fittings that leak can be cut off and the hoses repaired with compression clamps. Any one have any thoughts on this?
Thanks
Stvtom1

#3583 of 3583 Re: Remote oil filter leak 2001 gmc jimmy [stvtom1] by texases

Apr 02, 2012 (3:00 pm)

Replying to: stvtom1 (Apr 02, 2012 9:20 am)
Whatever you're clamping the hose onto has to have some kind of bump or 'barb' to hold the hose on with the clamp. Just clamping the hose onto a straight tube isn't a good idea.
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