Last post on Apr 02, 2012 at 3:00 PM
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#3576 of 3583 Re: Did you see this article here? [thecardoc3]
Nov 25, 2011 (6:57 am)
The presence of a bypass valve and the activation of said valve are two very different issues. Per a study done by GM in the late 1990s (which I read while I was at Mercedes), the only oil change (on a healthy engine) where the filter has a chance of becoming clogged to the point of activating the bypass valve is the very first following engine manufacture. Given how high the manufacturing tolerances have become since then, my bet is that even the first oil change interval is no longer sufficient to cause enough particulate matter to be trapped in the filter element to cause bypass activation.
So, why bother including a bypass at all? Once again per the GM study; the bypass valve is routinely activated when the oil temperatures are extremely cold following a cold start (and varies by oil temperature, oil type, and age of filter). Once the oil starts warming up the valve closes and the oil once again flows through the filter element. Given the oil flowing through the bypass is already well filtered, a few minutes of unfiltered flow is completely irrelevant in regards to long term engine life.
Nov 25, 2011 (8:37 am)
Shipo and others?
I have a 2008 Cobalt with 35000 miles. The oil has been in for 1 year and 3,000 miles. The oil is Pennzoil Platinum synthetic 5w-30 and the filter is a PureOne filter.
Should I change the filter or just put in fresh oil--GM requires oil change every 1 year.
Most driving was 80 mile trips on interstate and 6 mile commutes to his job downtown Columbus. Very little was short trip driving.
#3578 of 3583 Re: Change filter? [imidazol97]
Nov 25, 2011 (9:07 am)
I'd change the filter, too, just to simplify my life. No need to remember any details, oil and filter once/year. If you're going through a change anyway, might as well do the filter for small additional time/cost.
As for Ford's 5000 mile recommendation if the OLM fails, it's by necessity a VERY conservative recommendation, suitable for all driving types, including lots of short trips. It doesn't reflect the normal expected life under 'regular duty' conditions.
#3579 of 3583 Re: Change filter? [imidazol97]
Nov 25, 2011 (9:25 am)
I'd run Pennzoil Platinum(or any other quality synthetic) for 2 years if warranty coverage wasn't a concern. That's what I do with my Jeep Wrangler.
#3580 of 3583 Re: Did you see this article here? [thecardoc3]
Nov 25, 2011 (9:27 am)
Every oil analysis I have ever sent out has come back with levels exceeding normal amounts of wear, much of which is typically aggravated by the bypass valve in the filter (or the block in some cases) as having been forced open when the filter became too heavily loaded and therefore unfiltered oil was circulating.
That has been the exact opposite of my experience, but then I maintain all my vehicles to a high standard.
When a customers car comes in the door with no oil showing on the dipstick and subsequently getting to watch maybe two quarts draining from the pan and even with it being warm/hot it's still clearly thicker than what is supposed to be in there, exactly how does an oil analysis tell anything that experience hasn't already observed?
If you are dealing with the typical moronic car owner on a daily basis -fortunately I don't have to- then I would agree. However, that situation is entirely different from the case of a conscientious owner who wants to monitor the mechanical health of his/her car's engine and wants to determine an optimum OCI.
#3581 of 3583 Re: Change filter? [imidazol97]
Nov 25, 2011 (9:35 am)
Change it. Why? Unless I miss my guess, you're still in the warranty period.
#3582 of 3583 Remote oil filter leak 2001 gmc jimmy
Apr 02, 2012 (9:20 am)
I have heard that the compression fittings that leak can be cut off and the hoses repaired with compression clamps. Any one have any thoughts on this?
#3583 of 3583 Re: Remote oil filter leak 2001 gmc jimmy [stvtom1]
Apr 02, 2012 (3:00 pm)
Whatever you're clamping the hose onto has to have some kind of bump or 'barb' to hold the hose on with the clamp. Just clamping the hose onto a straight tube isn't a good idea.